Mountain Walking in Mallorca. Paddy Dillon

a rocky shoulder at 300m (985ft), pass a noticeboard and look down on old buildings and former cultivation terraces at La Trapa. Follow a path in that direction and cross a ladder stile to reach an access track.

      LA TRAPA

      The ruined buildings of La Trapa and the island of sa Dragonera

      A community of Trappist monks, first expelled from Normandy in France in 1789, then expelled from Zaragoza in Spain in 1808, settled in this remote valley in 1810. One monk was elected to trade with the outside world and was obliged to live separately. The site was abandoned in 1820, sold in 1853 and fell into ruins after serving as a farm. It was purchased in 1980, along with the surrounding land, by a birdwatching and environmental organisation, Grup Ornitològic Balear. Disaster struck in 1994, and again in 2013, when fires destroyed the forested upland. Trees have been replanted, but will take decades to mature. Old drystone terraces and the irrigation system have been restored. Plans to provide refugi accommodation have stalled.

      To explore the site, simply walk down the track, passing the former monastery to reach a nearby mill. Walk down to a bare circular area that was an era, or threshing floor, but now bears tall pines. A little further downhill is a mirador with a fine view of sa Dragonera, explored on Walk 1. Double back uphill to continue the walk.

      Follow the zigzag access track uphill from La Trapa. A signpost and a marker post indicate that this is the way to ses Basses, but be sure to leave the track on a bend to follow a narrow path onwards. It is possible to follow the track over a gap and short-cut back down to Sant Elm. Pass occasional burnt and toppled pines among the dense scrub, then pass a noticeboard. Follow the path as it climbs gradually past old terraces in Vall de Sant Josep, becoming steeper and more rugged.

      There is no sign of habitation in any direction as the path reaches 450m (1475ft) on the open slopes of Puig de ses Basses. When a large cairn is reached, turn left to follow a short path to the Mirador d’en Josep Sastre, for a fine view of sa Dragonera, then return to the cairn to continue.

      The path crosses rugged terrain dotted with asphodels and rosemary. There are superb views north-east along the coast, taking in the nearby peak of Mola de s’Esclop and distant Puig Major. Head gradually down from one burnt pine tree to another. In 2013 a fire burnt many trees between here and Estellencs. When more pines are reached on a crest, turn left along a path that might be obscured by a fallen tree. Another short path on the left could be followed for a view, otherwise keep right, traversing a slope thick with càrritx. Enjoy coastal views and eventually reach a track beside a solitary little house at ses Basses.

      Turn left to follow a winding track downhill, reaching a signpost and mapboard at a junction around 340m (1115ft). Turn sharp right to commence the descent to s’Arracó. Following the track onwards leads to Coll de sa Gramola, where a pick-up could be organised. Descend past a few pine trees, and follow the winding track down into a valley. Keep left at a junction, but notice a limekiln among pines to the right. The track passes above a concrete dam and continues climbing across a slope. It has a buttressed edge, winds uphill and reaches a rocky, scrubby crest around 325m (1065ft).

      Descend on broken bedrock, passing the solitary ruin of Caseta de l’Amo en Pep. Rocky, scrubby slopes are crossed on the way down past Coll des Cucons. Later, there might be fallen trees to negotiate on the way into a forest. The track rises and descends gently around the slopes of Puig d’en Guida, catching glimpses of little houses, or casetes, on old cultivation terraces. Cross a gentle, forested gap beside Puig d’en Corso, at almost 220m (720ft). Descend, and keep turning right at a triangular junction, descending to the right of a house called Can Corso. The track is very bendy and gives way to a tarmac road.

      Puig des Campàs is seen on the descent to s’Arracó

      Simply walk straight ahead, taking note of marker posts at junctions, with occasional views towards s’Arracó. Turn right at a signposted junction at Barri sa Clota. Farms give way to houses as Calle del Porvenir enters s’Arracó. Turn right to follow the road straight through the village, passing tall buildings and the church of Sant Crist. There are cafés and bar-restaurants. Carrer de França leads to a roundabout outside the village, where there are bus stops.

WALK 4

      Mola de s’Esclop from Ses Fontanelles

Start/Finish	Ses Fontanelles
Distance	9km (5½ miles)
Total ascent/descent	770m (2525ft)
Time	4hrs
Terrain	Good tracks at first, then rugged paths are sometimes vague. The higher parts of the mountain involve short scrambles on bare rock.
Map	Alpina Tramuntana Sud
Refreshment	Basic refreshment at Ses Fontanelles
Transport	None

      The rugged mountain of s’Esclop can be approached from a number of directions, and the route from Ses Fontanelles is handy because it starts at a private refuge. The way is rugged and seems longer than it actually is, then the summit offers wide-ranging views. If there is no need to return to Ses Fontanelles, then descents can be made towards Estellencs or es Capdellà.

      Leave Ses Fontanelles, at 280m (920ft), following a track as signposted up to a path. Walk up the forested valley of Coma des Cellers and keep left at a higher level to follow another track. Just before the track reaches a gate, switch to a narrow, rugged, cairned path, swinging left as it climbs, with views back to Pla de s’Evangèlica. Watch carefully to spot where the path exploits a breach in the cliffs at Pas Gran, around 450m (1475ft), crossing an old fence. Keep watching for small cairns all the way up a rocky slope dotted with pines, bushes and scrub.

      Looking back while climbing a rocky slope at Pas Gran

      The rather vague path crosses a metal ladder stile over a fence, almost touching 610m (2000ft) before descending through an area with more pines and dense càrritx. A house might be noticed uphill at ses Alquerioles, but keep watching for the cairned path, rising to cross another metal ladder stile. Turn right and pass between an old well and a ruin.

      Climb, but pay great attention to the route, which is vague in places. It rises across old terraces, where burnt and fallen trees often obscure the way. In 2013 a forest fire caused extensive damage in this area.

      It is important to spot a rocky cleft in a cliff at Pas d’en Ponsa, which is awkwardly clogged with burnt and fallen trees. Once through, it is tempting to follow a trodden path onwards, but it leads downhill, so turn right and climb, watching for more small cairns. These show the way up another rocky slope dotted with pines. Views open up wonderfully, with the watchtower of sa Torre Nova seen far below.

      Keep climbing to reach a prominent fan palm. Just beyond it is an area of short-cropped grass, with a circular era, or threshing floor, situated between the tumbled ruins of Caseta de la Mola and old terraces at 844m (2769ft).

      Turn right to follow a path across terraces beneath a cliff. Turn left and tackle some mild scrambling to gain the crest of Mola de s’Esclop. Turn either right or left. Right leads quickly to a ruined building that once served as an observatory. Readings were taken to measure the Paris Meridian. Left leads to the summit trig point at 928m (3045ft). Splendid views stretch in all directions, with the neighbouring peak of Puig de Galatzó featuring particularly well.

      Descend