Walking in Austria. Kev Reynolds

The initial descent is steep and over rocks, then in tight zigzags down to the floor of the Bieltal shortly after passing the Radsee tarn at 2477m.

      The Bieltal is a gentle, narrow valley with a rich variety of alpine flowers in early summer, and the path follows its stream most of the way through it. Towards the northern end of the valley the way curves left among hillsides thick with alpenroses, and finally brings you back to the Bielerhöhe above the Silvretta Stausee.

      Piz Buin and its glacier, from the Radsattel

      ROUTE 13

      Galtür (1584m) – Jamtal Hut (2165m)

Start	Galtür (1584m)
Valley base	Galtür
Distance	10km (one way)
Height gain	581m
Grade	1–2
Time	3hrs (+ 2½hrs return)
Location	South of Galtür, at the head of the Jamtal

      The head of the Jamtal is bounded by a group of 3000m summits and a neat curtain of glaciers. Streams drain from them to gather in a little plain below the Jamtal Hut which stands amid a rocky landscape at the mouth of the wild tributary valley of the Futschölbach. The hut is a large one with good facilities, and this walk to it travels almost the full length of the valley without any complications, so you can swing along the track and enjoy the scenery without frequent reference to either guidebook or map. The route only warrants a grade slightly higher than 1 because of its length.

      A sign in the village square near the tourist office in Galtür indicates the way to the hut. Heading south, a narrow road rises between buildings, then forks. Take the right branch, and soon after a sign gives two options: one (the main route) continues straight ahead, the other branches right and is signed Trittweg – see box.

      Trittweg option: Turn right and walk down a tarmac drive towards a house named Büntalihof. Pass alongside the house and beyond a few other buildings to a footbridge over the Jambach. Across the stream turn left on a track. At first rising under forest, it then goes between meadows, recrosses the Jambach and joins the standard route a little north of Egg Alm.

      Above Galtür the main route continues on the road on the east side of the valley, and shortly after being rejoined by the Trittweg option, an alternative track (for those in need of refreshment) crosses the Jambach to Menta Alm. For the Jamtal Hut remain on the road and you will soon come to a parking area, which marks the limit for private vehicles. Beyond this point the road is unsurfaced.

      The dirt road crosses the Jambach to its west bank at 1697m. A footpath alternative route is marked on the map as beginning at the bridge, but during research this was closed. Should it be reopened, it may be worth taking this option, which remains on the east bank all the way to the hut, and has sections of farm track as well as narrow footpath to follow. It is however, slightly more demanding than the main route described. Meanwhile, in 30–40mins from the bridge over the Jambach the dirt road/track passes just below Schieben Alm (1833m, refreshments) where it then forks. Take the upper branch, in effect continuing directly ahead.

      As you progress deeper into the valley, so more mountains are revealed – the Gamshorn for example, showing itself as a craggy peak with a block of moraine concealing a glacial remnant. Then the mountains that carry the Swiss border appear, with daubs of snow and small glaciers.

      Galtür, where the route to the Jamtal Hut begins

      In a little over 2½hrs the track crosses the Jambach for the last time at 2005m, before angling up and across the hillside below the Gamshorn. Topping a rise you pass a stone-built hut on the right and an alm building on the left, with the large Jamtal Hut seen ahead. Sloping down a little, cross the boisterous Futschölbach and walk up the final slope to the hut which stands among rocks and alpenroses at 2165m.

      The Jamtal Hut belongs to the Schwaben section of the DAV, and following avalanche damage, was rebuilt in 1999. A large Category I hut, it is fully manned from mid-February to early May, and from the end of June to the end of September, with 90 beds and 100 dormitory places (tel [phone]). Unusually, the hut also contains an indoor climbing wall. It has been wardened by members of the Lorenz family since the hut was first built in 1882.

      Routes from the Jamtal Hut

      Numerous summits, of varying degrees of difficulty, are accessible from the Jamtal Hut, among them the 3197m glacier-hung Dreiländerspitz (so-named because it links the borders of Vorarlberg, Tyrol and Switzerland), the Gemsspitze (3114m), Südliches Fluchthorn (3399m), and the 2987m Westliches Gamshorn.

      Perhaps of greater relevance to users of this guide, though, is the number of pass crossings that exist in the neighbourhood.

       On the west side of the valley lies the 2965m Getschnerscharte whose crossing leads to the Bielerhöhe in 4½–5hrs.

       The 2977m Ochsenscharte, north of the Dreiländerspitz, enables experienced trekkers to reach the Wiesbadener Hut in 5–6hrs.

       In the valley’s headwall east of the Dreiländerspitz, the Jamjoch is a 3078m glacier pass on the frontier ridge, on the south side of which lies the Tuoi Hut (6hrs).

       Another pass on the frontier ridge, but this one approached through the Futschöl valley, is the 2768m Futschöl Pass whose crossing leads into the Swiss Val Urschai which drains into the Lower Engadine (5½hrs to Ardez).

       At the head of the Futschöl valley, two cols give access to the Heidelberger Hut in the Val Fenga/Fimbertal. The Zahnjoch (2945m, 2½hrs) is unmarked for some of the way, and the 2974m Kronenjoch (3hrs from the Jamtal Hut) is the current recommended crossing, taking 5hrs in all to the Heidelberger Hut.

      ROUTE 14

      Hut to Hut across the Silvretta Alps

Start	Gargellen (1423m)
Finish	Ischgl (1367m)
Distance	59km
Grade	3
Time	5 days
Location	Eastward from Gargellen
Highest point	Kronenjoch (2974m)

      Making an eastward traverse of the Silvretta Alps, this outline hut tour is often added as an extension to the Rätikon Höhenweg Nord (Route 5) by strong mountain walkers. It’s a very fine route, challenging in places, less demanding in others, but almost always scenically inspiring.

      Day 1 The tour could begin in either Gargellen or Gaschurn, for the first stage leads to the Tübinger Hut in the upper reaches of the Garneratal. If it is to be added to the Rätikon Höhenweg, the most obvious choice is to head upvalley a short distance from Gargellen, then branch left into the Vergaldatal in order to cross the Vergaldajoch at 2515m. A second ridge is crossed beyond the joch from which the Tübinger Hut can be seen across the head of the Garneratal, and some 300m lower than your