A Book of Voyages. Patrick O’Brian

we please to call to mind the occasion of the interdict of Paul V.; above fifteen hundred bridges, which join the seventy-two islands; above two hundred stately palaces along the famous canal of Rialto; and lastly, that it is full eight miles in compass. My second article plainly verifies itself, forasmuch as the situation is wonderful strong, and therefore chosen to be the retreat, I know not whether of fishermen, or of noble families, flying from the cruelty of Attila the Hun, about the year 422. As for the charming liberty, it is such as pleases the noblest, and best inform’d nations in Europe; and, tho’ it be very chargeable to them, the Germans, Polanders, English and French, never fail coming every year, at this time, to enjoy the excellent opera’s, entertainments, balls, and all other sorts of diversions; and the more for that every person is allow’d to go mask’d into all places, concealing both the sex and countenance. Yet I do not think the liberty allow’d the women, in this particular, altogether commendable; and it is certain, that their going about with other masks they meet in the street, at inns, and at the Ridotto, eating sweet-meats, and drinking muskadine wine, is often the occasion of disorders. This very day, a husband had like to have kill’d his wife, they not knowing one another before they came into the inn, had not the good man of the house prevented it. However it is, such accidents daily happen; yet no doubt it is a great matter, that every one may go about where he pleases, without being disturb’d by any body. Since I have mention’d the Ridotto, you must understand, that it is otherwise called the devil’s house, being a palace, in the several rooms whereof there are about an hundred tables for gaming, which are worth to the republick at least an hundred thousand crowns a year. So much money is made of the cards and lights paid by the nobility, who alone are allow’d to keep a bank. Hither all the masks retire about the dusk of the evening, for at other times none but noblemen and absolute princes may go in, and they generally play at basset. All is done in silence, laying down the quantity of money every one designs to venture, on what card he pleases, all other particulars being mark’d down with bits of card; and, in the same manner, he that wins is paid without any hesitation or controversy. It is certainly a pleasant sight to behold so many strange fashions of cloaths, and ways of expressing themselves; and that the gamesters should so little value their money, and sometimes their whole estates. I go thither frequently; and am the better pleas’d, because I see their pleasure disturb’d by their losings, and my own satisfaction noway cross’d; forasmuch as I am there only a spectator, without intermedling in what they do: and indeed, were a man to write a play, he could no where make better remarks on the several passions, than at the Ridotto.

       Mille hominum species, & rerum discolor usus:

       Velle suum cuique est, nec voto vivitur uno.

      There are a thousand sorts of men, and as much variety of fashions: Every man has his will, without complying with any one.

      As to the point of liberty, it is beyond all credibility; but no man must presume to look into the government of the commonwealth; for it is of the nature of the cancer, which none can handle, without faring the worse. As to other particulars, in the day time, it is frequent to see officers beaten, and their prisoners rescu’d by brothers and sons, with extraordinary impunity and freedom. Tho’ the nobility absolutely lord it over the common sort, yet, in outward appearance, they are not very imperious or haughty towards them, but very familiarly permit them to be cover’d in their presence; which, I think, is very requisite in commonwealths, to preserve peace and civil unity. Besides, to avoid being thought proud, which would render them odious to their inferiors, they walk about the streets without any attendance, and sometimes with a small parcel or bundle under their upper garment; and thus, laying aside all ostentation and shew of luxury, they exercise a most absolute sovereignty. They wear a long vest down to their ancles, of black cloth, with great wide sleeves; in winter, lin’d and edg’d with furs, and in summer with some slight silk. On the left shoulder hangs another piece of cloath, about four spans long, and two in breadth, to keep them from the rain. To deal ingenuously with you, I am of opinion, it is the same as the toga among the ancient Romans; as the aforesaid vest, or upper garment tho’ long, may be used instead of the senators’ tunica clavata, or laticlavium; for it plainly appears by a certain place in Athenæus, that the toga was once square. Besides that, tho’ this sort of garment be also common to lawyers and physicians, however, the nobles do not wear it before they are twenty-five years of age: and whereas the Romans, less discretely, allow’d all men the toga virilis, which was the manly habit, at seventeen years of age, the Venetians do not permit it to be worn till twenty-five; excepting those thirty-five youths which are yearly chosen by lot on St. Barbara’s day, that they may wear it at eighteen. On their heads they wear a little woollen cap, with a thicker fur about it than the rest. The girdle is of leather, with a buckle, and other ornaments of silver.

      I am now well enter’d upon the matter, and have so far play’d the republican and politician, that methinks I have a whole Roman senate in my head, with all the families of the Porcii, Fabricii, Sulpicii, Calpurnii, and Cecilii, but not the Cornificii and Cornelii. It is not at all agreeable to the carnival, especially for one that is at Venice, to enter upon politicks: and I question not but that you think with your self, where is the diversion I promis’d myself, in reading the beginning of this letter? and when will this good man give over his tediousness, and writing long letters? If so, I have done; for I can grow weary of writing; but then you will want the best, that is, what relates to theatres, and is the third part of my description. Then let my importunity prevail upon your patience. There are several theatres in Venice. That of St. Luke, mention’d in my last, contains an hundred and fifty boxes. St. Angelo, where I saw Jugurtha king of Numidia excellently acted, has an hundred and thirty-six. In that of Zane, or John of St. Moses, if I mistake not, I counted an hundred and fifteen (small enough), when I was there on Saturday, to see Clearchus of Negropont. The following night I saw Dido raving in that of St. John and Paul; and I assure you, it was nothing inferior to any of those we so much applauded there, either for excellent singing, or curious scenes: it contains an hundred and fifty-four boxes. I have not yet seen the theatre of Grimani, but am told, it is finer than all the rest, and has an hundred and sixty-two boxes richly gilt; but there they pay four Italian livres, which is better than three shillings entrance, and thirty-two pence for a seat; whereas, in the others, they give but thirty-two pence entrance, and twenty for a seat, or little more. St. Samuel and St. Cassanus are two other noble theatres, but not for opera’s in musick. And, to conclude, the square of St. Mark may be also call’d a theatre; for there are abundance of diversions, volting, dancing on the ropes, and puppet-shews, but, above all, variety of pleasant sights and conversation.

      It remains to speak something to the third point, that is, the government; but what shall I do now? my paper will hold no more, and it is too late to scribble another sheet. D’ye think I shall not write to you again the next week? I refer that account till then, when perhaps I may be able to do it better, and upon more solid information than at present. We have here a mighty report of the magnificence of your viceroy, both as to masks and opera’s; it would grieve me to be so far from him, were there not so much pleasure in travelling; however, I beg you will give me some account of it, as fully as your important affairs will permit: thus, with my commendations to yourself and friends, I remain, &c.

      LETTER III

       Of the government of Venice, the great council-chamber, the armory, the Doge’s attendance to church, and a notable story.

      VENICE, FEBRUARY, 1686

      In pursuance of my promise, and at the same time to satisfy you, I have these days apply’d myself, with all possible care, to get some solid information concerning the government of this city; but am of opinion, I have wasted my breath and my time; for their methods are kept wonderful secret, and we can only conjecture at them by the effects: and, in short, all, I believe I have been able to discover, is, that it is this same concert the Venetians are beholden to for the preservation of their state. There is no question to be made, but that Amelot de la Houssaye’s relation is very fine and curious, and the contents of it not only likely, but almost palpable demonstration of what he proposes to lay open; yet am I of opinion, that the greatest part of it is rather the product of his own brain, than any information received from others, the men of quality here being always very reserv’d, and upon their guard, tho’ others be never