Ridges of Snowdonia. Steve Ashton

Carnedd Dafydd is only half an hour or so away; but the day is already long enough without tacking on any summit-bagging excursions. Yr Elen, too, is left untrodden; but it is no less shapely for it when, on the way north towards Foel Grach, its simple outline materialises beyond the ungainly dome of Carnedd Llewelyn.

      There is a distant sense of return now; an inevitability of success which supercedes even the weariness of a hot afternoon and the slow drag of feet over tufted slopes. Foel Grach is near, but unnecessary; instead the slope falls away to a broad shoulder between friendly Eigiau on one side, and the unknown hollows of Dulyn and Melynllyn on the other. Only a growing awareness of scale allows you to interpret this plateau as a ridge. There, in mist, you might wander for ten minutes in any one direction without noticing a change of slope. On a clear day, though, a distant thin line of crags will betray the edge known to exist above Llyn Eigiau. Here is one last chance to feel rock and sit on summits; and at one minor top, a rare opportunity to retrace the whole walk backwards as far as its misty beginnings on the ridge of Pen Llithrig y Wrach, which is now quite near again – in distance if not in time or recollection. Enough: the lower cwm is already in view, lost in a sea of grass even the dam wall could not restrain.

      VARIANT (A): APPROACH THROUGH CWM EIGIAU

      A gentle valley walk followed by a steep, heathery scramble.

      Distance/Time:

      Reduces overall distance by 2½ km (1½ miles) and saves ½ hour.

      Terrain:

      An easy track, then boulders, culminating in a heather slope crossed by rough paths.

      Main Summer Difficulties:

      Scrambling on a headwall.

      Winter Conditions:

      A notorious slope – not recommended.

      Feral ponies in Cwm Eigiau (Route A1 (a))

      Special Problems:

      Route-finding on scrambling section.

      Start:

      At the Eigiau dam (723649).

      Finish:

      Bwlch Eryl Farchog (695633) – junction with normal route.

      ROUTE DESCRIPTION

      A faster and scenically different approach to Carnedd Llewelyn can be made by continuing up Cwm Eigiau before striking up to the col between Pen yr Helgi du and Craig yr Ysfa.

      The track from the dam sluice gates continues up Cwm Eigiau – passing numerous quarry tips – as far as a group of ruined buildings below the steep inner flank of Pen yr Helgi Du. Ahead rises the massive Craig yr Ysfa, the stone-filled slot of its Amphitheatre very obvious in the centre and emptying into a broad scree fan.

      The ascent to the col on the left of the crag is not obvious. The easiest way begins first by gaining the foot of the lowest buttress left of the Amphitheatre. The path, certain then to be found, can now be followed up leftwards over heather slopes (undulating at first) until well left of the cliffs. From here it begins to wind up the slope – still trending left and crossing heathery ribs and runnels – towards the col.

      VARIANT (B): DESCENT TO ABER

      A long, undulating ridge descent from Carnedd Llewelyn to the coast.

      Distance/Time:

      Increases overall distance by 7km (4½ miles), adding 1¾ hours.

      Terrain:

      Fast going along good paths and tracks.

      Main Summer Difficulties:

      Length.

      Winter Conditions:

      Tiring under deep snow.

      Special Problems:

      Route-finding in bad visibility.

      Yr Elen seen from Garnedd Uchaf during the variant descent to Aber (Route A1 (b))

      Start:

      Carnedd Llewelyn.

      Finish:

      Roadhead above Aber (676716). Adequate parking.

      ROUTE DESCRIPTION

      Were it not for complications over transport, this pleasant descent towards the coast would be a more attractive finish than the normal way.

      From Llewelyn, the route first makes its way over Foel Grach. A little beyond the summit, tucked beneath small crags on the north side, is the stone-built Foel Grach Refuge. This has the bare necessities of door, roof, and visitors book in which to enter a banal commentary on your situation.

      Beyond the refuge, the ridge continues as a broad arm – grass walls, fences, summits, stones – as far as Drum, the last summit of significance. From here the ridge continues to its bitter end above the car park; or it can be quitted for the track leading down from the small reservoir tucked in the hollow down left.

      A2: CARNEDDAU: SOUTHERN RIDGES

      A popular ridge walk over the highest Carneddau summits.

      Distance/Time:

      16km (10 miles). 5¼ hours.

      Ascent:

      1050m (3500ft)

      Major Summits:

      Pen yr Ole Wen – 979m (3211ft)

      Carnedd Dafydd – 1044m (3423ft)

      Carnedd Llewelyn – 1064m (3485ft)

      Pen yr Helgi Du – 833m (2733ft)

      Terrain:

      Mostly good going over grass and stony paths.

      Main Summer Difficulties:

      Three short scrambles: on Pen yr Ole Wen, and on either side of Bwlch Eryl Farchog.

      Winter Conditions:

      An excellent outing in good winter conditions. However, under deep powder the scrambling sections are awkward and the whole route tiring. Cornices can form above Cwm Lloer and above Ysgolion Duon.

      A large party approaches the east ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen on Route A2

      Emergency Alternatives:

      Descent to Ffynnon Llugwy as for Variant (a). Descent into Cwm Llafar from Bwlch Cyfryw Drum (683637). Descent to Ffynnon Llugwy from Bwlch Eryl Farchog (695633).

      Special Problems:

      Route-finding on Carnedd Llewelyn in bad visibility.

      Approach:

      On the A5 between Capel Curig and Bethesda.

      Start:

      Glan Dena (668605). Parking on main road.

      Finish:

      As above.

      ROUTE DESCRIPTION

      The track from Glan Dena continues to Tal y Llyn Ogwen. Just before reaching this farm, a path goes up right – over a stile – and strikes up the hillside towards Cwm Lloer. Shortly before levelling out, it veers left and rises to meet the blunt terminating nose of the east ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen. After a short scramble up a gully cleaving this nose, the path eases and winds up through boulders and heather to the summit1 (1½ hrs).

      From the summit, a stony path circles above Cwm Lloer before rising – past a huge cairn – towards Carnedd