Mountain Walking in Mallorca. Paddy Dillon

is the pine processionary moth. The female lays up to 200 eggs, which hatch into voracious caterpillars that can cause great damage to trees. They live in dense, spherical webs and move to new foraging areas by marching nose-to-tail, thus giving rise to their name. Avoid handling them, as they are covered in hairs that can irritate the skin. Other ‘pest’ insects include the red palm weevil, which destroys palms.

      Birdwatching

      Serious birdwatchers should get in touch with the local experts, the Grup Ornitològic Balear (GOB), www.gobmallorca.com. GOB has long been involved in renovating an old building as a refugi (refuge) at La Trapa, above Sant Elm (Walk 3). Unfortunately, construction has stalled and its future is in doubt. Other Mallorcans have a passion for hunting birds, especially thrushes, which cause a lot of damage to olive groves. Shooting and netting take place from the end of August to the end of January, but this should not inconvenience walkers as it usually occurs in the evening and at dawn. Most species of birds are protected.

      A juvenile gull displays typical mottled plumage

      The black vulture is unmistakeable when seen above remote mountains. Numbers dropped alarmingly in the last century and a programme was set up to assist their recovery. This involves minimising disturbance, leaving carrion out for them, setting up breeding programmes and introducing black vultures from other areas. The breeding season is exceptionally long, extending from January through to July. Black vultures are usually seen over the mountains between Sóller and Pollença.

      Raptors include red kites, peregrines, kestrels and booted eagles. Harriers are occasional visitors, while ospreys may be seen at the large reservoirs at Cúber and Gorg Blau. Eleonora’s falcon breeds along the northern coastal cliffs.

      Hoopoes are eagerly spotted in many places, while large flocks of crag martins are notable in the mountains in winter. Alpine accentors also frequent the highest mountains in winter. The blue rock thrush keeps itself out of sight, while swifts breed safely on cliffs. During the winter there is a big influx of birds from northern Europe, including starlings, thrushes, finches, waders and wildfowl. Woodlands support blackcaps, black redstarts, crossbills and goldfinches. Look out for white wagtail, meadow pipits, serins and greenfinches. Linnets and great tits are common and robins and chaffinches are abundant. Firecrests are found fairly high in the mountains.

Travel to Mallorca

      Passing beneath an overhang on the way to es Horts (Walk 39)

      By air

      Most visitors fly to Mallorca from airports as far apart as Iceland and Israel, from all over Europe, including over two dozen British airports. The choice of routes and airlines is bewildering, but there are plenty of budget operators and deals for those willing to search online. It is worth accessing the Palma de Mallorca airport website to discover just how many routes and operators are available, www.aena.es (English-language option available; select ‘choose airport’).

      By road or rail

      Few travellers consider an overland journey to Mallorca, but the Mediterranean ports of Barcelona, Valencia and Dènia are served by trains and buses. For coach travel check Eurolines, www.eurolines.com, or for trains check www.renfe.com. Driving overland is a very time-consuming approach, but may suit expatriates living in southern Spain.

      Ferries

      Ferries sail from Barcelona, Valencia and Dènia to Palma, including Trasmediterranea, www.trasmediterranea.es, and Balearia, www.balearia.com. Ferries berth so close to Palma that it is possible to walk straight through the historic city centre for onward bus or rail connections, or use EMT bus 1 to get from the port to the Estació Intermodal on Plaça d’Espanya. Some buses heading west can be caught near the ferryport, without the need to go into the city. These include bus 102 to Port d’Andratx and bus 111 to Calvià and es Capdellà.

      Taking or hiring a car

      Car hire can be arranged in advance, on arrival at the airport or through most hotels. Before considering this approach, bear in mind that using a car to access a walk means returning to it afterwards. There are plenty of excellent linear walks that link with public transport, for which a car is a liability.

Travel around Mallorca

      A colourful bus crosses a vintage railway line in Bunyola

      By train

      There are only two railway lines leaving the centre of Palma. An expensive, rickety, vintage train called the Ferrocarril de Sóller runs northwards to Bunyola. It then passes through 13 tunnels beneath the Serra d’Alfàbia and spirals down to Sóller, where it links with an electric tram to Port de Sóller. For timetables, tel [phone] or 971 752028, www.trendesoller.com.

      Serveis Ferroviaris de Mallorca (SFM) trains only serve the end of one route (Walk 28), but they link with buses that serve a few more walking routes. For instance, bus 320 links the Consell-Alaró station with Alaró, and bus 330 links the Inca station with Caimari and Lluc. For train timetables, tel [phone], www.tib.org.

      By bus

      Bus timetables are published to cover the summer (April to September) and winter (October to March) seasons. The combined bus/rail station, the Estació Intermodal in Palma, provides photocopies for a few cents, and they are posted on brightly coloured bus stops around Mallorca, but otherwise printed copies are difficult to obtain. Most buses, but by no means all of them, are red and yellow. Buses run from early until late, but some remote villages have few buses. A list of useful bus services is given in Appendix B; for more details, tel [phone], www.tib.org.

      By taxi

      Taxis are available in all towns and most villages throughout Mallorca, usually close to the main squares or near popular hotels. Cars are generally white, with a stripe bearing the crest of the local municipality. The green sign Lliure/Libre means ‘free’ and any taxi displaying this can be used. In case of difficulty ask your hotel, or a roadside bar, to call one for you. Offer a couple of Euros if they seem reluctant to phone. A general rule of thumb is that a long taxi journey will cost five times more than the bus fare. If three or four walkers share a taxi, the individual cost is close to the bus fare for the same journey. You can ask to see a scale of charges approved by the local municipality, but if you want to go on a long journey you may have to pay the fare both ways even if you’re not returning. Bear in mind that when asking for a taxi pick-up in a remote place, at short notice, it could be an hour or more before it arrives.

When to go

      In theory it is possible to walk in Mallorca at any time of the year, but the peak summer period is very hot and any strenuous activity is quite exhausting. Spring and autumn are usually warm and clear, with a chance of rain, and most walkers would be happy with conditions at these times. The winter months can be clear and warm, but there is a greater risk of rain and the possibility of cold winds and snow on higher ground. Roughly every 20 years the whole of Mallorca is covered in snow, all the way down to the beaches, making transport to the mountains and walks along paths difficult.

      Note the large number of religious or cultural holidays, or festes, on the island. Many businesses close on these days and public transport operates a reduced level of service. The main dates are 1 and 6 January, 1 March, Easter (Thursday to Monday), 1 May, 25 July, 15 August, 12 October, 1 November