Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 1 - Western Alps. Bill O'Connor

      The Search

       Appoint a search leader.

       Stay calm.

       Assess the whole situation and ensure the safety of the rest of the party. Visually scour the avalanche to see if you can see the victim/s – they may re-emerge lower down the slope. They may only be partially buried, in which case there's no need to instigate a transceiver search.

       Organise the search based on observed facts, number buried, vanishing points and terrain.

       Begin the search as soon as possible. Eyes and ears as well as transceivers should be used.

       Switch off transceivers not in use if it is safe to do so.

       Maintain a controlled search pattern. Don't give up – despite the statistics victims have been recovered alive after very long periods of burial. Ensure a total and thorough search of the area. The victim may not be in the obvious deposition zone.

       Alert rescue services. They may be needed to evacuate victims, give medical help or search.

      Immediate Response To Victims

      Adequate primary care requires correct training in first aid. Ideally everyone should have this.

       Free the head and chest of the buried victim as soon as possible.

       Ensure they can and are breathing.

       If not give artificial respiration (CPR). Continue resuscitation until medical help arrives.

       Lay the person down correctly.

       Treat injuries where possible.

       Protect from further loss of body heat.

       Continue to observe the victim for any change in status.

       Evacuate to safety if required.

      Signalling to a helicopter: note the skier is kneeling in front of a large flat area, back to the wind, with arms raised in a Y

Helicopter Rescue

      If there is an accident on tour that requires rescue assistance, helicopter is the recommended option. When someone is injured speed and safety are paramount. Trying to carry out self-rescue with an improvised stretcher, especially over difficult terrain, is complicated and slow, and may well result in further injury. It is important to know how to carry out such a rescue and be proficient at it, but it is not the best option when helicopter rescue is possible.

      Helicopters have their limits, however, and require safe conditions to carry out a rescue. Poor weather conditions will restrict their safe operational use. In poor visibility, strong winds, and in snowy or icy conditions they may not be able to operate. However, the pilots of rescue helicopters carry out some remarkable missions. They should only be called in for an emergency or forced evacuation – do not endanger their lives unecessarily.

      Insurance

      The cost of emergency rescue, medical treatment, and repatriation, if necessary, varies from country to country, and you will need appropriate insurance to ensure that you are adequately covered. The BMC (Tel. [phone], www.thebmc.co.uk) and AAC (Tel. [phone], www.hbinsurance.co.uk) both provide travel insurance: make sure it covers ski mountaineering, not simply piste skiing.

      What Information Do Rescuers Require?

      If possible write down your message before calling for rescue. The information you give needs to be accurate, precise and concise, and writing it down will ensure this. It should include:

       name of person in charge/communicating with rescue base

       your position with grid reference

       your telephone number if phoning from a mobile

       number of people involved

       the name of the person/s injured

       the nature of the accident/?injuries

       specific casualty requirements if known

       weather conditions at the site of the accident, including wind speed, visibility, cloud level, precipitation, etc

       information on whether a helicopter landing at the site is possible.

      Safety Procedures on the Ground

       Never approach the helicopter when the rotor blade is moving.

       Do not approach the helicopter until told to do so by a member of the crew.

       Stay low or in a kneeling position with your back to the wind.

       Only approach the helicopter in the direction indicated by the pilot or crew member. It is usual to kneel up-wind, head on to the helicopter.

       Never approach from the rear of the machine or out of sight of the crew.

       Ensure that there is no loose equipment or clothing on the ground or on the person/s close to the helicopter.

      Distress signals and ideal layout for helicopter rescue

      The diagram above shows the ideal layout of the rescue site and the arm signals used to communicate with a helicopter.

      In the mountains it is difficult to ensure flat ground. Remember a helicopter cannot land on steep slopes. It is important to stay below the pick-up area if the rescue is on a slope, since the helicopter may have to hover and winch the casualty aboard. The rotor blades may come very close to the slope above the rescue, so stay out of this zone. Stay below it and kneel.

      Once inside the helicopter enjoy the view because it will be an expensive ride. Helicopter rescue is costly, so it is essential to have adequate insurance cover.

A Safety Strategy for Ski Mountaineering

      As a mountain guide my own approach to safety is best summed up as the application of the three Ps: planning, preparation and practice. This may not be rocket science, but it is certainly a combination of science, common sense and experience, which translates quite simply into ‘best practice’.

      Looking towards the deep cleft of the Col du Chardonnet between the Aiguilles Chardonnet (L) and Argentière (R) – seen from the Col du Grands Montets

      Common Errors

      Mountains can be dangerous – in winter and spring particularly so. But one of the great pleasures derived from ski mountaineering is the ability to journey safely over Alpine terrain that would be all but impossible without skis. Ski mountaineering accidents, alas, are all too frequent, with avalanches accounting for a high number of fatalities. By looking at the accident reports it is possible to identify a number of common errors (see box). Hopefully we can learn from these.

      COMMON ERRORS

       Wrong stability evaluation – in one study, over a five-year period, over 60% of avalanche fatalities were the result of wrong stability evaluation.

       Triggering the avalanche – most skiers caught in avalanches triggered the avalanche themselves.

       Taking uneccesary risks – in particular being on the wrong terrain and discounting evidence of snow instability that was contrary to what the skiers wanted to believe.

       Avalanching other members of the same group by triggering a slope above others.

       Failure to snow profile