The Heritage of Dress. Wilfred Mark Webb

31 18. Side tabs and buttons at the back (after Racinet) 31 19. A coat worn at the end of the seventeenth century (after H. Bonnart) 32 20. A modern coat with side pockets 32 21. A footman’s coat, modern, with vestigial pocket flaps 33 22. Coat skirts buttoned back (after Hogarth) 33 23. A coat with the skirts buttoned back and showing the lining 34 24. A dress coat with skirts cut away 34 25. A modern coat cuff with buttons 35 26. Turned-back cuff, end of seventeenth century (after Bonnart) 35 27. A coat sleeve (after Hogarth) with horizontal row of buttons 36 28. Sleeve of a coat of the seventeenth century, reputed to have been worn by Charles I 36 29. The turned-back cuff of an overcoat, modern 37 30. A sleeve with vertical buttons and a turned-back cuff as well (from a uniform, after Hogarth) 37 31. The uniform of a coastguard officer of 1775 (after Racinet) 39 32. The nicks in the coat and waistcoat 41 33. A stage when the nick was useful (Lucien Bonaparte, after Paul Lacroix) 42 34. The “toothpick” on a dress coat 43 35. Modern bands 45 36. A blue-coat boy’s bands 45 37. A chorister of Jesus College, Cambridge, showing the collar worn until recently. (From a photograph, by the courtesy of Mr. H. Austin Wheaton) 45 38. A stage in the reduction of bands (portrait of Jan Steen from the Illustrated Magazine of Art) 46 39. Full-sized bands (portrait of John Pym from the Illustrated Magazine of Art) 46 40. A modern bandbox, now used for hats 47 41. Bands that survive at the present day 47 42. The turban of a Jewish priest (after Kitto) compared with the dome of the Mosque of Omar 50 43. A Siamese head-dress and a Pra Pang or votive spire (after P. A. Thompson) 51 44. A Gothic spire (St. Stephens, Caen) compared with the hennin (the latter after Fairholt) 51 45. Band with streamers fastening on the head-dress of an Egyptian woman. From a figure of the Sixth Dynasty, 3500 B.C. 52