Let's Go Europe 2019. Harvard Student Agencies

      Dolac 2; 021 742 797; www.hvar-alviz.com; open M-F 6pm-midnight, Sa-Su 6pm-1am

      Is the secret to Alviž’s pizzas in the tomato garden on the terrace? Years of experience? The local water? We’ll never know, but we do know that they quickly churn out pies straight from the oven. Plus, at low prices, it’s a sweet relief from the higher priced seafood and meat that most Hvar Town digs serve. If you’re not feeling pizza tonight, there are plenty of savory entrées at similar prices, such as vegetable risotto and mussels alla Buzara.

       i Entrées from 70 kn, pizza from 50 kn; vegetarian options available

       GURME TAPAS BAR ($$$)

      Ul. Marije Maričić br. 9 predio Groda; 098 192 4150; open daily 6pm-midnight

      Traditional yet cool and trendy, Gurme is kind of like the Justin Trudeau of Croatian tapas bars. Sleek bar lights hang next to legs of ham and antique horseshoes. But just like in politics, you might not get everything you want here: portion sizes are small, although the tapas are relatively inexpensive. There are, however, tasting menus with a glass of wine and multiple tapas that make a better value.

      i Tapas from 20 kn, tapas tasting with wine 70 kn, wine from 30 kn

       RESTAURANT “ROOFTOP LUVIJI” ($$)

      Jurja Novaka 6; 091 519 8444; open daily 6pm-1am

      Since you’ll be paying for overpriced food in Hvar, might as well do it with a view and polka-dotted tablecloths. Rooftop Luviji is located in an alleyway behind the cathedral, which is convenient, but also off the beaten path from the easily spotted restaurants on the Riva and Pijaca. The food is typical and not outstanding, but the real reason to come here is the picturesque view of the fortress and cathedral.

       i Entrées from 100 kn

       NIGHTLIFE

       KIVA BAR

      Fabrika b.b.; 091 512 2343; open daily summer 9pm-2:30am

      We’re pretty sure Croatia is in the EU and even surer that the EU bans smoking inside buildings, but Bar Kiva doesn’t give a shit. Wild stuff happens here. People are packed into small spaces where strangers will grind on you—not out of attraction, but instead by being pushed by other strangers trying to get a drink from the bar. Don’t be surprised to see fiery sparklers, girls dancing on the bar, and spilled alcohol. If you’re looking for an experience akin to fighting your way through a mosh pit, though, look no further than Bar Kiva.

       i No cover, cocktails from 50 kn

       CAFÉ BAR ALOHA

      Fabrika 15; 91 514 27 66; bar open daily 5pm-2am

      Café by day, bar and wannabe club by night, Café Aloha is typical of the nightlife on the Riva. It’s overpriced, there are gimmicky cocktails, and, if you can afford it, you can order literal fishbowls of alcohol. While the bar is acceptable, do not come for the coffee, as they’re the only café in Croatia that didn’t give us water with our cappuccino. We have standards.

       i No cover, cocktails from 50 kn

       CARPE DIEM

      Riva 32; 021 742 369; www.carpe-diem-hvar.com; open daily 9am-2am

      Rain drop, drop top, where that Dom Perignon pop pop? That would be at Carpe Diem, where the luxe yachters come to walk on the literal red carpet and pretend that Hvar is the French Riviera. Drinks are priced accordingly. In high season, the club goes until late in the morning. Outside there is a nice lounge with ridiculously comfy wicker sofas for those who would like a more relaxed party.

      i No cover, drinks from 50 kn; may need reservations in high season

       KONOBA KATARINA

      Kroz Grodu 22; 095 547 5438; open daily 10am-11pm

      This is the Croatian family wine cellar you never had. We’re talking stone floors and ceilings, demijohns, and homemade wooden seating. There are even family photos. The place has old-world vibes, which happens to be our kind of vibes. Though the appetizers are limited and expensive, the glasses of wine are some of the cheapest in Hvar. Enjoy a glass on the steps or inside as you turn back time and savor a quiet, laid-back night on the island.

       i Wine from 8 kn, appetizers from 50 kn

SPLIT

      Coverage by Gavin Moulton

      Thoughts about Balkan cities don’t typically conjure images of palm trees, but then again Split is far from your average Balkan city. There are plenty of Roman monuments to gawk at, cliffs to jump off, and works of art to admire. But, in reality, you don’t need to make much of an effort to enjoy Split. This is a place to do one of two things: relax and party. Split is where everyone goes to pregame for their individual island vacations. That said, let’s be real. If your idea of a good time happens to be dancing at the Ultra music festival or partying on the beach until 6am, Split has much in store for you.

       ORIENTATION

      Split is easily walkable and therefore not really divided into separate regions. If we were to Split it, though, we’d say there are two main parts: Old Town and the waterfront Riva. To be frank though, the entire city could fit inside Diocletian’s Palace, which is front and center in Old Town. Weave through the tiny, compact streets of Old Town Split to uncover all its nooks and crannies, including but not limited to shops, restaurants, and museums. Just south of Old Town lies the renowned Riva, best known for its breathtaking views of the Dalmatian coast and lively nightlife scene. If you’re looking to escape, the neighborhoods flanking Old Town, Veli Varos and Manus, offer a quaint reprieve.

       ESSENTIALS

      GETTING THERE

      If flying, you’ll have to get transport to Split from either Zagreb Airport or Dubrovnik Airport. There are daily flights by Croatia Airlines between these cities and Split. We highly recommend flying from Dubrovnik (or taking a 14hr bus… the choice is yours). From Zagreb, Split is approximately a 7hr bus or train ride. Bus schedules and tickets are available at Zagreb Bus Terminal. The best way to book a train is to look up schedules for Croatia Railways. Split also has a massive ferry port that connects to several Croatian islands; the only international connection is, however, to Italy.

      GETTING AROUND

      The attractions in Split’s Old Town are easily walkable; the streets are so narrow that car or rail travel is impossible and illogical. Public buses connect the Split city center with the suburbs, as well as neighboring cities like Omis (Bus #60) and Trogir (Bus #37). Tickets can be purchased at Tisak kiosks or on the bus.

      PRACTICAL INFORMATION

      Tourist Offices: Main tourist office (Peristil; 02 134 80 74; open M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 8am-8pm)

      Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: ATMs are located throughout the town. There are plenty located on the Riva such as Splitsha Banks ATMs. ATMs in Croatia typically dispense cash in 100 and 200 kn bills, which can get annoying.

      Post Offices: Papandopulova Ul. 1; 02 134 80 74; open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa 7am-1pm

      Internet: There are several cafés with free Wi-Fi in Split. There are other public hotspots like the Riva and Fish Market.

      BGLTQ+ Resources: LGBT Center Split (Ul. kralja Tomislava 8; 91 620 8990)

      EMERGENCY