Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller

depending on personal preference. It should be comfortable, close-fitting and light, and you must understand how to fasten it correctly. It is strongly recommended that a full-body harness be used for children, or by adults who carry a lot of weight around the waist. In the event of a fall, this form of harness will reduce the possibility of the via ferratist turning upside down. If this happens with an inadequately tightened sit harness, there is a risk that the climber may fall out of it.

      Climbing helmet

      This should be worn at all times while on the via ferrata or below steep rock. Adjust the helmet for comfort before starting the route.

      Three VF lanyards; two with friction plates (left and middle) and one with a progressive tearing device (right)

      Via ferrata shock-absorbing lanyard

      This consists of a shock-absorbing mechanism and two lengths of kernmantle rope or climbing webbing, on the ends of which are special karabiners designed for via ferratas. The shock-absorbing element may consist of a metal friction device through which the rope runs, or a sealed length of webbing bonded together by stitching, which absorbs energy by progressively tearing apart when put under extreme pressure. A number of these kits are now available from various climbing equipment manufacturers. The style of via ferrata lanyard detailed above is known as ‘Y-shape’. You may encounter the older ‘V-shape’ via ferrata lanyard, where only one half of the lanyard was clipped onto the cable at once. These are now considered obsolete and should be avoided. It is possible to construct a via ferrata lanyard by yourself, but instructions on how to do so are beyond the scope of this book, and it is not recommended.

      A via ferrata lanyard attached to the belay loop of a sit harness by a lark’s foot knot

      The via ferrata lanyard should be attached to the belay loop of your harness via a lark’s foot knot. Never use a karabiner to attach the via ferrata lanyard to the harness. In the event that such a karabiner is shock-loaded by a dynamic fall, there is a chance that it may break. Any via ferrata lanyard that has been placed under significant stress, such as from holding a fall, is excessively worn, or that has passed its use-by date, should be replaced. Read the instructions that come with the lanyard and follow them. See Moving safely for information on how to use the lanyard correctly.

      Taking a rest on the balance beam near the top of Via Ferrata du Grand Bec 1ère Partie, while still securely attached to the cable by a via ferrata lanyard (Route 43, Stage B)

      Rest lanyard

      In addition to the via ferrata lanyard you should carry another lanyard to hang off when taking a rest in exposed positions. The via ferrata lanyard is typically too long for this purpose and it is better not to put the shock-absorbing element under unnecessary strain. Some proprietary via ferrata lanyards come with an additional loop fitted below the shock absorber, to which a screwgate karabiner can be attached to construct a rest lanyard. With such a design, it is imperative that, when not being used to rest on, the karabiner be left hanging rather than attached to your harness, as this may bypass the shock absorber.

      To construct your own rest lanyard, use either a quickdraw with a screwgate karabiner on each end or a climbing sling with one screwgate karabiner. The sling should be attached to the belay loop of your harness via a lark’s foot knot and be just long enough to allow you to rest at a comfortable distance from the rockface. The rest lanyard is intended to assist with resting only, and under no circumstances should be used in place of a shock-absorbing via ferrata lanyard. It will not protect you from the effects of a dynamic fall.

      Tyrolean traverse pulley

      Routes 15 and 37 both contain an optional Tyrolean traverse, designed to be used with a specific model of pulley. Unfortunately, the models differ, with Route 15 requiring a Petzl Tandem Cable pulley (yellow), and Route 37 a Petzl Tandem Speed pulley (grey). Details of these devices can be found at www.petzl.com. You will also need thick full-finger gloves. See Tyrolean traverses for more information on how to use the pulley.

      Additional equipment required for a Tyrolean traverse: pulley, screwgate karabiner and full-finger gloves

      SAFETY CHECK

      Before purchasing or using any of the equipment listed above check that it is certified to EN Standard or UIAA Standard, how long the item has been in stock (components have a shelf-life), and that it has not been subject to a product recall. There were recalls of well-recognised brands of via ferrata lanyards in both 2011 and 2012, some of which may still be on sale from retailers unaware of those recalls. To check which items have been affected, see www.theuiaa.org/certified_equipment. Always buy your via ferrata gear from a high-quality retailer and always check it before, during and after use. If in any doubt whatsoever, replace it.

      Gloves

      Whether or not you choose to wear gloves is a matter of personal preference. They will offer protection against general wear as well as cuts caused by frayed cables (which are rare), but may give less grip than bare hands. There are a number of brands of fingerless gloves designed specifically for via ferratas.

      Footwear

      There is no specific type of via ferrata shoe and you may see people wearing a wide variety of footwear on the routes, from light sandals to heavy mountaineering boots. Whatever you wear, it should be comfortable, and give good grip on rock, ideally with a Vibram sole. Although trainers will often suffice, stiff walking or summer mountaineering boots will probably offer more grip and protection. Larger boots are recommended for the handful of longer mountain routes, such as Via Ferrata Le Roc du Vent (Route 12), but may feel a bit bulky on the more delicate passages found on some via ferratas. Rock-climbing shoes are not required for any of the routes, but may be worth considering on some of the most difficult, particularly for shorter climbers who will be required to use rock holds more often. Rock-climbing approach shoes offer a good compromise, but are expensive. Regular use of via ferratas tends to wear through the soles used on climbing and mountaineering footwear rather quickly.

      Clothing

      This should be appropriate to the mountainous situation and current weather forecast. Even when mild, it is sensible to carry a warm and waterproof coat, in case of a sudden change in the weather. Via ferratas can take a heavy toll on garments, so whatever you wear should be durable. Before setting off ensure that there is nothing loose in your pockets, any zips are done up, and laces are tightly fastened. Spectacle wearers should consider securing their glasses with a small lanyard.

      The following additional items are recommended: mobile phone, whistle, water bottle, emergency blanket, pen and paper, compass, sunscreen, small medical kit and a camera (preferably with an anti-shake feature and on a lanyard to secure it). Consider taking a length of lightweight climbing rope, a belay device and some quickdraws if your party contains children or climbers that require extra security (see Roped progression).

      Hiring via ferrata equipment

      Via ferrata kits can be hired throughout the region, and in most cases there will be somewhere close to each route that hires out the necessary gear. Local tourist offices often rent out the equipment or will be able to advise on where it can be obtained. Usually, you will be required to leave a deposit of around €20, or your passport. As with your own equipment, thoroughly check all hired gear for any signs of damage prior to use. See above for information on recalled via ferrata lanyards. These should be hired only if you are satisfied