Let's Go Europe 2019. Harvard Student Agencies

not giant, but large enough to substitute for leg day at the gym) topped with a cross and the Croatian flag. The heavily forested area offers splendid views as you huff and puff and blow your house down… or just breath heavily while working off a week’s worth of risotto. Pro tip: bring water and food as after Teraca Vidilica, there is only one water pump and nowhere to purchase sustenance. The stairs to the park are located on the western side of Split; just keep going uphill and you’ll get there eventually, we promise.

       i Free; no wheelchair accessibility

       BACVICE BEACH

      Šetalište Petra Preradovica 5; open daily 24hr

      This is the most popular beach in Split due to its convenient location and over 20 feet of clear knee-deep water. More importantly, it’s also the home of picigin, a game of group hacky sack played with a racquetball that will put your family beach volleyball tournaments to shame. The falls of players here are more dramatic than an Italian soccer player trying to get his opponent a red card. The beach is also blue flag certified, meaning it’s one of the cleanest in Europe. At night, the many bars and restaurants on the beach come to life with parties in the high season lasting until the wee hours of the morning.

       i Free; wheelchair accessible

       FOOD

       KONOBA GREGO LEVANTE ($$$)

      Radovanova 2; 021 488 488; www.pizzeriabakra.com; open daily 9am-11pm

      Grego Levante should really make their own rendition of the classic “What Would I Do For A Klondike Bar” jingle, because we would seriously do some crazy shit for anything on the menu here. This is the food you will dream about, Instagram about, and then dream about again. What’s not to like with an emphasis on fresh and local ingredients, the friendliest servers in Split, and prices better than competitors. The menu focuses on specialties of the region such as pastičada, a typical meat dish with gnocchi.

       i Entrées from 60 kn

       ARTICOK ($$)

      Bana Josipa Jelacica 19; 095 670 0004; open M-Th 9am-11pm, F-Sa 9am-midnight

      Artichoke puns aside, there are art puns. The interior walls of this restaurant are covered in murals that would fit perfectly in a modern art museum. Adding to the cultured theme is the jazz music that’s as smooth as the tomato sauce they put on their oh-so-good homemade gnocchi. Prices are slightly lower compared to the bland tourist trap restaurants in Diocletian’s Palace, but what makes Articok a gem is a more authentic gastronomic experience that includes dishes outside of traditional Dalmatian cuisine.

       i Entrées from 60 kn

       LUKA ICE CREAM & CAKES ($)

      Ul. kralja petra svacica 2; 091 908 0678; open daily 9am-midnight With the exception of Gelateria Spalato, the quality of ice cream in the rest of Split pales in comparison to Luka. Luka, however, undoubtedly takes the cake for the best value with their massive (and we mean massive) scoops. Its charming café vibe and seasonal flavors are also major game changers. If you’re lucky enough to summer in Split, enjoy your ice cream at an outdoor shop around the corner from the main café under the gaze of a giant mural of a Roman emperor. I scream for Luka’s ice cream; et tu, Brute?

       i Scoops 8 kn

      RESTORAN ŠPERUN ($$)

      Šperun ul.; 021 346 999; open daily 9am-11pm

      The Croatia of yesteryear may not survive in the straight-off-the-cruise ship swamped Riva, but it does at Restaurant Sperun, located in the less touristy Varoš neighborhood. The vibe is pure Roman Holiday: checkered tablecloths, old prints, and model ships. Only the bocca della verità hasn’t come out to play. Soups and pastas are well within even the most constrained backpacker’s budget, while splurge options include grilled meats and fish. If Audrey Hepburn doesn’t show up, you can console yourself with the highly recommended zuppa inglese dessert. Either way, you’re #blessed.

       i Soups from 30 kn, pasta from 60 kn, meat and fish entrées from 100 kn

       NIGHTLIFE

       BACVICE

      5 Šetalište Petra Preradovica; 091 883 3710; www.zyhdi-munisi.com/zbirac; open M-Th 7am-1am, F-Sa 7am-2am, Su 7am-1am

      If you go where the night takes you in Split, you’re bound to end up at Bacvice. When all else fails and the downtown bars shut down, Bacvice will be faithfully waiting for you with its clubs and alcohol flowing and going late into the morning. Yes, it’s a bit of a walk from downtown. Yes, the clubs could be a little bit nicer. And yes, it’s easy to fall into the water because the sidewalks don’t have guardrails. But that might not be the worst thing—after a long night of drunken debauchery, there’s nothing like a sunrise swim to cure a hangover.

       i Cocktails from 30 kn

       ACADEMIA GHETTO CLUB

      Dosud 10; 091 197 7790; open Tu-Th 4pm-midnight, F-Sa 5pm-1am, Su 4pm-midnight

      People come here to rage, but not in the all-you-can-drink-pub-crawl kind of way. It’s more like the, “Let’s have stimulating intellectual conversation while dancing and drinking gin” kind of way. Thus, it’s not super surprising that this is one of the few places in Split well stocked with absinthe. Never fear: should absinthe not suit your taste, but another niche alcohol would, go for the specials on Armenian brandy and then head outside to Academia’s spacious courtyard to talk like Hemingway.

       i Beer from 20 kn, cocktails from 50 kn

       CAFFE BAR SKALINA

      Obala Hrv. Nardnog preporoda 20; 021 344 079; open daily 9am-11pm

      Lying on the Riva, Split’s landscaped limestone path that rings the harbor, is a series of bars with overpriced drinks and over-eager tourists. One of those bars is Caffe Bar Skalina. Typical of the variety on the Riva—bars that are slightly less classy than their bougier cousins in France—most drinks are in the 60 kuna range. It wouldn’t be our first choice, but, for the Riva, it does the trick.

       i Drinks from 60 kn, gelato from 30 kn

       PARADOX WINE & CHEESE BAR

      Bana Josipa Jelacica 3; 021 787 778; open daily 8am-midnight

      With a selection of wines that range from the affordable (26 kn) to the ungodly priced (120 kn) per glass, Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar is a great place to test out if you can actually fake your way through a wine tasting. Take this as an opportunity to learn about the rich varieties of Croatian wine, as Paradox’s offerings are arranged by type on the extensive menu. While we’re not whining about the wine selection, the cheese and bread sides can be a bit pricey. Pro tip: this isn’t the place to end your night, but rather a spot to kick it off.

       i Wine from 26 kn, starters from 50 kn

ZAGREB

      Coverage by Gavin Moulton

      Ever wondered what it would be like to live somewhere where everyone was just zen? Look no further than Croatia’s capital: Zagreb, otherwise known as the epicenter of chill. What do the one million inhabitants of Zagreb do for fun? Banter in cafés or hang at bars. We recommend you follow their lead—take part in the laid-back lifestyle as you let your taste buds savor