Walking in Austria. Kev Reynolds

15mins. A signed path now breaks away to the right, rising across a hillside dotted with alpenroses. In another 15mins or so it comes to a second junction at 2080m. The Totalp Hut route continues to twist up the hillside which becomes increasingly rocky, and about 40mins from the junction you come over a lip to find the hut just ahead (1hr 15mins from the Douglass Hut). Refreshments can be taken here.

      Kirchlispitzen, viewed from the Totalp Hut

      The timber-built Totalp Hut (2385m) is staffed from the end of May to mid-October; 85 dormitory places, Category I (tel [phone]).

      To return to the Lünersee descend the stony path used on the ascent, but in 20mins or so branch right at the 2080m junction signed to the Lindauer Hut, Cavelljoch and Schweizertor. This takes you down to the Totalp Hut’s goods lift and a crossing path. Turn right, and rising gently round the southern end of the lake over grass hummocks starred with flowers, come to the Lünersee Alm and yet another junction at 2000m. Take the left fork, and 45mins later arrive back at the Douglass Hut.

      ROUTE 3

      Douglass Hut (1976m) – Schesaplana (2965m)

Start	Douglass Hut (1976m)
Valley base	Brand
Distance	5km (ascent only)
Height gain	989m
Grade	3
Time	3hrs (+ 2hrs descent)
Location	West of the Lünersee at the head of the Brandnertal

      The ascent of the Schesaplana, highest of the Rätikon peaks, will no doubt be on the list of most experienced mountain walkers and scramblers visiting the area. By this route the mountain is not technically difficult to climb under ‘normal’ summer conditions, but snow patches should be expected, and there’s a certain amount of loose rock, grit-covered ledges and some exposed passages to be wary of. Caution should be exercised, and the ascent taken seriously.

      Follow Route 2 above as far as the Totalp Hut (1hr 15mins) where a sign directs you onto a path west into the stony basin of the Totalp (‘dead alp’) which, despite its name, displays a rich variety of alpine plants. Across the basin the path, waymarked blue and white, climbs in zigzags and in a further 50mins arrives at a junction with the Gemslücken path which cuts to the left.

      The way now climbs more steeply in numerous zigzags to gain an upper basin choked either by scree or snow. From here the route slants up the right-hand side of the basin, then angles across to the left in order to reach the frontier ridge. The large cross on the summit of the Schesaplana is now visible for the first time as you turn right to climb the ridge directly to it. The views are extensive and varied. Near at hand both Drusenfluh and Sulzfluh attract in the southeast, the Brandner glacier is seen below to the north, while the Swiss side falls away to a mass of green valleys.

      Descend by the same route in 2hrs, taking special care to avoid knocking loose stones onto others below.

      From the Schesaplana, the vivid Lünersee captures your attention

      ROUTE 4

      Douglass Hut (1976m) – Cavelljoch (2239m) – Douglass Hut

Start	Douglass Hut (1976m)
Valley base	Brand
Distance	8km
Height gain	263m
Height loss	263m
Grade	2
Time	3hrs
Location	South of the Lünersee

      The Cavelljoch is a broad saddle on the Austro–Swiss border flanked by the abrupt west wall of the Kirchlispitzen. In the early summer the saddle is ablaze with alpine flowers, and views are beautiful both north and south. An easy but extremely pleasant walk leads to it from the Douglass Hut.

      Cotton grass betrays a marshy area above the Lünersee Alm

      Take the lakeside path in either direction as far as the Lünersee Alm on the south side of the lake, to find a signed junction (50–60mins). Follow the trail which rises to the rear of the hut into a hanging valley, and at the next junction 5mins later, branch half-right and mount grass slopes above a marshy area to gain the saddle of the Cavelljoch about 40–50mins from the Lünersee Alm. On a calm day this is a very pleasant site for a picnic. To return to the Douglass Hut (1½hrs) reverse the outward route, but take a different lakeside path for variety.

      Cutting across the southern flank of the mountains the path of the Rätikon Höhenweg Sud is the Swiss equivalent of the Rätikon Höhenweg Nord described below. By following this trail westward, the Schesaplana Hut can be reached in 1hr 45mins; to the east the Carschina Hut is 3hrs away.

ROUTE 5

      Rätikon Höhenweg Nord

Start	Douglass Hut (1976m)
Finish	Gargellen (1423m)
Distance	23km
Grade	3
Time	3 days
Location	West to east across the north flank of the mountains
Highest point	Sarotlapass (2389m)

      Making a traverse of the north flank of the Rätikon mountains, this is a justifiably popular hut-to-hut tour that makes an excellent introduction to this form of mountain activity. Each stage is comparatively short. Paths are mostly good and well marked. The route is not too demanding, yet it has a few strenuous sections and in places a brief sense of isolation. Huts are comfortable and the scenery superb.

      Day 1 From the Douglass Hut follow the lakeside path in either direction as far as the Lünersee Alm where there’s a signed junction. Take the upper path climbing into a hanging valley, and keep ahead at the next junction 5mins later. (The right branch goes to the Cavelljoch on the Swiss border – see Route 4.) Aiming for the Verajöchl the path rises alongside a little stream leaking through pastures. Ignore a second path branching right to the Cavelljoch, continue ahead and cross the stream by footbridge, then skirt a marshy basin fluffed with cotton grass.

      Passing below an abandoned customs hut, the way climbs left into an upper region littered with rocks and boulders, then becomes more grassy on the final approach to the 2330m Verajöchl. From the saddle a splendid view ahead shows the great gash of the Schweizertor cleaving the limestone wall that runs from the Kirchlispitzen to the Drusenfluh. Looking back the Schesaplana is equally impressive.

      Descend grass slopes on the east side of the saddle to another