Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller

C Useful French words and phrases

       Appendix D Useful contacts

      Enjoying views of Mont Blanc from near the top of the Falaise de Curalla (Route 7)

      INTRODUCTION

      The Pointe de Chardonnière (2723m) and Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, seen from the Barme aux Corbés (Route 6)

      The sheer beauty and variety of the French Alps are compelling reasons to visit and explore some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe. Much visited for winter sports and mountaineeering (and a favourite destination for skiers), the region also offers great opportunities for summer mountaineering activity, hill walking and now via ferratas. Experienced users of via ferratas, looking for a new region to explore, will find plenty of inspiration in this book. Alternatively, if you are planning a holiday in the area and want to try your hand at something different, the easier routes described here will provide a sound introduction to this increasingly popular activity.

      Modern via ferratas originate in the Italian Dolomites and were first created in the late 19th century to assist early tourists with mountaineering ascents by replacing ropes with fixed cables and metal rungs. The system was then adopted in World War I to allow the conduct of warfare from the mountaintops by Italian and Austrian troops. In more recent times they have been rediscovered by Italian mountaineering enthusiasts and, in the late 1980s, the first routes were constructed in France.

      The via ferratas of the Italian Dolomites can be quite different from the French routes. The former tend to be fixed mountaineering paths, most similar to summer mountaineering routes, whereas the latter are more likely to be sports routes, closer to scrambling or rock climbing. French via ferratas often seek out the steepest and most vertigo-inducing terrain, requiring a reasonable level of fitness and a decent head for heights.

      While some of these routes may challenge even experienced rock climbers, the majority should be within the reach of any strong hillwalker. The quality of the fixed protection found on the routes, in the form of cables, rungs and other more exotic elements, is normally very high. This standard is maintained by regular checks carried out under the direction of the local authority and ensures that, if properly used, you should have a safe and enjoyable excursion. Bon courage!

When to go

      The via ferratas described in this book are located over a fairly large area, and the range of altitudes at which they are found, from 200m to over 2700m above sea level, is also considerable. A few of the routes may be practicable all year; most, however, will be open from spring until late autumn. In practice, this will vary to a large degree, depending on altitude, latitude and, above all, weather. As the area is predominantly mountainous, the weather can be hard to predict, with heavy snowfall possible, even during high summer. During spring and early summer there may be packed snow on higher-altitude routes. In autumn the weather may well be settled and reasonably warm, but there is also the chance that higher routes may have some fresh snow on them.

      The information box at the top of each route lists its recommended season. A handful of routes are also subject to local by-laws (Arrêté Municipal), governing when they may be accessed. Where such restrictions apply, this is also noted at the top of the route. Periodically, routes may also be closed for maintenance.

      Satisfied via ferratists enjoy views of the Massif des Bornes from the top of the Via Ferrata Yves Pollet Villard (Route 9)

      The French high season runs from early July to late August, with the first two weeks of August being busiest. Routes will be more crowded during this period and accommodation will fill up more quickly. During spring and autumn, accommodation prices are lower, and availability is rarely a problem. September can be a good time to visit, although some tourist services start to close towards the end of the month.

Getting to the Alps

      There are plenty of good road, rail and air links between the UK and the French Alps and travel between the two has never been easier. A passport is required to enter France and should be kept on your person at all times as a form of ID (a legal requirement). UK, Irish and other EU citizens do not require a visa. Citizens of the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand can visit the country for up to 90 days without a visa. For further information on entry requirements see www.diplomatie.gouv.fr.

      The most conveniently located airport with flights to and from the UK is Geneva. Grenoble and Chambéry currently receive flights from the UK only over the winter (but it may be worth checking if there is a summer schedule when planning your trip). Further afield, Lyon, Nice, Marseille, Basel and Turin all have direct air links with a number of UK airports. Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) offers fast trains that run directly between London and Paris. From there, the French high-speed train (TGV) and local rail network (www.voyages-sncf.com) have links with many of the destinations covered in this book.

      It is possible to reach Paris from the UK by bus (www.eurolines.co.uk), which is normally cheaper than Eurostar. There are also buses from the UK to Geneva, Basel, Turin and Aosta. There are numerous ferries between the UK and France, with the Dover to Calais route offering the shortest sea journey (see www.directferries.co.uk for a list of connections). Allow seven to nine hours for the journey from the northern French ports to the Alps.

      The Arvieux Valley and western Queyras Massif, seen from the Col d’Izoard (above Route 63)

Getting around

      While it is possible to visit many of these routes without the use of a car or public transport, this will not be practical for most people. Travelling by car or motorbike remains by far the most convenient way to visit the area covered. A number of the routes are in remote locations that are not well served by buses or trains.

      By car

      France has an extensive network of well-maintained roads that, by British standards, can be eerily quiet. A toll is levied on most motorways (Autoroutes) but other roads are mostly free of any charge. Some of the high alpine passes may not be open during the early spring until clear of snow, and may be closed on certain days during the summer for the Tour de France and other events. See Appendix D for websites that give details of such closures.

      There is not space here to set out all of the rules of the road, but you should familiarise yourself with them prior to travelling; any infringement of regulations is now taken very seriously by the French police. See www.driving.drive-alive.co.uk for more information. All right-hand drive vehicles must have deflectors affixed to their headlights to avoid dazzling oncoming traffic. Non-French registered vehicles must also display their country of registration (for example GB sticker or plate). Additionally, drivers are required to carry the following: driving licence, proof of vehicle ownership and proof of insurance. Note that French police can stop and search vehicles or ask to see proof of identity. It is a legal requirement that a warning triangle be carried in the car as well as a high-visibility vest for each occupant, which should be kept within reach. From July 2012, it is also mandatory to carry two breathalyser kits in the car.

      You should consider carrying snow chains if visiting at any time other than during high summer. They are compulsory in mountainous areas during the winter. If you are hiring a car, you should check that all the aforementioned items are included