Название | Via Ferratas of the French Alps |
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Автор произведения | Richard Miller |
Жанр | Спорт, фитнес |
Серия | |
Издательство | Спорт, фитнес |
Год выпуска | 0 |
isbn | 9781849657761 |
Access
Drive to Passy, some 15km west of Chamonix and the Mont Blanc tunnel. From Passy, follow signs for Plateau-d’Assy on a road (D43) that ascends the hillside to the north Just after the plateau is reached and the road levels off, look out for a signpost for the via ferrata indicating a left turn up the Chemin de Curalla. After 300m, park on the left.
Approach
Follow a steep path, turning first right then left at signposted junctions.
The Pont du Varan and Pont d’Assy
Route
Climb up the cliff-face for 35m, making use of abundant fixed protection, until the route levels off. Then follow a gently rising traverse across a series of narrow ledges for 50m. This quickly becomes quite exposed, but is otherwise fairly easy. The ledges disappear and a gap of 18m is crossed by a three-wire bridge, the Pont de Varan. Immediately beyond this a second gap of 7m is crossed by a two-wire bridge, the Pont d’Assy. Both bridges are a little slack and the brief move between the two, which passes around a corner, is one of the most strenuous parts of the route.
Crossing the Pont de Varan with the Aiguille Verte (4122m) in the background
Beyond the bridges, the route passes over a balance beam and continues with a long rising traverse, interspersed with brief vertical sections of climbing. This is well protected where necessary and not particularly strenuous. There are several places where it is possible to rest. Having gained quite a bit of height, cross a second balance beam and pass around a corner. Overcome a third balance beam and climb up for 15m to the top of the cliff. This final climb is the most exposed and strenuous part of the route, so if you are feeling tired take a break and admire the views before going around the corner.
Return
Head east until a broad track is reached. Descend to return to the parking, or alternatively ascend for 30mins to visit the Refuge de Varan.
ROUTE 8
Via Ferrata de la Tour du Jallouvre
Location | Le Grand-Bornand, Haute-Savoie (GPS: Lat. 45º 59’ 20.53” N Long. 6º 28’ 3.49" E) |
Length | 1100m |
Ascent/Descent | 620m |
Route grading | technical grade: 4; exposure: 5; seriousness: C |
Total time | 4hrs 30mins (approach: 30mins; route: 3hrs; return: 1hr) |
Highest altitude | 2040m |
Map | 3430ET |
Technical notes | direction: SW; escape points: 1 |
When to visit | Closed 15 November–15 May |
Useful website | www.legrandbornand.com |
This is the perfect via ferrata for mountain lovers. The route scales the steep southeastern flanks of the Pic de Jallouvre (2408m), one of the pale limestone peaks of the Aravis Massif, and offers extensive views of the surrounding mountain ranges. The via ferrata is of high quality and makes good use of the heavily eroded karstic terrain. It is fairly long, occasionally strenuous, and in its latter stages, supremely exposed. Although there is an escape path part-way along, the outing should be undertaken only by those in a decent state of fitness and when the weather forecast is good. In addition to the fine views, your efforts should be rewarded by a close encounter with yellow-billed choughs (a relative of the crow), chamois or Alpine ibex. This latter species of hardy mountain goat is known in France as a bouquetin.
Access
From Annecy, follow the D909 to St-Jean-de-Sixt and then the D4 to Le Grand-Bornand. Continue on the D4 in the direction of the Col de la Colombière for around 10km (passing through Le Chinaillon). Shortly before the col, there is a parking area with a via ferrata information panel to the left of the road. The route can be started from here, or alternatively – for a more level approach path – drive on for 1km to a hairpin bend. Park on the left, next to some piles of rubble.
Approach
The path from the lower parking is well signposted and descends and then ascends the shallow valley between the car park and the southwest end of the cliff-face opposite. From the higher parking area, follow an unmarked path running parallel to the cliff-face (which contains several bolted sports climbing routes) until the first cable is encountered.
Route
Start by following a leftwards rising traverse that gradually bends around the cliff-face. Other than a few short steps progress is straightforward until the cable leads across some large slabs beneath an overhang (Arche du Bouquetin). The climb through the overhang is brief but quite arduous due to the placement of the rungs, which are fairly small. Some smeary holds on the slightly polished rock may be helpful to shorter climbers.
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