Walking in Sicily. Gillian Price

for the return walk, direct your steps downhill towards Piazza Duomo and the immaculately restored church. Take the lane under an arch, then follow signs down steps for the Pizzeria Le Mimose. After crossing two minor roads you quickly reach the lower edge of Castelmola, and close on hand left is a wide flight of steps high over the motorway. The way quickly becomes a lovely panoramic path winding through abandoned gardens thick with all manner of aromatic herbs, and olive and fruit orchards, now the domain of towering prickly pear, ablaze with pretty yellow blooms in early summer. A curve left leads through an old arch in view of a hillside pitted with the ancient tombs of the Sicel necropolis dating back to the Iron Age (10th–7th centuries BC), and now at risk from encroaching construction above.

      View to Castello Saraceno from Castelmola

      The path passes well below, in a blaze of pink oleanders and shaded by fig trees, before joining a surfaced road lined with broom close to a spread of modern apartments. Minutes later you touch on Via Leonardo Da Vinci once more, and essentially follow your nose for the final stretch back to town – namely take the steps down right, cross straight over the intersection for Salita Celestino Penna, and notice the lovely angle onto the Castello Saraceno and sanctuary. The subsequent leg is called Via della Chiusa, part of the route dating back to prehistoric times between Taormina and Castelmola.

      These steps between houses bring you out on Via Diodoro Siculo–Via Apollo Arcageta, just uphill from the town’s original cathedral, now the church of S. Francesco di Paola. Next is the square and car park preceding Porta Catania (keep left), leading back into the heart of Taormina along Corso Umberto I°, reserved for pedestrians. This broad avenue faithfully retraces the axis of the Graeco-Roman settlement, while the Via Valeria, the 3rd-century BC Roman road that linked Messina with Siracusa, also passed this way. Nowadays it is lined with ceramic workshops, pasticcerie crammed with mouth-watering almond pastries, and cafés where thirst-quenching granite can be had. This western medieval section of town includes a stately duomo and monumental fountain, before the Porta di Mezzo (clock tower) leads to the charming Piazza IX Aprile, featuring a terraced belvedere and several pastel stuccoed churches.

      Proceeding along the Corso don’t miss the brief detour right on Via Numachia for the massive Roman 122m-long brick wall, former support for a cistern or gymnasium. The Corso soon takes you past the magnificent 15th-century Palazzo Corvaja (and tourist office) which once hosted the Sicilian parliament, its striking two-tone facade the result of alternating limestone and lava blocks. After Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, erstwhile agora and forum, is Porta Messina and the conclusion (1hr for the return). Tourist office and Accommodation – see Walk 1.

      THE ALCANTARA RIVER VALLEY

      The Alcantara River rises at 1200m above sea level in the Nebrodi mountains in the northeastern triangle of Sicily, and flows eastwards for 48km to the Ionian Sea. En route it passes between the rugged Peloritani range and the imposing volcanic flanks of Etna. Heading towards the coast it runs through several striking gorges, patiently channelled out over geological time by the impetuous watercourse, which swells with spring snowmelt from the volcano and seasonal rain.

      Eons ago a minor volcano discharged a massive flow of lava that followed the same course, spreading a good 20km. The rock is basalt, solidified from a long-gone volcanic cone. This translates into flashing black walls of infinite angles that reflect the sparkling waters.

      Tree trunks carried by the current once served as makeshift links between one bank and the other, though ruins of numerous bridges still dot the banks – presumably the reason for the Arabic origin for Alcantara, from al Qàntarah for ‘bridge’. Fertile imaginations however attribute the origin to a legendary construction thrown across by the devil in a single night. In any case historical records of navigating the waterway date back to ancient times, many involving the proximity of the first Greek colony in Sicily, at Naxos below Taormina.

      The most spectacular stretch of the river – and one of Sicily’s top tourist attractions – is the Gole di Larderia, usually referred to as the Gole dell’Alcantara, 15km inland and well signposted. A narrow gauge railway ran along the valley 1958–1978 and encouraging talks are currently underway to re-open the line for tourists. In the meantime the area is accessible by either car or Interbus on the SS 185. Steps lead down to the valley floor (note: there’s a free-of-charge ‘Comunale’ entrance).

      Teeth-chilling cold water flows through the narrow cliff passage, and many visitors opt for waders to explore. Be warned that it is usually closed after heavy rain due to debris which obstructs the river and poses dangers for visitors, while on good days it can get very crowded.

      Wading up the Alcantara gorge

      In quieter spots, animal life can be expected in the shape of frogs and toads, the rare Hermann’s tortoise and other more common types, a number of harmless snakes, and a host of water birds such as grey herons.

      In addition to the gorge, the surrounds offer worthwhile walks in the realms of a newly established park which extends along the course of the river, encompassing over 31,000 hectares. The Parco Fluviale dell’Alcantara (Alcantara River Park) has its headquarters at Francavilla di Sicilia Tel [phone] or www.parcoalcantara.it.

      Bathing at the Alcantara River gorge

WALK 3

      Monte Mojo

Start/Finish	Mojo Alcantara
Distance	4km/2.4 miles
Ascent/Descent	200m/200m
Grade	1–2
Time	2hr 15min (1hr 15min with a car)
Access	Mojo Alcantara lies some 28km inland from Taormina and 10km from Francavilla, to which it is linked by bus on weekdays, courtesy of the Interbus line. Those arriving by car need the SS 185 which turns east away from the Ionian coast, a short distance south of Taormina. Drivers coming from Randazzo can take the SS 129 as far as Passo Pisciaro then turn north for Mojo.
Variant	If you are arriving by car you can cut 1hr off timing by driving as far the path start. Refreshments are available at Mojo.

      Mojo (also spelt Moio) is a sleepy backwater in the Alcantara hinterland. In addition to the sweet juicy peaches it produces, the main reason to pay a visit is the curious 703m-high mound at the rear of the village. The long-extinct volcano is recognisable from afar standing out in a blaze of unbelievably bright yellow broom in springtime. It was long believed to have pre-dated Etna itself, and fed on the same underground lava pool. Back in the mists of time the modest vulcanetto exploded and spewed ash and volcanic bombs over the surrounding countryside. Moreover Monte Mojo was long held responsible for spilling the thick river of lava that flooded the Alcantara valley, partially blocking the course of the river and leading to the formation of its spectacular gorges. However, more recent credible theories attribute this to Monte Dolce on the Etna massif.

      The local people tell a different tale to explain the mount’s presence. Once upon a time two farmers who were brothers made their home here. One was unfortunately blind and the other, named Mojo, decidedly evil-intentioned, and hid the harvest. This was brought to the attention of the Almighty who took appropriate action: a massive bolt of lightning struck the wrongdoer, turning him into a huge black volcano,