Walking in Austria. Kev Reynolds

Height gain 1212m Grade 2–3 Time 4–4½hrs Location In the Garneratal south of Gaschurn

      The Tübinger Hut sits high up on the east side of the wild Garneratal in the rocky cirque that carries the Austro–Swiss border. Built in 1908 it has been enlarged and improved at least twice since then, but it retains a cosy atmosphere with its wood-burning stove glowing in the stube when storm clouds broil outside. The valley is narrow, steep-walled and rugged; at its head rise mountains of 2700–2800m, but a wooded gorge squeezes its northern end from which the Garnera Bach spills out to the Montafontal.

      There are at least two routes to the hut from Gaschurn. This is the shortest and easiest, but a good alternative begins by taking the Versettla gondola lift to Nova Stoba on the western ridge at 2010m, from where a waymarked path heads south to cross several modest summits before coming to the 2515m Vergaldajoch, after which the way cuts across the valley’s upper reaches with a final climb to the hut (5–6hrs).

      A signpost by the tourist office in Gaschurn’s main street directs the way down a side road towards the river. Do not cross at the first opportunity, but turn left along a side road, then cross at the next bridge, arriving on the main road opposite the Versettla Bahn. Take a service road left of the cableway entrance, and when this ends by a restaurant, go ahead on a stony track, cross a stream and turn right on another service road.

      Following the Garnera Bach upstream, the tarmac ends by some houses, but an unmade road continues, twisting uphill through the wooded gorge (Garneraschlucht) at the Garneratal’s entrance. At the first hairpin a footpath breaks away to climb alongside the river’s waterfalls, and about 1hr from Gaschurn it brings you to the large and attractive group of timber buildings of Ganeu (1420m) set among pastures. The track also reaches this hamlet, then continues upvalley, crossing the stream several times.

      Although it’s perfectly feasible to follow the unmade road/track all the way to the Tübinger Hut’s goods lift about 6km beyond Ganeu, a better option is to take the path which remains on the east bank of the stream as far as a bridge where you rejoin the track. The valley is surprisingly level for while, then it rises on the approach to the Garneralpe (1675m). Once again it’s possible to take a path on the east bank, rejoining the track where it crosses the stream a little over 1km further on.

      At about 1890m a signed path breaks away to make a rising traverse of the eastern hillside. The Tübinger Hut is now 40mins away. Rising among lush vegetation the path climbs steeply in places up what is an old glacial sill, and the final few paces to the hut are over rocks.

      The Tübinger Hut (2191m: Category I) has 40 beds in rooms and 79 dormitory places, and is fully staffed from July to the end of September (tel [phone]).

      ROUTE 9

      Tübinger Hut (2191m) – Hochmaderer Joch (2505m) – Bielerhöhe (2036m)

Start	Tübinger Hut (2191m)
Valley base	Gaschurn or Bielerhöhe
Distance	9km
Height gain	430m
Height loss	585m
Grade	3
Time	4–4¼hrs
Location	Northeast and east of the Tübinger Hut

      A natural departure from the Tübinger Hut takes a route over the Garneratal’s east-walling ridge, down to the Kromertal and up to the Bielerhöhe, from where buses run through both the Montafon and Paznaun valleys. This is a very fine mountain walk, with some exposure on the way to the Hochmaderer Joch, and a very steep initial descent from it.

      A sign outside the hut indicates the way to the Bielerhöhe, at first picked out with waymarks across a bouldery wilderness, but then a path becomes clearer as it slants across the hillside heading northeast. As you gain height, retrospective views reveal that the hut is perched on a glacial sill.

      The path to the joch is mostly good, but there are several fairly exposed sections where caution is advised. About 40mins after leaving the hut the way turns a spur into the hanging valley of the Gatschettatäli headed by the 2823m Hochmaderer. About 6mins later reach a path junction at 2300m. Ignore the left branch (a high route to Ganeu and Gaschurn) and keep ahead with cairns and red paint flashes guiding the way ever higher through the rocky little valley.

      Descending from the Hochmaderer Joch, the Vermunt Stausee can be seen in the valley below

      The Hochmader, with the joch to its left

      Shortly before gaining the pass, an alternative path strikes off left to make the ascent of the Hochmaderer – a recommended diversion. Allow 50–60mins for the ascent, plus 40mins descent back to this junction.

      From the junction the path makes a traverse to the right (south) and 2mins later comes onto the Hochmaderer Joch (2505m), about 1hr 40mins from the hut. A sudden eastward view shows the Silvretta Stausee at the Bielerhöhe with the road snaking to it; but best of all is the sight of snow-gleaming peaks of the Silvretta Alps.

      The initial descent is very steep and demands care. But the gradient eases as you come down to a rocky hollow, cross a stream then work round the right-hand hillside and turn a spur to gain a view onto the milky blue waters of the Vermunt reservoir. A few minutes after this the view is to the south, where rocky peaks block the Kromertal.

      Descend into the bed of the Kromertal, crossing several minor streams on the way to a track where you turn right along it for just 2mins. A signed junction at 1920m directs you left, and moments later you cross the Kromer Bach on a plank footbridge and continue across pastures. Here the way becomes less distinct, although there’s a path of sorts which weaves among bilberry, juniper and alpenrose, crosses several more minor streams and comes to the Madlener-Haus (60 beds, 20 dormitory places; Tel [phone]). Unless you need accommodation here follow a service road beyond the hut, then take a slanting footpath up to the car park at the Bielerhöhe.

      At the Bielerhöhe you will find bus stops (for Montafon and Paznaun village services), a kiosk, toilets, public telephone and café. There is also a tourist boat on the Silvretta Stausee. For accommodation note the 2-star Berggasthof Piz Buin (55 beds; Tel [phone]) just above the road, and the large Silvretta Haus hotel opposite the car park.

      ROUTE 10

      Bielerhöhe (2036m) – Saarbrucker Hut (2538m)

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Start	Bielerhöhe (2036m)
Valley base	Bielerhöhe or Galtür
Distance	6km
Height gain	502m
Grade	2
Time	3hrs
Location	Southwest of the Bielerhöhe