of the present reign
224
|
|
143.
|
The wig-bag or “flash” from a Court suit, showing the rosette held away and displaying the black silk bag. At the lower corners of the latter loops are seen, which are probably the remains of those through which a ribbon was passed, which went round the neck and fastened on the breast by a brooch
|
229
|
|
144.
|
The hood from the mantle of a Knight of the Garter, showing the survival of the chaperon and its liripipe
|
230
|
|
145.
|
Relic of chain mail on the shoulder of an Imperial Yeoman
|
233
|
|
146.
|
Chain mail illustrated by the brass of Sir Richard de Trumpington, A.D. 1289
|
234
|
|
147.
|
A reversion in military equipment. One of Cromwell’s Ironsides (1679), from a print. A Cavalryman sketched at Aldershot in 1901. Copied, by permission, from the Daily Mail
|
237
|
|
148.
|
The prickers on the shoulder-belt of a Hussar, which survive from the time of flint-lock muskets
|
239
|
|
149.
|
The Oscan Pulicinella of 1731, without a long nose. The dress is very similar to that figured in 1630 (after Riccoboni)
|
256
|
|
150.
|
The Calabrian Giangurgolo of 1731, with the long nose. The dress is very similar to that figured in 1630 (after Riccoboni)
|
257
|
|
151.
|
An ancient bronze statuette with the face and features of Punch (after Ficorroni)
|
258
|
|
152.
|
A fourteenth-century puppet-show (from the MS. of the “Roman d’Alexandre”)
|
259
|
|
153.
|
Punch, from the Punch and Judy Show, showing the ruff and other details of Elizabethan costume
|
263
|
|
154.
|
Judy, from the Punch and Judy Show, with ruff, mob cap, and apron
|
263
|
|
155.
|
The Beadle, from the Punch and Judy Show
|
264
|
|
156.
|
The Doctor, from the Punch and Judy Show, with wig and white tie
|
264
|
|
157.
|
A clown, showing a survival of an Elizabethan costume
|
270
|
|
158.
|
The dress of a modern harlequin
|
284
|
|
159.
|
A pantaloon, showing an Elizabethan costume of which Venetian breeches form part
|
285
|
|
160.
|
The bands that survive on a lady’s nightdress
|
289
|
|
161.
|
A woman’s nightcap, still worn in Wiltshire
|
289
|
|
162.
|
A man’s nightcap, from Oxfordshire
|
290
|
|
163.
|
An English horse amulet in the form of a crescent. The flat places near the tips of the horns are evidence that the form is derived from two boars’ tusks
|
294
|
|
164.
|
An English horse amulet showing both the heart and the sun
|
296
|
|
165.
|
The cowry-shell ornaments on the head of an officer’s charger of the 10th Hussars. The pendant recalls that on mules in Palestine
|
298
|
|
166.
|
Cowry shells on an Eastern mule, hanging like the pendant of the 10th Hussars
|
299
|
|
167.
|
Cowry shells on the head-stall of a camel from Palestine
|
299
|
|
168.
|
A Merveilleuse (after A. Robida)
|
345
|
|
169.
|
A modern family, consisting of the average-sized mother, the taller daughter, and the puny boy (from a drawing by Miss Audrey Watson in “Physical Efficiency,” by Dr. Cantlie, by kind permission of Messrs. Putnam’s Sons)
|
357
|
I
THE THRALL OF DRESS
Table of Contents
THE PRINCIPLES OF EVOLUTION APPLIED TO CLOTHES
The numbers in the text refer to a bibliography at the end of the book
Unluckily, perhaps, we are born naked and helpless, but no sooner do we come into the world than we are provided with body-guards in the shape of clothes. In consequence, our social position is made manifest. Our vanity is flattered at the same time that our modesty is assured. On the other hand, however, our skin may be chafed, our hair worn away, and, should our equipment strictly follow the dictates of the Goddess Fashion, our bodies may even be deformed and our lives shortened. Moreover, there are other penalties to be paid; we are kept warm in summer as well as in winter, the purchase of our attire may entail the spending of much money, while the mere donning and doffing of our clothes gives rise to a prodigious waste of time.
Even tramps have at intervals to replace the rags which cover them, and while, for all practical purposes,
