Mountain Walking in Mallorca. Paddy Dillon

villages have local festes, but these usually only affect local businesses and not public transport.

      Rampant flowers on the way from es Capdella to the Finca Galatzó (Walk 9)

Mountain weather

      Mallorca has a typical Mediterranean climate with mild, damp winters and hot, dry summers. The relative humidity is around 70% throughout the year. This, together with sea breezes, makes the hot summer days bearable, providing you are not walking uphill too much. There are nearly 300 sunny days in the year and even the winter months see an average of five hours of sunshine a day.

      Rain usually falls in heavy showers that soon clear up, although there are occasional days of torrential rain in the late autumn and early spring. The rainfall is greatest over the high mountains and least on the south coast. Snow is common on the mountain tops in winter but very rare at sea level, with falls there recorded in 1956, 1985 and 2005. When snow falls deeply on the mountain paths, they can be quite difficult to follow.

      Take nothing for granted with the weather, and obtain a forecast whenever possible. TV stations and Mallorcan newspapers carry daily weather reports. For hourly forecasts, check www.eltiempo.es/baleares.

Accommodation

      The main tourism website for Mallorca is www.infomallorca.net. Tourist information offices are located in all the main resorts, but some of them operate only during the summer. Staff at these offices usually speak English and can assist with information about accommodation, transport and visitor attractions. There is a tourist information office at the airport and others in the city of Palma.

      Accommodation varies widely, from dirt-cheap independent hostels to incredibly expensive hotels. While the bulk of tourists book package holidays, walkers may wish to stay in quiet rural locations or mountain villages. When choosing accommodation, think carefully about how far you are willing to travel in order to complete walking routes, as the island is big and travelling along winding mountain roads can be slow.

      If a car is being used, then accommodation could be located anywhere, but if bus services are being used, then accommodation needs to be chosen somewhere close to a bus station or bus stop, preferably in a place offering services in many directions. Staying close to the Estació Intermodal in Palma makes it possible to commute to and from every walking route in Mallorca, for those willing to start early and finish late.

      Some of the walks pass refugis, part of a small network established by the Consell de Mallorca and administered either by the Consell or independently. Often in restored buildings, they are equipped to a high standard and offer dormitory accommodation at very good prices. However, the refuges are more likely to be of interest to trekkers on the GR221 and are not really suited to use as a walking base – although hungry and thirsty passers-by may be grateful of the refreshments on offer. If you do wish to stay in a refugi, be aware that Mallorcans are very quick to take advantage of such economic yet quality accommodation, so weekends tend to be busy with family groups.

Language

      There are two official languages in Mallorca: Catalan and Castilian Spanish. Catalan is spoken from Andorra to València, as well as on the Balearic Islands. Mallorquí is a dialect of Catalan and includes words of French and Arabic origin. No-one expects visitors to learn Catalan, let alone Mallorquí, and any Spanish you learn will be readily understood. Many people in the main resorts and large hotels speak English, German and other languages but this may not be the case in small villages and in the countryside.

      Catalan in its written form may be understood by anyone with a knowledge of Spanish, but the spoken language is another matter. Between themselves, most islanders speak Mallorquí, so conversations on buses and in bars and shops may be incomprehensible to visitors. However, if you speak a little Spanish you will find that people are delighted and will help you all they can, and even more so if you attempt to converse in Catalan. It is well worth taking the trouble to learn a few words and phrases so as to be able to pass the time of day with local people.

      Placenames

      Most places in Mallorca had two names in the past, Spanish and Mallorquí. Since Mallorquí was given equal status with Spanish, almost all Spanish placenames have vanished from signposts and street signs. In fact, only in a few tourist resorts are there any Spanish signs to be seen, and Mallorquí may be the only language in evidence in rural areas.

      Confusion is likely to arise if you use old maps and guidebooks, which generally show only Spanish placenames. The popular Editorial Alpina maps use authentic Mallorquí placenames. As a rule, many placenames look similar, regardless of whether they are in Spanish or Mallorquí, but some hotels and businesses insist on using Spanish forms for their addresses. For visitors, this could be confusing if your hotel is listed as being in Puerto Sóller or Pollensa, but the only road signs you see are for Port de Sóller or Pollença!

      See Appendix A for basic phrases and useful words in English, Spanish and Catalan, along with a topographical glossary for use when interpreting placenames on maps.

Money

      The Euro is the currency of Mallorca. Large-denomination Euro notes are difficult to use for small purchases, so avoid the €500 and €200 notes altogether, and avoid the €100 notes if you can. The rest are fine: €50, €20, €10 and €5. Coins come in €2 and €1. Small denomination coins come in values of 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c and 1c. Bus drivers will appreciate the correct change and will frown on large notes. Many accommodation providers will accept major credit and debit cards, as will large supermarkets, but small bars, shops and cafés deal only in cash.

Food and drink

      All the towns and villages offer the opportunity to buy food and drink. In some places there may only be one or two shops selling food, but there will always be a bar-restaurant, and there are often opportunities to sample local fare. There are occasional roadside bar-restaurants, and refreshment options are mentioned in walk descriptions where relevant. (Note that refreshments are not available on all walks.) Shops generally open from 9am–1pm and 4pm–8pm. Long lunch hours are common, but some shops open all day, while some close on Saturday afternoons, and some may not open at all on Sundays.

      Mallorquín cuisine, or cuina Mallorquina, can differ from that of Catalonia on the mainland. Fish dishes are a speciality and so are tapas, served with drinks in many bars. They are usually behind glass on the counter, so you can point to the ones you want. Small or large helpings are offered and a large one can make a substantial meal. See Appendix A for translations of many types of local specialities that may appear on menus.

Kit check

      A popular path is followed from l’Ofre into the Barranc de Biniaraix (Walk 23)

      Think carefully about the gear you plan to wear and carry. Ground conditions are often hard and stony, but there are plenty of easier tracks and roads. Wear boots or shoes according to your personal preference over such terrain. Bear in mind that hot feet might be more of a problem than wet feet, so think carefully when choosing footwear and socks.

      Clothing should be lightweight and light coloured, offering good protection from the sun, while being able to offer good ventilation for sweat. It could be cold on the high mountains, especially in the winter. Waterproofs and windproofs might only be used rarely, so lightweight items will usually be fine. On sunny days, use sunscreen on exposed skin and wear a good sun hat. Bare limestone is very bright in the full sun, so consider taking sunglasses. Ample water must be carried on hot days – a minimum of two litres. Guard against sunburn and heat exhaustion at all times, but be prepared for colder and wetter days too.

Mountain maps

      Many of the walking routes in this guidebook are signposted or waymarked, but many of them aren’t,