Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 1 - Western Alps. Bill O'Connor

I use a Mountain Equipment Paclite Jacket.

       Shell pants – either lightweight gore-tex or another breathable fabric. If you opt not to use touring pants but instead prefer technical shell pants worn over fleece pants, then I would opt for full-zip zipped gore-tex pants with braces. These can then be zipped on and off even over skis. Because I use touring pants I carry only very lightweight full side-zipped shell pants (Mountain Equipment Drilite Pants) for emergency use only.

       Socks (x2) – one pair to wear and one pair spare. With well-fitting ski mountaineering boots you need only wear one pair of socks.

       Ski gloves (x2) – I carry one pair technical ski gloves plus a lighter windproof fleece pair. Make sure gloves are not too tight fitting. Hands tend to swell when skiing, and when wet they are difficult to push inside tight gloves. Loose linings are also a bad idea, as they generally pull out when you take the gloves off and are difficult to refit.

       Sun hat – ideally with neck protection – this is particularly important later in the season when the sun's strength can be enervating.

       Warm hat – ideally this should protect ears and side of face, and stay on in windy conditions.

       Neck/ear band.

       Lightweight down vest or jacket – (optional). These are ideal for sitting around cold huts or simply to pull on during a rest or lunch break. They weigh little, and in the case of an emergency can make all the difference. My favourite is the Mountain Equipment Lightline or Dewline Duvet.

      Hardware

       Skis – I prefer medium stiffness all-terrain skis with a wideish tip (circa 110) and a reasonable amount of side-cut offering a relatively short radius turn of about 20–22m. Wide, short and light seems to be the way to go.

       Touring binding – I currently use the Fritschi Diamir binding, as they offer great performance and ease of use. There are others available, and those wishing to go very lightweight should look at Dynafit Tourlite bindings. I like to have ski stops fitted and to carry safety straps.

       Harscheisen – removable crampons for your skis. They are usually specific to a given binding. It is possible to get by without them, but on icy mornings and for hard snow they save time and energy and increase safety.

       Skins – I prefer stick-on skins with a toe and tail attachment. If you change to fatter skis you should also change your skins for optimum climbing performance. You can buy skins custom shaped to fit carving-style skis. Make sure you have a stuff-bag to carry them in, and ensure you keep them clean and sticky.

       Ski poles – with powder baskets. I prefer one-piece poles, but two- or three-section poles are OK and pack away easily.

       Ski mountaineering boots – these should have a full climbing sole. Whatever boots you get they need to be comfortable for hiking on skis. I use Scarpa Denali, which although not the lightest on the market offer a high level of performance as a ski boot yet remain comfortable for walking.

       Custom liners – these provide optimum fit and performance if fitted correctly. I use them for ski touring.

       Custom footbeds – correctly fitted, they offer optimum comfort and performance. Most boots are supplied with relatively poor quality footbeds as standard.

       Rucksack – 45–60 litre with waistbelt and side attachments for carrying skis. Get a sack that holds all you intend to carry. Try not to have much attached to the outside apart from skis, ice axe and possibly a shovel – the risk of loosing things, especially in a fall is high.

       Water bottle/Thermos flask/hydration system – 1 litre minimum. If you opt for a hydration system ensure that the tube is insulated against cold, as they have a tendency to freeze up, leaving you unable to hydrate!

       Mountaineering harness – this should be large enough to fit over shell clothing and, ideally, have fully adjustable leg loops. Some skiers like a full body harness, but I feel the disadvantages outweigh the benefits. With a modern sit-harness inverting in a crevasse fall whilst carrying a rucksack is unlikely, especially when wearing skis.

       Lightweight headtorch – plus batteries and spare bulb.

       Ice axe – this should be suitable for self-arrest, belaying and whatever climbing the tour involves. Many lightweight axes are unsuitable for belaying and climbing but are ideal for self-arrest and ski races.

       Crampons – that fit your ski boots. Clip-on variety are ideal. Once again, choose crampons that suit the route. Many aluminum models, although lightweight and suitable for walking on snowy slopes, are unsuitable for climbing or hard snow, ice or mixed conditons.

       Ski/mountaineering sun glasses – high quality sunglasses that provide protection from light reflected off snow.

       Ski goggles – essential in poor conditions to provide full cover from wind-blown snow and ice particles.

       Sunscreen with high factor (20+).

       Lip cream.

      Improvised Rescue Equipment

      It is advisable that all members of a party to have the basic equipment to carry out crevasse or self-rescue – and know how to use it.

       Prusik loops (x3) – essential for glacier travel. As well as prusik loops there are various mechanical jamming devices available for improvised rescue. All require specific techniques and practice if they are to work efficiently.

       Lightweight pulley – essential for efficient improvised crevasse rescue.

       Screw gate karabiners (x4).

       Nylon belay slings (x2).

       Ice screws (x2).

      Stuff

       Spare batteries for transceiver/camera.

       Small washkit/toothbrush/paste/wet wipes.

       Emergency food – a couple of high-calorie bars.

       Personal first aid – Elastoplasts and painkillers as well as prescription drugs, if required. It is essential to be able to carry out on the spot treatment in case of cuts and blisters.

       Toilet paper.

       Passport (for some tours).

       Alpine Club Card or reciprocal rights card.

       Money.

       Camera and film (optional).

      Group Equipment

      These items should be shared out and carried by members of the party.

       Group first aid kit – in addition to small personal first aid kit.

       Bivouac shelter.

       Spare ski stick.

       Radio/telephone.

       Altimeter – having more than one in a party is ideal.

       Spare skin.

       Compasses/GPS – It is advisable to have at least two compasses on tour.

       Maps.

       Ropes – 2x30m for most tours unless the route involves specific requirements (for example, if there are several 50m abseils you will require 2x50m ropes).

       Repair kit – for skis and bindings, etc.

       Stove – (optional) the ability to heat water and food can sometimes be useful in an emergency.

       Sleeping bag – (optional) a lightweight zipped sleeping bag for emergency use in case of an accident.

ÉCRINS HAUTE ROUTE

      Though this rugged expanse of the Alps has long been popular with