A Book of Voyages. Patrick O’Brian

      In France it is not customary to drink to persons at table, nor to drink wine after dinner. When the dessert is taken away, so is the wine;—an excellent custom, and worthy of being observed by all nations.

      XVIII

      It is wrong to be led into any kind of conversation but what is absolutely necessary, with the common, or indeed the middling class of people in France. They never fail availing themselves, of the least condescension in a stranger, to ask a number of impertinent questions, and to conclude, if you answer them civilly, that they are your equals.—Sentiment and bashfulness are not to be met with but among people of rank in France: to be free and easy is the etiquette of the country; and some kinds of that free and easy manner are highly offensive to strangers, and particularly to a shy Englishman.

      XIX

      When well-bred people flatter strangers, they seldom direct their flattery to the object they mean to compliment, but to one of their own country:—As, “What a bonne grace the English have,” says one to the other, in a whisper loud enough to be heard by the whole company, who all give a nod of consent; yet in their hearts they do not love the English of all other nations^fn4, and therefore conclude, that the English in their hearts do not love them.

      XX

      No gentleman, priest, or servant, male or female, ever gives any notice, by knocking, before they enter the bed-chamber, or apartment of ladies or gentlemen.—The post-man opens it to bring your letters; the capuchin, to ask alms; and the gentleman, to make his visit. There is no privacy but by securing your door by a key or a bolt; and when any of the middling class of people have got possession of your apartment, particularly of a stranger, it is very difficult to get them out.

      XXI

      There is not on earth, perhaps, so curious and inquisitive a people as the lower class of French: noise seems to be one of their greatest delights. If a ragged boy does but beat a drum, or sound a trumpet, he brings all who hear him about it, with the utmost speed, and most impatient curiosity.—As my monkey rode postillion, in a red jacket laced with silver, I was obliged to make him dismount when I passed through a town of any size: the people gathered so rapidly round me at Moret, three leagues from Fontainebleau, while I stopped only to buy a loaf, that I verily believe every man, woman, and child, except the sick and aged, were paying their respects to my little groom; all infinitely delighted; for none offered the least degree of rudeness. I fear a Frenchman could not have passed in the same manner, so agreeably, through a country town in England.

      XXII

      The French never give coffee, tea, or any refreshment, except upon particular occasions, to their morning or evening visitors.

      XXIII

      When the weather is cold, the fire small, and a large company, some young Frenchman shuts the whole circle from receiving any benefit from it, by placing himself just before it, laying his sword genteelly over his left knee, and flattering himself, while all the company wish him at the devil, that the ladies are admiring his legs. When he has gratified his vanity, or is thoroughly warm, he sits down, or goes, and another takes his place. I have seen this abominable ill-breeding kept up by a set of accomplished young fops for two hours together, in exceeding cold weather. This custom has been transplanted lately into England.

      XXIV

      Jealousy is scarce known in France. By the time the first child is born, an indifference generally takes place: the husband and wife have their separate acquaintance, and pursue their separate amusements