Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

to Chap. 2. Pl. V, 6.

      Kandys—extremely long garment, with funnel-shaped skirt held by girdle, worn by Mede. Pl. V, 5.

      Kohl—refer to Chap. 2.

      Lotus—refer to Chap. 2.

      Mantle—loose, sleeveless outergarment. Refer to Chap. 2. Pl. V, 1.

      Miter—high headdress, wider at the top than at the bottom.

      Moccasin—refer to Chap. 1.

      Pantaloons—full, long trousers, gathered at ankle.

      Phrygian Bonnet or Cap—cap with point which bent forward. Pl. V, 8.

      Sandal—type of shoe with sole strapped to foot. Refer to Chaps. 1, 2. Pl. V, 9.

      Shawl—oblong outergarment, draped diagonally from left shoulder and under right arm. Refer to Chap. 2. Pl. V, 3.

      Tiara—very elaborate, miter-like headdress worn on important occasions. One type of tiara was decorated at the base with a band of jewel-framed rosettes, and had 1 or 2 bands set on top. Another tiara was cylindrical and covered with rosettes. Pl. V, 7.

      Tunic—body garment of various lengths and fabrics. Refer to Chap. 2. Pl. V, 2.

      Turban—headdress of cloth, wound around the head.

      Veil—thin cloth draped over the head and occasionally over the face; an expression of modesty.

      Winged Globe—refer to Chap. 2.

      Greece

      CHRONOLOGY

      MINOAN OR CRETAN PERIOD (2800-1200 B.C.): The Aegean Civilizations. Two dynasties, Cnossus and Phaestus. Hieroglyphic writing, c. 2300 B.C. Linear script replaced the hieroglyphic, after 1600 B.C. Portrayal of this civilization in the Iliad and Odyssey. Dorians came, c. 1100 B.C., introduced the Iron Age.

      HOMERIC OR ARCHAIC PERIOD (1200-510 B.C.): Monarchies replaced by aristocracies except in Sparta. Land monopolized by nobles. Alphabet introduced. Greek colonization. Homeric poems, c. 800 B.C. Olympic Festival founded 775 B.C.

      HELLENIC PERIOD (510-336 B.C.): Persian Wars 499-478 B.C. Golden Age 450-400 B.C. High perfection reached in architecture, art, and poetry. Great dramatists in Athens. Temple of Athena Niké erected, c. 435 B.C. Erecktheum, 435-408 B.C. Peloponnesian Wars between Sparta and Athens. The First War, 460-446 B.C. The Great Peloponnesian War, 421-404 B.C. Downfall of Athens. Defeat of Greeks by Philip of Macedon at Chaeronea, 338 B.C.

      HELLENISTIC PERIOD (336-146 B.C.): Including Alexandrian Period, 337-323 B.C., named for Alexander the Great. 4th Century distinguished by great orators and philosophers. Italy invaded by Hannibal of Carthage, who crossed the Alps, 218 B.C. Conquest of Greece by Romans, 146 B.C.

      CHAPTER 4

      Greece

      HISTORY

      The early Cretans, also known as Minoans, dominated the peninsula of Greece and nearby islands. A wealth of material has been found in Cnossus in Crete which gives us an idea of the life of these people. Some of the Neolithic remains found at Cnossus are even older than the predynastic remains in Egypt. During Dynasty XII in Egypt, there was extensive trade between these two centers of civilizations; goods were transported by ships propelled by sails and oars.

      The Cretans were seafarers as early as 3000 B.C. As a people, they did not come to full development until unified under one ruler, about 2500 B.C. Free from invasion, they were able to develop their culture, and made great contributions to civilization in architecture, pottery, jewelry, and fine textiles. Bathrooms, drain pipes, and other conveniences indicate their high degree of advancement. Under King Minos, whose palace was in Cnossus, Cretan civilization reached its climax. Their culture spread, and such cities as Mycenae, Tiryns, and Troy were founded. There were trade relations with Egypt, Syria, and Mesopotamia. This splendid era came to a close, however, when the Dorians, a less civilized and more warlike people, swept across Crete and by 1100 B.C., conquered the Aegean world.

      The costume, found on the island of Crete, was different from that of any other Grecian period. Except for the low neckline, woman’s dress can be identified with a similar garment worn in the middle of the 19th century.

      As the Dorians conquered the lands about the Aegean Sea, they assimilated many elements of Cretan civilization. Their voyages brought them in contact with the Egyptian, Babylonian, and Assyrian cultures. A monumental architecture developed in the early part of the period, and sculpture and pottery also reached a high state of excellence. The Ionians settled in Attica and evolved an individual art. They were artists, poets, and philosophers in contrast to the Dorians who were soldiers and practical men of affairs.

      ANCIENT WORLD

      265 B.C.

      The Homeric Period (1200-510 B.C.) was marked by the introduction of the alphabet, the beginning of Homeric poetry, and the great Greek colonization which was encouraged by the aristocrats and landowners. Due to the discontent among the landless people, the leaders in Greece advised them to settle on distant shores. The colonies that were established not only engaged in agriculture but developed commerce enterprises. In the Hellenic Period (510-336 B.C.) Athens became the center of Western civilization, and art and culture reached its highest development. Commerce and industry flourished. History lists many important names of this time: Herodotus, historian; Aeschylus, Euripides, Aristophanes, dramatists; Myron and Phidias, sculptors; Socrates and Plato, philosophers. The Hellenistic Period that followed (336-146 B.C.) included the Alexandrian era (337-323 B.C.). The latter was dominated by Alexander the Great, Macedonian King, who founded the city of Alexandria in 331 B.C. and became King of Persia after his successful invasion of that country. The great cultural era of philosophy, literature, and art ended with the death of Alexander. His general, Ptolemy, founded the Ptolemaic Dynasty which lasted in Egypt until the death of Cleopatra in 30 B.C. The Gauls from the West raided Macedonia and Greece about 277 B.C., crossing Asia Minor to settle in Phrygia. The Romans appeared later and conquered Corinth, bringing Greek independence to an end.

      Throughout the Grecian period the lines of the costume remained similar. The exquisite quality and beauty of cloth distinguished the Homeric Age; the cut and manner of wearing garments were significant later. Although many tunics were often worn at one time, a sumptuary law regulated the number of tunics to three or less when they were worn to funerals or festivals. The influence of the luxury of the Orient and of Byzantium was reflected in elaborate embroideries and jewels.

      During Homeric times, the life of the woman was free and dignified. She stayed close to her household where she exercised a certain amount of authority, taking charge of the affairs of her husband when he was off at war. A woman was forbidden to enter the professions. A case is cited of one woman who posed as a man and became a famous physician but when she was found out by jealous male rivals they brought a lawsuit against her. This resulted in an amendment to the law which made it legal for women to practice medicine. The making of clothes, weaving, and embroidery occupied the time of women of high rank.

      As life became more luxurious and intellectual interests dominated Athens the woman did not have the opportunity to participate in the social life of her husband. By the time of the Golden Age of Pericles, her life had become that of a cloistered slave. Before she was married at the age of sixteen or seventeen she had seen and heard little of life. She seldom left the house and if she did, she was always accompanied. Although she could attend religious festivals and family gatherings she seldom was allowed by her husband to be in the public eye. While keeping his wife sequestered the husband sought more intellectual and