Walking in Austria. Kev Reynolds

the Schweizertor at 2137m, then keep ahead to climb through a narrow grass valley below the contorted limestone of the Drusenfluh, and gain the 2291m Ofapass about 40mins from the Verajöchl. The Lindauer Hut can now be seen below to the east, and a sign suggests a rather generous 1hr 15mins to get there.

      Sulzfluh, seen from Sporeralpe near the Lindauer Hut

      With the hut in sight virtually all the way, the path descends steeply in places, with the Drusenfluh’s rock scenery growing more impressive with each step. Shortly after passing a very small alm hut, wander past the complex of buildings of Obere Sporalpe to reach the Lindauer Hut, about 3½hrs from the Douglass Hut.

      The Category I Lindauer Hut (1744m) has 60 beds in rooms and 140 dormitory places, is staffed from the end of February to the end of March, and from June to mid-October (tel [phone] www.lindauerhuette.at). A notable alpine garden is located next to it.

      Day 2 The second stage of the tour is also short (3hrs 15mins), but full of interest and notable for the long, steep ascent of the Bilkengrat. It begins by following a signed path heading east. This becomes a track, and when it curves left you continue ahead on a footpath sloping down among bilberry, dwarf pine and alpenrose, then twisting through light pinewoods with the big walls of the Sulzfluh towering overhead. Edging below these walls the way forks at the entrance to a hanging valley.

      An alternative route here ascends the Sulzfluh and crosses to the Tilisuna Hut in 3hrs 45mins.

      Taking the path to the Bilkengrat, wander a short distance into this valley, cross its stream, then climb steeply up the left-hand slope. Passing through a belt of conifers emerge to a stunning view back to the Drei Turme of the Drusenfluh. Continuing the steep climb of the Bilkengrat spur there are consistently fine views to enjoy. You then come to a junction at 1990m where a sign gives 1hr 15mins to the Tilisuna Hut. But the climb is by no means over, for there’s almost 350m yet to gain before reaching the 2336m Schwarze Scharte overlooking the Tilisunasee which lies below in a green basin. The Tilisuna Hut is unseen from here, although it’s only 20mins away. The path now swings round the mountainside, contours for a while, then angles easily down to turn a spur which reveals the hut just below.

      The Tilisuna Hut (2211m: Category I) is manned from mid-June to mid-October with 142 places in rooms and dormitories (tel [phone]). Given time and energy on arrival, it would be worth making the ascent of the Sulzfluh – see Route 7.

      Day 3 This final stage of the Rätikon Höhenweg Nord strays briefly onto the Swiss flank of the mountains before descending to Gargellen. A sign outside the hut directs the way to the Gruobenpass (25mins), the first of the day’s three passes. It heads across pastures above the Tilisunersee and forks near a much smaller tarn. Ignore the left branch and keep ahead, rising above the tarn and skirting the base of limestone crags. The way then twists among them, and squeezing through narrow clefts, gains the gap of the Gruobenpass where there’s a small wooden customs hut. There are two signs giving the altitude; the Austrian says 2241m, the Swiss sign gives 2232m.

      Do not cross this pass, but descend briefly left towards the pastures of the Gampadelstal, then rise again over grass hummocks, skirting little pools as the path works its way round the head of the valley. After weaving a devious course, the trail then makes a more direct approach to the Plasseggenpass (2354m). Just below it you pass another small one-time customs hut.

      The Plasseggenpass is not only the border between Austria and Switzerland, but also marks the divide between limestone on the west, and crystalline rock on the east. Once again the path forks. Branch left (southeast) to cut along the Swiss flank of the Sarotlaspitzen on a narrow path that picks a route across the steep broken slope. One section crossing a band of rocks is safeguarded with a length of fixed cable, and moments later you arrive at the Sarotlapass (2389m) to gain an exciting view ahead of the Silvretta group – a range of jaunty, rocky peaks, some wearing glaciers and snowfields.

      There follows a descent of more than 900m to Gargellen, at first taking a series of long loops down a steep hillside before contouring across the right-hand slope. The descent then resumes among alpenroses, crosses a gully and makes a traverse among lush vegetation, including thickets of alder. On turning a spur you gaze down into the head of the Gargellental, with the 2770m Madrisa directly ahead.

      On reaching the solitary alm building of Obere Röbialpe at 1913m, the path descends beside it, cuts down the right flank of a spur, then more steeply to Untere Röbialpe and a junction. Both options lead to Gargellen. The right branch cuts along the edge of woodland, then goes through it. Over a stream you then wander through a meadow to another farm and barn, then descend again into forest where a signed path slopes to the right and moments later you gain a direct view onto the village. A footpath takes you over a stream at the outflow from a gorge, and across a final meadow enters Gargellen (3hrs 15mins from the Tilisuna Hut).

      Gargellen (1423m) has a range of hotels, apartments and private rooms, a supermarket, post office and tourist information (tel [phone]). Buses go from here to St Gallenkirch in the Montafon valley.

      ROUTE 6

      Tschagguns (Latschau: 994m) – Lindauer Hut (1744m)

Start	Tschagguns (Latschau: 994m)
Valley base	Tschagguns
Distance	6km (one way)
Height gain	750m
Grade	2
Time	2½hrs (+ 2–2¼hrs return)
Location	Southwest of Tschagguns, at the head of the Gauertal

      The Lindauer Hut makes a popular destination for a day-walk, as well as a good base for climbing a variety of peaks, and an overnight halt for walkers on the Rätikon Höhenweg. The following approach is one of the easiest; a delight of grassy alms, woodland and fine views.

      Lying some 300m above Tschagguns, Latschau is a collection of chalets overlooking a reservoir. Reached by local bus via a road that twists between meadows and chalets, there’s plenty of parking space for visitors with their own cars, while the area is also served by a two-stage gondola lift system from Vandans.

      Wander along the narrow tarmac road heading south above the reservoir. Passing a number of chalets take the left branch when it forks. A few paces after this you pass to the left of Hotel Montabella. Once again the road forks, but this time take the right branch. Almost immediately the road becomes a stony track.

      The way goes through a wooded gorge, then forks. Both routes lead to the Lindauer Hut, but on this occasion keep to the left branch. After going through mixed woods you emerge to open meadows and the scattered chalets and haybarns of Volspora. Ahead can be seen the Sulzfluh and its glacier.

      At the far end of the meadows another track breaks left to Alpilaalpe, but ignore this and keep ahead to Volsporaalpe (1234m) where, should you be in need of refreshment, a path descends to the river, then climbs the opposite bank to the Gauertalhaus. If refreshment is not required, remain on the track which now rises to another level where long fingers of coniferous trees come down into the valley. When the track forks again, keep ahead, remaining on the east side of the river.

      The Drei Turme above the Lindauer Hut

      After crossing another alpine meadow with a solitary barn in it, the track twists up through forest (unmarked footpath shortcuts), and above this you rise through more pastures to a T junction of tracks. Bear left. As the track