A Book of Voyages. Patrick O’Brian

all of whom may easily sit round the table, and the whole company may thus take an airing together along the walks of the garden, and many parts of the park, which are as level as a bowling-green. The machine, when thus loaded, is easily drawn by six or eight horses.

      Prince Estherhasie having heard of M. de Laval’s being in the garden, sent us an invitation to the opera, which was to be performed that evening; but as we had brought with us no dress proper for such an occasion, we were forced to decline this obliging invitation. The Prince afterwards sent a carriage, in which we drove round the garden and parks. These are of vast extent, and beautiful beyond description; arbours, fountains, walks, woods, hills, and valleys, being thrown together in a charming confusion. If you will look over Ariosto’s description of the gardens in Alcina’s enchanted island, you will have an idea of the romantic fields of Estherhasie, which are also inhabited by the same kind of animals.

       Tra le purpuree rose e i bianchi gigli,

       Che tepid aura freschi ognora serba,

       Sicuri si vedean lepri e conigli:

       E cervi con la fronte alta e superba,

       Senza temer che alcun li uccida o pigli,

       Pascono, e stansi ruminando l’erba:

       E saltan daini e capri snelli e destri,

       Che sono in copia in quei luoghi campestri.

      M. de Laval was in raptures with the gardens of Estherhasie. In the height of his admiration, I asked him how they stood in his opinion compared with those of Versailles?

      “Ah, Parbleu! Monsieur,” answered he, “Versailles étoit fait exprès pour n’être comparé à rien.” He acknowledged, however, without difficulty, that, except France, no other country he had seen was so beautiful as this.

      Having wandered here many hours, we returned to the inn, where a servant waited with Prince Estherhasie’s compliments, and a basket containing two bottles of Tokay, and the same quantity of Champaign and of Old Hock. We lamented very sincerely, that we could not have the honour of waiting on this very magnificent Prince, and thanking him personally for so much politeness.

      A company of Italian singers and actors were then at the inn, and preparing for the opera. Great preparations were making for the entertainment of the Empress and all the Court, who are soon to make a visit of several days to Estherhasie. Though the Imperial family, and many of the nobility, are to lodge in the palace, yet every corner of this large and commodious inn is already bespoke for the company which are invited upon that occasion.

      Hungary is a very cheap country, the land being infinitely fertile, and in some places producing the most esteemed grape in Europe. It is beautified with lakes, the windings of the Danube, and many streams which flow into that fine river. In the woods of Hungary are bred a race of horses, the most active, hardy, and spirited, for their size, in the world. These have been found very useful in war, and the hussars, or light dragoons of the Austrian army, are mounted on them.

      The men in Hungary are remarkably handsome, and well-shaped. Their appearance is improved by their dress, which you know is peculiar, and very becoming.

      Lady M. W. Montagu asserts, that the Hungarian women are far more beautiful than the Austrian. For my part, I think of women, as M. de Laval does of Versailles; that they are not to be compared with any thing, not even with one another. And therefore, without presuming to take a comparative view of their beauty, it may be remarked in general, that where the men are handsome and well-made, it is natural to suppose, that the women will possess the same advantages; for parents generally bestow as much attention to the making of their daughters as of their sons. In confirmation of which doctrine, I can assure you, that I have seen as handsome women, as men, in Hungary, and one of the prettiest women, in my opinion, at present at the Court of Vienna, is a Hungarian.

      None of the Empress’s subjects are taxed so gently, or enjoy so many privileges as the Hungarians. This is partly owing to the grateful remembrance she has of their loyalty and attachment in the days of her distress. But although this sentiment were not so strong in her breast as it really is, there are political reasons for continuing to them the same exemptions and privileges; for nothing can be more dangerous than disobliging the inhabitants of a frontier country, which borders on an inveterate enemy. Nor could any thing please the Turks more, than to find the hearts of the Hungarians alienated from the house of Austria.

      I found this country, and the company of M. de Laval, so very agreeable, that I should have been happy to have extended our excursion farther; but he is obliged to set out soon for Chamberry to pay his duty to the Comte d’Artois, who is expected there to wait on his future spouse, the Princess of Savoy. We therefore returned by the direct road from Estherhasie to Vienna.

       From DR. GEMELLI-CARERI’S

       TRAVELS THROUGH EUROPE

       In Several Letters to the Counsellor Amato Danio.

      Dr. Giovanni Francesco Gemelli-Careri was a doctor of civil law, sufficiently rich and leisured. Having travelled through Europe in 1686, he set out on a tour of the entire world, which he accomplished in 1698. He published his Giro del Mondo in six volumes octavo in Naples between 1699 and 1700; encouraged by its success, he brought out his Viaggi per Europa in two volumes, also at Naples, in 1701–04. In parenthesis, it might be worth observing that the Kingdom of Naples was, at that time, Spanish, which accounts for Dr. Gemelli-Careri’s “our Queen of Spain”.

      Both works were popular; in 1719 there was a new edition including both, in Venice, and there were more or less contemporary translations into French, German and English. The tour of the world first appeared in Churchill, vol. IV, and the travels through Europe in Churchill vol. VI (1732); his travels in China (taken out of the Giro del Mondo) appeared in Astley’s New General Collection in 1745. The only comparatively modern books in which he can be found are Macmillan’s The Globe Trotter in India two hundred years ago … (1895), which deals only with the doctor’s Indian travels, and A. Magnani’s Il viaggiatore Gemelli-Careri … e il suo “Giro del Mondo” (1900).

      LETTER II

       Of the greatness of Venice, the carnival, the nobility, theatres, etc.

      VENICE, JANUARY 29, 1686

      PRAY, Sir, observe how punctual I am in keeping my word, since I rather chuse to be troublesome, than to omit acquainting you with all I daily happen to see or hear. I persuade myself, that if you have not read all that epistle, or rather the long story I sent you four days ago, you have at least cast an eye upon the top of it, and consequently are inform’d, that I am in Venice, and, if you please, you may add, in perfect health, and sound as a roach, at your command, which is the main point. As God shall save you, lay aside your gravity, and conform a little to the genius of the carnival season, as I did when I came into this city; for I am not able to forbear being led away, in writing, by the extravagent itch that possesses me, and the Bacchanal fury that runs in my veins. What do you think on’t? Don’t I write as a pedantick schoolmaster talks? I will now, in the first place, describe to you the city of Venice, such as I have found it in these few days. Venice is a large, magnificent and plentiful city, built for the security, and delightful liberty of all sorts of persons; and govern’d by all the rules of a most excellent, and, by long experience, approv’d policy. Do but observe what I am about to say, and you will plainly perceive the truth of my assertion. As to the first part of it, no man in the world can deny it, if he does, but reflect, that it contains three hundred thousand inhabitants, all well to pass, thanks to their great trade, especially into the Levant: besides, there are seventy-two parishes, and