Walking in Sicily. Gillian Price

has been carried out on the pathways in Sicily, with waymarking and signposting on the initial 45km in the Palermo area. The question of accommodation is yet to be resolved, but in the meantime sections can be followed on a day basis. Information on this route can be obtained from the Italian Alpine Club.

Parks, Reserves and Protected Areas

      With a plethora of diverse pressing problems to deal with on the island, the environmental movement in Sicily did not get off the ground until the 1980s. A landmark demonstration in 1980 to halt the construction of a coastal road between Scopello and San Vito Lo Capo on the northwesternmost cape led to the establishment of the Riserva dello Zingaro and heightened awareness of the issues at stake. A string of noteworthy parks and reserves was set up in the wake of the action thanks to appropriate legislation, though it is proving to be a particularly slow and cumbersome process. The Parco dell’Etna, Sicily’s first regional park, saw the light of day in 1987; the Parco delle Madonie dates back to 1989; the extensive Parco dei Nebrodi was set up in 1993; while the newest, the Parco Fluviale dell’ Alcantara established in 2001, is currently finding its feet while its borders are still being debated. A fifth is rumoured for the Sicani region in the centre-west. More specific information is given in the introductions to each park area. Moreover, www.parks.it is a good source of information.

      Exploring the Silvestri craters (Walk 5)

      Furthermore, a host of nature reserves (77 in actual fact) often known as riserva naturale orientata, mostly under the auspices of the very capable State Forestry Department of Sicily, the WWF (Global Environment Network) as well as the Italian Alpine Club (CAI), protect some remarkable sites in the provinces of Siracusa, Trapani and Palermo for a start. Generally speaking picking flowers, camping, fishing and dogs are forbidden in protected areas. Marine reserves govern activities such as spear fishing in the Egadi islands. In all some 23% of the whole of Sicily, corresponding to some 6000 sq km, is given over to protected areas.

      Groundwork through schools and community-based initiatives is carried out to sensitise local people and prevent them from regarding the protected area solely as an imposition or only in terms of restrictions and prohibitions. Drawing up a workable management plan can take time, and only when it has been implemented can work start on facilities for visitors – funds and staff permitting.

When to Go

      Sicily’s climate is typically Mediterranean with hot dry summers and mild rainy winters. It could almost be summed up as having only these two seasons, as the others only appear fleetingly. Fortunately the marvellous range of altitudes and landscapes mean the island can be glorious at any time of year. On the coast temperatures average out at 19°C (13°C inland) and rarely drop below 10°C even in midwinter, except during the once-in-a-blue-moon snowfall. Generally, March through to June is the best time to go walking in Sicily as the countryside exhibits brilliant carpets of green with extraordinarily dense, and unfortunately short-lived, masses of wild flowers.

      Rocky steps at Pantalica (Walk 11)

      In summer, from June onwards, when parched conditions have set in across the lowlands and the island is roasting with temperatures that soar above 30°C under the effect of the blistering scirocco wind straight from Africa, the mountain ranges come into their own with deliciously cool conditions, as do the breeze-blessed islands. Late July–August is understandably the busiest time for visitors and high-season prices apply.

      Strangely, the sea tends to be chilly for swimming until well into the summer but luckily retains its warmth through to the autumn months, when visibility is usually at its prime throughout Sicily. Daylight Saving Time in Italy lasts from the beginning of April to the end of October.

      As already mentioned, late autumn–winter is the season when Sicily receives its lion’s share of rain, usually desperately needed by the farmers after the near drought conditions of a protracted summer. This is the time of year when sudden downpours cause stony, arid river beds to swell and become fiumare (the term for a seasonal watercourse), and the land starts soaking up moisture in preparation for the imminent explosion of green.

      Walkers on the old railway track at Pantalica (Walk 12)

What to Take

      In terms of footwear, as the majority of these Sicilian routes follow decent country paths, in most cases nothing more than a good pair of gym shoes is needed. Sandals (with a good grip) are suitable in several cases. However, the exceptions are the volcano routes, notably on Etna and the island of Stromboli, which demand walking boots with thick soles, as anything light will be ripped to shreds by the solidified lava. Ankle support, moreover, is a requisite for the mountainous terrain encountered, for instance, in the Madonie and on the island of Marettimo.

      The season and areas visited will dictate specific clothing needs. Loose-fitting cotton garments over a layered base is a good rule, though a pullover or fleece will be appreciated for evenings in the mountain areas. Weatherproof gear is indispensable all year round for the volcano walks as well as the high-altitude routes in the Madonie range. Coastal paths, on the other hand, often call for a windproof jacket outside of summer, while inland routes may require long trousers for the inevitable overgrown thorny stretches. While shorts (for both sexes) are acceptable beachwear in Sicily they are not worn in the countryside, and may cause embarrassment or disapproval in small towns. Discretion is recommended.

      It goes without saying that the list of essentials includes a water bottle, sunglasses, a hat (shade is a rare commodity in Sicily) and high-factor protective sun cream, which can double as a remover for the treacherous blobs of tar that occasionally stain the shoreline. Swimming and snorkelling equipment (goggles at least) are optional but warmly recommended, while an altimeter and compass come in handy where waymarking and useful landmarks are lacking. Bird enthusiasts will appreciate a pair of binoculars. A basic first-aid kit with plasters and insect repellent is suggested, as is a torch or headlamp for the cave in Walk 9 and the tunnels in Walk 12.

EMERGENCIES

      The following services may be of help should problems arise. Remember that calls made from a public phone require a coin or prepaid phone card to be inserted, though no charge is made for the short numbers or those starting 800, which are toll free.

       Polizia (police) Tel 113

       For health-related emergencies, including ambulance service (ambulanza) and mountain rescue Tel 118.

       CAI Soccorso Alpino, the mountain and speleological rescue service run by qualified volunteers from the Italian Alpine Club, can be contacted on Tel [phone] or 095-643430 for the Catania area, and on cell Tel [phone] for the Palermo region. The service is available to everyone, however those other than members of CAI and affiliated associations covered by insurance will be billed.

       The high risk of fire in the long, dry summer months means that open fires of any nature are totally banned throughout Sicily’s park areas, often on a permanent basis. Forest and bush fires should be reported to the Vigili del Fuoco (fire brigade) on Tel 115 or to the Corpo Forestale dello Stato (State Forestry Department) on Tel 1515.

       ‘Aiuto!’ is ‘Help!’ in Italian, and ‘Pericolo!’ means ‘Danger!’

Reaching Sicily

      By plane

      Sicily is served by both low-cost and regular airlines from overseas, along with the odd charter flight in summer. Alternatively travellers can fly in to other main Italian destinations such as Rome and reach Sicily by a connecting domestic flight. The island’s two useful airports are listed below with their websites, which give the companies that use them.

      Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino airport at Punta Raisi (