Walking in Sicily. Gillian Price

through to orange. One unmistakable landmark plant that spreads like wildfire through abandoned fields, forming impenetrable thorny barriers, is a cactus – the prickly pear, also known under the colourful if misleading name of Barbary fig. Its introduction to Italy from South America is attributed to none other than Christopher Columbus. From spring through to summer it sports pretty, bright yellow, paperish flowers amidst its long, bristling spines, as well as reddish-purple egg-shaped fruit, edible if not particularly tasty once all the insidious prickles have been carefully extracted.

      Visitors from the Antipodes will be surprised at the sight of numerous eucalypts, originally introduced to the Mediterranean over past centuries to help drain swampy areas, and which have since themselves become a paradoxical drain on the precious water resources in many cases.

      Many of the species referred to above can be grouped under the vast class of Mediterranean maquis, which still accounts for a considerable range of altitudes on Sicily. Hardy, low, evergreen tree and impenetrable shrub cover combined with aromatic plants are apparently resistant to the scorching near-drought conditions of a typical Sicilian summer. However they succumb to fire, as oily substances ignite in a flash, but growth can be restored in a matter of months.

      Seashore walks are always rich in plant life, with interesting examples such as the stunning yellow horned poppy, lilac sea rocket, purple-tinged sea holly and pungent artemisia. The rather nondescript glasswort, or Salicornia, found on salt-ridden marshes and dunes, has jointed, bright green fleshy stalks which supply potash-rich ashes, long used in glass-making throughout the Mediterranean. Underwater plants include an unusual flowering seaweed which forms meadows and comes under the evocative appellation Posidonia oceanica (‘king of the sea’). Its fronds form floating cushions, though is more commonly seen in dried form, as the old leaves are pulverised then rolled into curious pebble-shaped balls by wave action, to be washed up on the beaches especially along the southern coast. Vast banks of seaweed strands deposited on the sand can even provide a habitat suitable for the endemic marigold.

      Prickly pear blooms

      While spring is undeniably the best time to go walking in terms of the flowers, autumn has its own specialities, such as unusual concentrations of cyclamens in the woods and the striking purple flowers of the poisonous mandrake. Also known as the love apple for its use in potions, not to mention as a painkiller in medieval times, it is similar to the gentian, though is enclosed by spreading dock-like leaves.

      Cyclamens are common in upland woods

Wildlife

      Crocodiles from the Nile, believed to have been imported by Arab conquerors during the 10th century, once prospered in Sicilian waters. Reports as late as the 16th century described the fearful creatures in lakes and rivers, not to mention Siracusa’s famed fountain Fonte del Ciane, where they lurked amongst the giant papyrus. On the other hand, fossil evidence from the Nebrodi mountain range clearly speaks of elephants, rhinoceros and hippopotamus, whereas prehistoric graffiti and cave paintings on the island of Levanzo depict donkeys and bison, along with tunny fish and dolphins. Present-day species are those that managed to live through the ravages of World War Two and extensive deforestation, after centuries of relatively peaceful cohabitation with agricultural man. Survivors range from shy deer and foxes to the wild boar and elusive porcupine (introduced by the ancient Romans for its delectable flesh), and even noisy walkers can count on seeing hordes of wild rabbits and the occasional larger creature such as mouflon. A Mediterranean native, this wild sheep frequents rugged scrub mountain flanks and can be distinguished by its showy curved horns.

      A fair range of snakes enjoy this sun-blessed island, and one of the longest and most commonly encountered is a swift and irritable black colubrid, which is harmless. The viper or adder (vipera in Italian), a venomous snake with diamond/zigzag markings on its light brown-grey back, is to be taken seriously. Bare feet and flimsy sandals are best avoided, as is sitting on sun-baked rocks without giving prior occupants time to slither away.

      The delightful transparent, creamy-coloured Sicilian gecko abounds, distinct from the more usual Mediterranean type. This miniature dragon darts about striking daring poses on walls inside and out in search of insects.

      Despite the over-fished state of the Mediterranean, majestic swordfish and silvery tuna of up to 200 kilos are a common sight in the markets, especially towards summertime. The former are pursued predominantly around Messina from curious boats (feluca) whose masts are fitted with slender lookout towers some 22m high. A similar extension of the prow serves the harpooner. Tuna, on the other hand, are subjected to a complex group hunt and meet their end according to age-old traditions that see them first captured in a labyrinth of nets and chambers, as per the mattanza still practised in the Egadi islands.

      The picture on the bird front is a little more cheerful. Pink flamingos have returned to coastal bird sanctuaries along with an impressive number of waterfowl such as herons, egrets and the elegant black-winged stilt (the cavaliere d’Italia), easily recognised by its long, spindly and unsteady crimson legs, almost comical as it fishes in shallow water. Dominant birds in the countryside tend to be flashy magpies and squawking jackdaws, though there are also melodious skylarks and nightingales, and some impressive birds of prey. In spite of the annual slaughter many are subjected to on their return south across the Strait of Messina, the list includes buzzards and kestrels, the peregrine falcon, Bonelli’s eagle and elegant Eleonora’s falcons, most of which are to be considered endangered. The latter are renowned for their evening group hunting forays when they prey on smaller, weary species. The unusual Egyptian white vulture, or pharaoh’s chicken, reportedly survives in the mountains, as do rare pairs of golden eagles.

      A frequenter of stony ground and clearings, the Sicilian rock partridge is not an unusual sight scurrying along a track trailing its young, while memorable is the eye-catching hoopoe running and bobbing its way along pathways. This unusual and showy bird is identifiable by its trademark crest of black-tipped, chestnut-brown feathers and black and white striped wings. A summer migrant in northern Europe, it often winters over in Sicily in preference to Africa.

      Sunset over the Sciara del Fuoco (Walk 46)

      THE NORTHEAST COAST

WALK 1

      Taormina and the Castello Saraceno

Start/Finish	Taormina railway station
Distance	3.5km/2.2 miles
Ascent/Descent	400m/400m
Grade	1
Time	2hr
Maps	Town map from Tourist Office
Access	Taormina’s railway station (Taormina-Giardini) is served by all Messina–Catania trains. Buses (Interbus) also stop here before proceeding uphill to the town, where it is feasible to slot directly into the upper part of the itinerary if desired. A novel way to access the town is by cable-car (funivia): from Mazzarò on the coast it ascends the mountainous eastern flank, to terminate a short distance from Porta Messina. Drivers on the A18 autostrada will need the Taormina Sud exit, then the SS 114 coast road, and are advised to seek parking on the outskirts of town.

      This popular scenic route makes use of old winding trails on the picturesque hillsides around the erstwhile Graeco-Roman settlement of Tauromenium, now a charming tourist attraction. The site was originally occupied by the native Sicel population and is set in a dominating