Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 1 - Western Alps. Bill O'Connor

help simplify planning the following information is given at the start of each tour:

       start

       finish

       duration

       location

       difficulty

       best time for the tour

       facilities (accommodation and supplies)

       access

       maps.

      This is followed by route summary, detailing the key place names found on the map for each stage of the route. This useful for plotting the route when used in conjunction with the recommended 1:25,000 maps.

      The itinerary for each tour is broken down into recommended day stages. Each stage begins by giving details of:

       ascent

       descent

       principal aspect

       difficulty

       time.

      This is followed by a description of the day's stage. Describing a ski route is very different from describing summer climbs or walking routes. In summer, paths and features are clear and often waymarked. During the ski season many features including way-markings, outcrops, streams and paths will be buried under snow. Therefore ski-route descriptions are less prescriptive – snow conditions and ability will often decide the precise line of ascent or descent. Some routes are obviously determined by the terrain – say when it follows a valley, ridge or couloir – but the precise line will always be a matter of judgement or of following old tracks! When crossing untracked snow, the skier will have to call on skill and judgement to find the best line through crevasses or to make the most efficient and safest track on a snow-laden slope. Even if you know an area in summer, don't assume the ski track will follow the same route. Although maps and route descriptions can indicate crevasses, their precise position changes with the movement of the ice. At all times the ski mountaineer must be willing to make a judgement about route choice and snow stability – no guidebook can do that. One of the great things about ski touring is, no matter how popular the tour, after new snow you will always have a clean sheet to work with. At all times the ski mountaineer must be observant, paying particular attention to the critical factors of weather, terrain and snow conditions before committing to a specific route.

      Details of the routes are summarised in a table at the end of the book.

      Route-Finding

      The length and difficulty of a day stage as given in the guide can be changed. You may think the day too short or the ascent of a particular peak too demanding. With a little care it is always possible to alter the route to suit your needs and the prevailing conditions to ensure the safest route.

      If you decide not to follow the route exactly as described in the guide, you may be tempted to follow an existing ski track not yet filled in by fresh or windblown snow. Before following it, however, be in no doubt that the track is leading where you want to go. Many a skier has followed a trail carelessly only to arrive at the wrong col or summit! As a skier you have the option of making fresh tracks, both in ascent and descent, especially if the track in place takes a bad line or climbs inefficiently. It is satisfying to look back at a well-made track and know it is your own. On the descent, if too many tracks have trashed a fine slope it may be possible to make new ones, thus giving you the satisfaction of looking back at a set of cleanly carved turns – or not. Of course there is wisdom in following an established track through difficult terrain, say on a crevassed glacier or after heavy snowfall.

      Late spring or early summer on the Weissmeis. Conditions remain good for a ski ascent

      Maps and Diagrams

      Accompanying each route description is a route profile, a diagram giving a clear indication of the ups and downs involved in each day's touring. Combined with the sketch map and description this should provide a useful impression of the rhythm of the day's stage.

      The sketch maps of each tour will allow you to plan your route in conjunction with the route description and the recommended 1:25,000 or 1:50,000 maps. The sketch maps indicate cols, glaciers and significant spot heights mentioned in the text. They are not intended as a substitute for the recommended maps. They provide an indication of the route only.

      For each tour a particular map or set of maps is recommended. Unfortunately several of the tours require numerous maps. Ideally use those at 1:25,000 scale. The Swiss, in conjunction with their National Ski Federation, have produced special ski maps at 1:50,000 scale. These have ski routes marked and also have a wealth of information about routes printed on the back of the map. These are very useful. For general planning 1:100,000 scale maps are recommended. Although useless for navigation, unless you are in a car, they are ideal for plotting the route and getting a feeling for the areas surrounding a given tour.

      Huts and Other Useful Contacts

      A list of addresses and telephone numbers for each tour, including the telephone numbers of the Alpine huts mentioned in the route, is given at the end of the introduction to each tour. Specific details about huts have been included in the tour description where necessary. Also given at the end of each tour introduction is contact information for tourist offices, police, rescue services and weather information.

On Tour

      Always take time to consider the weather conditions, not just on the day you start but over the days and weeks before your tour. They will have an effect on the snowpack and your safety. The snowpack will, in turn, affect the difficulty of the route, the time a stage takes and the dangers that exist. No guidebook can cover all the variables. The descriptions are based on known routes done in stable conditions. Just occasionally conditions for a tour will be idyllic: perfect snow, few crevasses and a track in place, all of which will make for a direct route and a fast time. Much more likely is a varied mix of good and unskiable snow, blue sky and bad visibility, as well as easy or complex crevasse systems to negotiate. The key is to expect the unexpected and allow yourself time to deal with problems.

      Remember, if you can't see the slope ahead, be it an icefall, cliff, couloir or valley, it is all but impossible to make an informed judgement about the dangers you face or to ski it safely. In these conditions the best option may well be to stay put in the hut, read a book or practise a few rope skills nearby.

      Sunshine and drifting snow make for a pretty picture, but signal a clear warning to the aware ski mountaineer

      Times and Conditions

      The time given in the guide for any particular stage is an average one for a party of reasonably fit skiers moving steadily and climbing at around 300m per hour. Where appropriate they provide generous timings, rather than assuming a fast pace. The times given cannot take into account problems arising from poor fitness, skiing ability, navigation or conditions. In the unlikely event that any of these apply to your party you will need to adjust the tour accordingly.

      If you arrive at the Alps tired after travelling, and with no acclimatisation, the first few days may well feel tough. If you haven't toured for a year your equipment may feel unfamiliar – and like your legs might not work very well! As a friend of mine says: ‘Don't let your enthusiasm make appointments your legs and lungs can't keep!’

      Once on tour most skiers find they acclimatise quickly and become more efficient and familiar with their kit. It takes a while to fall into the delightful rhythm of skinning, carrying a rucksack and, of course, hut life. After a while you are likely to find that the times given in the guide seem more generous. However, that's as it should be. Remember, having time in hand means having a safety margin should problems arise.

      By late spring, when the days lengthen, it is normal to arrive back at the huts in the early afternoon with plenty of daylight left. It can feel