Ridges of Snowdonia. Steve Ashton

      As above.

      ROUTE DESCRIPTION

      This shorter route over Carnedd Llewelyn, though hardly comparable with the original, is a useful alternative if time is short or the weather doubtful.

      Use the surfaced access road to gain leat waterway and follow it to the right to a footbridge. Cross here, bear rightwards uphill, then contour to a gap in the transverse stone wall (699609), beyond which the ridge path asserts itself.

      Near the top of Y Braich, a path cuts across left to gain Bwlch Eryl Farchog directly. This avoids the extra ascent to Pen yr Helgi Du. Thereafter the route continues as for the original way, in reverse, to the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn.

      The route then continues along the ridge to Bwlch Cyfryw Drum (678633) before breaking off on a broad ridge which descends south-east to Ffynnon Llygwy. Care is needed here in bad weather to avoid a band of crags above the lake. If in doubt, track southwards, returning to the shore only after reaching level ground. The access road begins on the far side of the concrete culvert, and after a short level section drops steadily down to the A5 at a calf-cramping, toe-burning angle.

      VARIANT (B): PEN YR OLE WEN, SOUTH RIDGE

      An uncompromisingly steep and direct route to the summit, compensated by superb views of the Glyders.

      Distance/Time:

      No significant differences.

      Main Summer Difficulties:

      Short sections of scrambling – easy but loose.

      Winter Conditions:

      South facing and therefore usually free of snow in the lower, more difficult sections. Best avoided under ice or deep snow.

      Special Problems:

      Dislodging stones onto parties below.

      A cloud sea fills the Ogwen Valley below the south ridge of Penyr Ole Wen (Route A2 (b))

      Start:

      Ogwen Cottage car park (649604). Overspill parking in laybys to east.

      Finish:

      Summit of Pen yr Ole Wen.

      ROUTE DESCRIPTION

      The ascent starts from the Alfred Embleton stile on the A5, on the north side of the bridge over the Afon Ogwen. There are a puzzling few moments at first – getting up or around little crags – but then only the brutal and unremitting grind up a well-worn path to the summit. Not that it is all punishment: there are wonderful views back down to the valley and across to the Glyders, especially breathtaking (if you’ve any left to give) in the evening or when mist fills the cwms.

      A3: CARNEDDAU: WESTERN RIDGES

      Gentle walking around some of the less frequented Carneddau ridges.

      Distance/Time:

      14km (8½ miles). 4½ hours.

      Ascent:

      1000m (3300ft)

      Major Summits:

      Carnedd Dafydd – 1044m (3423ft)

      Carnedd Llewelyn – 1064m (3485ft)

      Yr Elen – 961m (3153ft)

      Terrain:

      Grass, stony paths, and one very wet section.

      Main Summer Difficulties:

      Descending from Yr Elen.

      Winter Conditions:

      Not recommended under deep snow, when a crossing of Cwm Llafar could be quite problematical.

      Emergency Alternatives:

      Descent into Cwm Llafar from Bwlch Cyfryw Drum (683637).

      Special Problems:

      Navigating onto Yr Elen from Carnedd Llewelyn in bad visibility.

      Approach:

      From Bethesda on the A5. Turn uphill from crossroads at the eastern town limit. Turn right at the crossroads after 1km and find a parking place in a narrow lane, taking care not to obstruct gates or passing places.

      Start:

      See Approach.

      Finish:

      As above.

      ROUTE DESCRIPTION

      At the end of the road there is a stile just right of the waterworks gate; another at the top left corner of the field; and a third soon after. The route then follows a stream bed (literally!) through a culvert, and then takes a drier path to more open terrain. A vague path parallel to the Afon Llafar leads over boggy ground, rising steadily, to a final stile, where the head of Cwm Lafar comes into view (½ hr).

      The Cwm Llafar horseshoe seen from above Gerlan (Route A3)

      A little further on, break up right to gain the ridge at a grass mound; and then follow it in its entirety to Carnedd Dafydd – first along a grass crest, then more steeply over boulders, and finally on the scree dome of the summit1 (1½ hrs).

      Circle the head of Cwm Llafar, along a rocky path above the cliffs of Ysgolion Duon, to a shallow col, Bwlch Cyfryw Drum2 – below Carnedd Llewelyn. Continue up the scree path to the summit3 (1 hr).

      Head tentatively north of west to find the path leading to Yr Elen. It goes down to the col4 above Llyn Caseg before rising – curving rightwards – to the flat summit.5 Descend a blunt ridge on the west side, keeping on the left (Cwm Llafar) flank when in doubt, to a level and grassy section. Continue along this shallow ridge, passing two rock bluffs.6 Either descend immediately into Cwm Llafar and gain the track on the far side, or continue along the shallow ridge to its end before crossing. Both are wet. Return as for the ascent (1½ hrs).

      Bethesda is a sorry place. It seems always to be raining here, so that the main street twists through a hotch-potch of buildings like some grimy northern canal. Trapped by that vision, its people are wearing long coats and longer faces as they patrol the towpath. Car drivers wind up their windows and weave a way through, fearful of stopping in case they never get started again. The National Park boundary skirts the town limits and tries to look the other way.

      Pinned to the hillside above Bethesda is the suburb of Gerlan; its funny little houses painted blue and pink, and so bound up with the earth that it is difficult to tell where the soil ends and their walls begin. Gerlan is the Shangri La of North Wales, for two decades perfectly preserving its community of hippies and drop-outs. The place absorbs oddities as readily as the sea.

      Gerlan has proliferated to such a degree that its uppermost house-holders are able to gaze into the sacred confines of Cwm Llafar. But, as it happens, not many of them do; and so the path up from Gerlan waterworks into Cwm Llafar remains one of the quieter places in Snowdonia.

      The right-bounding ridge of the cwm begins almost straight away and yet the valley path is much too comfortable to quit so early. Lazy men’s ways. Sooner or later, though, it must be abandoned for a short pull onto the neat and pathless grass of the ridge top. Over to the right now, beyond a shallow scoop in the mountainside, appears a mirage of exotic slabs. The slabs prove to be those of Carnedd y Filiast, a familiar landmark of the western end of the Glyders; and yet from here they seem much too close for that, as if the intervening Ogwen Valley had been secretly filled in during the night.