Mountain Walking in Mallorca. Paddy Dillon

ELM, ES CAPDELLÀ, CALVIÀ, GALILEA AND PUIGPUNYENT

      Approching the village of Galilea, with Puig de Galatzó beyond (Walk 10)

      High on na Pòpia, looking towards the lighthouse on Cap de Llebeig (Walk 1)

      The western extremity of Mallorca contains the sizeable town of Andratx, the lovely village of s’Arracó, the bustling resort of Port d’Andratx and the quiet little seaside village of Sant Elm. The mountains are small and never reach as high as 500m (1640ft), and while they are quite rugged, they are also criss-crossed with paths and tracks that allow most parts to be explored. A ruined Trappist monastery occupies a remote valley in the mountains, proving to be a popular attraction for walkers (Walk 3). The cliff coastline is formidable, although there are beaches and rocky coves that are fairly easy to access. Sant Elm offers a ferry connection with the splendid island of sa Dragonera (Walk 1), which looks like a miniature mountain range.

      Higher and more remote mountains rise further inland, with Mola de s’Esclop (Walks 4–6) and Puig de Galatzó (Walks 7–9) being particularly prominent; the latter rising to 1027m (3369ft). In recent years, the extensive estate of Finca Galatzó was made public, allowing both mountains to be climbed from a beautiful valley. In earlier years, they were usually climbed from another public estate, Son Fortuny above Estellencs. Motorists who climb these mountains often have to retrace steps to their cars, but walkers who use buses can traverse both mountains and finish far from where they started.

      Other fine walks include one from the town of Calvià to the hilltop village of Galilea (Walk 10), with an option to continue to Puigpunyent. (There is a route from Galilea to Puig de Galatzó.) Another route from Puigpunyent climbs the old mountain road of Camí Vell d’Estellencs, descending along the old Camí de Superna to return to Puigpunyent (Walk 11).

WALK 1

      sa Dragonera

Start/Finish	Calo Lladó, sa Dragonera
Distance	20.5km (12¾ miles)
Total ascent/descent	620m (2035ft)
Time	6hrs
Terrain	Mostly old roads and tracks, with easy paths, despite the steep slopes
Map	Alpina Tramuntana Sud
Refreshment	Plenty of choice at Sant Elm, drinks available on the Margarita ferry
Transport	Buses serve Sant Elm from Andratx and Port d’Andratx. For the Margarita ferry, tel [phone] or 639 617 545. For the WaterTaxi, tel [phone]. The Bergantin and Jumbo II offer day-trips only.

      The island of sa Dragonera can only be seen from the western parts of Mallorca. It appears as a dragon-back ridge with a sharp edge and rocky peaks. It has been protected as a natural park since 1995 and is currently equipped with four trails that allow a thorough exploration – although walking all of them in a day is a big undertaking. Countless numbers of lizards will dash out of your way all day!

      

      Cala Lladó is the start and finish of the walk on sa Dragonera

      Buses serving Sant Elm stop on the Plaça de na Caragola, where a very short walk leads down to the ferry landing. The landing on sa Dragonera is at Cala Lladó. Walk up to the information centre and spare a few moments to learn about the natural history of the island, and to study maps showing the layout of the trails. These are numbered from 1 to 4 and are signposted at crucial junctions. This walk takes in all four trails, but it can be shortened, making a good excuse to return for another trip.

       Itinerari 1 – na Miranda – 1.2km circular

       Itinerari 2 – Far de Tramuntana – 1.7km one-way

       Itinerari 3 – Far de Llebeig – 4.5km one-way

       Itinerari 4 – Far Vell – 3.8km one-way

      Leave the information centre to reach a point where tracks intersect and signposts list all the trails and destinations. Turn left to follow itineraris 3 and 4 along an old tarmac road, later passing a gate, turning a sharp bend, then reaching a junction and another signpost. Turn right for itinerari 4 to Far Vell, walking up a stony track and passing through a gateway at es Tancat. The winding track climbs, passing a little house and eventually reaching the gap of Coll Roig; a viewpoint at 98m (322ft).

      Keep climbing and an amazing, tightly zigzagging path rises at a gentle gradient, despite the steepness of the bushy slope. It reaches the crumbling lighthouse of Far Vell, on the summit of na Pòpia, at 349m (1145ft).

      A watchtower was constructed on na Pòpia in 1581, and then demolished in 1850 to make way for the lighthouse of Far Vell, which was in a poor position as it was sometimes obscured by mist. In 1910 two more lighthouses, Far de Llebeig and Far de Tramuntana (see below), were built and Far Vell was allowed to fall into ruins.

      Admire the length of the island and the cliff coast of western Mallorca, then retrace steps all the way down to the old tarmac road. If time is limited, turn left to return to Calo Lladó.

      Turn right along the road, as signposted for itinerari 3 to Far de Llebeig. Simply follow the road as it rises gently, passing a small reservoir. Later, when a signpost indicates a path on the right, it is worth a very short diversion along it to see a ruined limekiln. The road later has a wall alongside, where a cliff drops to the sea, and a lighthouse can be seen ahead.

      The road is very bendy as it approaches the lighthouse, which is Far de Llebeig (the light is operational but the buildings are derelict), and there is also the option of taking a short path down to the left to look at a watchtower, Torre des Llebeig, which can be entered by those with the nerve to climb a 16-rung ladder.

      Retrace steps all the way back to Cala Lladó and consider if there is enough time to walk further. Turn left to follow itinerari 2 for Far de Tramuntana, passing toilets and rising along a stony track through woods. Pass a signpost, and note its position for the return. The track leaves the woods and descends to yet another lighthouse; Far de Tramuntana. This is also the closest of the three lighthouses to Mallorca.

      Once again, retrace steps, but when the signpost is reached that was noted on the outward journey, turn left down a path with steps on a wooded slope. A track continues, passing a crenellated tower. Reach a viewpoint and picnic area at na Miranda, then follow the track down past cultivated terraces to return to Calo Lladó. Any remaining time can be spent admiring a tiny botanic garden.

WALK 2

      Port d’Andratx and Pintal Vermell

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Start	Footbridge, Port d’Andratx
Finish	Bus stop, Sant Elm
Distance	9km (5½ miles)
Total ascent/descent	370m (1215ft)
Time	3hrs
Terrain	Fairly easy roads, tracks and paths, but one path needs care to locate