Let's Go Europe 2019. Harvard Student Agencies

in soup or boiled. La Štruk gets major bonus points for the picturesque garden terrace hidden around the corner where you can dine under the warm Croatian sun.

       i Strudel from 30 kn

       STARI FIJAKER ($)

      Mesnicka 6; 1 483 3829; starifijaker.hr; open M-Sa 11am-10pm, Su 11am-9pm

      If Zagreb were Pawnee and restaurants were people, Stari Fijaker would be Ron Swanson: unapologetically traditional, meat loving, and a little over-the-top—but we aren’t complaining. Stari Fijaker will care for your physical, emotional, and spiritual (yes spiritual) needs, with its large portions of hearty Balkan food, comfortable chairs, and large crucifix. (Who doesn’t need a bit more Jesus in their life after a week of partying on the Croatian coast?) The menu, with English translations, consists of traditional dishes such as shepherds stew: think goulash with gnocchi, which clearly shows the historical influences on local gastronomy due to its location between Hungary and Italy.

       i Entrées from 80 kn

       BISTROTEKA ($$)

      Nikole Tesle 14; 1 483 7711; www.bistroteka.hr; open M-Th 8:30am-midnight, F-Sa 8:30am-1am

      Bistroteka is the incarnation of the word “aesthetic.” We’re talking exposed brick, faux majolica floors, and chalkboard walls. Even better than the aesthetic are the reasonably priced starters (30 kuna). Perhaps even more impressive than that is the multi-functionality of the place. Brunch spot? Check. Café? Check. Bar? Dinners, lunches, birthday cakes? Check, check, check, and check. If only we could multitask as efficiently, and deliciously, as Bistroteka.

       i Starters and sandwiches from 30 kn, meat entrées from 100 kn

      COGITO COFFEE SHOP ($)

      Varšavska 11; www.cogitocoffee.com; open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa 9am-7pm Ditch the ubiquitous street cafés of central Zagreb for the holy grail of coffee. Welcome to Cogito, the pilgrimage destination of in-the-know Zagrebian hipsters, yuppies, and the otherwise cool. This coffee bar is the brainchild of Cogito Coffee Roasters, a 2014 startup dedicated to bringing quality, in-house roasted coffee to the Croatian capital. As you enjoy your artisanal flat white, elderflower juice, or homemade iced tea, don’t be jarred by the seemingly eclectic décor: modern art, a vintage map of Africa, and a potted plant. We admit this is a bit over-the-top, but there is additional seating in a non-decorated exterior courtyard.

       i Coffee from 10 kn, cappuccino from 14 kn

       NIGHTLIFE

       A MOST UNUSUAL GARDEN ($)

      Horcanska 3; 091 464 6900; open daily 8am-midnight

      A sculpture of an octopus with a giant cucumber in a bathtub is the first thing you’ll see at A Most Unusual Garden. This bar is truly unlike anything else in Zagreb, or the world for that matter. Part-gin bar, part-treehouse, part-wall murals, this joint, frequented by locals, will make you feel like you’re a character in Alice in Wonderland. Aside from the steampunk décor, there is a large outdoor seating area with steps, tables, and you guessed it, a treehouse—all underneath string lights and empty bottles of gin lit with candles. i No cover, drinks from 20 kn

       CLUB ROKO

      Jarunska 5; 097 659 2000; open daily 8pm-3am

      “You can go there, but they play trashy Croatian pop from the 90s,” said the university students. “If you want to get lit on a Wednesday, it’s the only place,” said our bartender. “It’s the sole club in the area,” confirmed a stranger on the street. And they were all right. Club Roko, a locals-only joint south of the city center, gets going around 1am on weekday nights. No worries if you don’t speak Croatian; with live music and the entire club belting out the chorus, you’ll learn fast. Those willing to brave the smoke-filled interior will be rewarded with an authentic Zagreb experience and clothes that smell like a chain smoker’s.

       i No cover, drinks from 25 kn

       RAKHIA BAR

      Tkalciceva 45; 098 964 0587; open daily 8am-midnight

      The first word you’ll learn in Croatia is probably rakija. Found throughout the Balkans, it’s the national drink of Croatia. And Rakhia Bar has every type of this brandy imaginable. The plum flavor is the strongest, but our favorite was the walnut. But, with over fifty options, why not find your personal pick? Just not too many, otherwise the steampunk interior might make your stomach turn. If all fails and Rakhia Bar is full, try out Bar 45 or the many other options on Tkalciceva Street.

       i No cover, shots from 11 kn

       TOLKIEN’S HOUSE

      Opatovina 49; 1 485 2050; open daily 8am-midnight

      A pub with walls covered in swords, maps of Middle Earth, and maces? Now that’s what we’re Tolkien about. Note: do not confuse Tolkien’s House with a hobbit house. For those, you’ll have to go to New Zealand. But, if a small pub with lots of Lord of the Rings paraphernalia and a solid selection of beers sounds like a good alternative, check it out on Opatovina ul., the cooler and more local cousin of the main bar drag, Tkalciceva ul.

       i No cover, beers from 20 kn

      CROATIA ESSENTIALS

       VISAS

      Croatia is a member of the European Union. Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the US, and many other non-EU countries do not need a visa for stays of up to 90 days. Citizens of other EU countries may enter Croatia with only their national identity cards. Passports are required for everyone else. Despite being part of the EU, Croatia is not in the Schengen Area, however holders of a Schengen visa are allowed to visit Croatia for up to 90 days without the need of an additional visa.

       MONEY

      Despite being a member of the EU, Croatia is not in the Eurozone and uses the Croatian kuna (HRK or kn) as its currency.

      Tipping: Tipping is not always expected, but often appreciated in Croatia. For bars and cafés, tips are not expected, but it is common to round up the bill. So, if the bill comes to 18 kn, leave 20 kn. Tipping in restaurants is much more common, and you should tip your server about 10% and 15% for really exceptional service. Taxi drivers also do not expect tips, but customers generally round up the bill.

       SAFETY AND HEALTH

      Drugs and Alcohol: The minimum age to purchase alcohol in Croatia is 18, though technically there is no minimum age to drink alcohol (cheers!). Remember to drink responsibly and to never drink and drive. The legal blood alcohol content (BAC) for driving in Croatia is under 0.05%, significantly lower than the US limit of 0.08%.

      Travelers with Disabilities: Croatia is largely not wheelchair accessible, as many of the sights require climbing stairs to reach the main attraction and elevators are not often provided. Streets themselves in Croatia often do not lend themselves to wheelchair travel, as they are not evenly paved and many are cobbled.

      BGLTQ+ Travelers: Homosexuality has been legal in Croatia since 1977. It is also illegal to discriminate on the basis of sexuality and production of homophobic material can result in up to one year of imprisonment. There is still controversy, however, and homosexuality is still not widely accepted. Public displays of affection