Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

Tyrian purple, red, and gold; all-over pattern and border.Typical Materials: elaborately embroidered cloth; linen; wool; dressed leather. Assyria famous for beautiful weaving.Make-up: eyelids and eyebrows no doubt painted.

       H. WOMEN (Assyrian-Babylonian, 884-606 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: long tunic with 3-quarter length sleeve, belted or unbelted, low neckline, similar to type worn by man.Cloaks and overgarments: fringed, rectangular shawl draped over right shoulder.Hair: Grecian influence; braids and waves; long bushy bob; sometimes arranged in a knot, mass of curls, or in symmetrical rolls.Headdress: veil; fillet or crown for royalty.Footwear: barefoot or sandal; high laced boot for hunting.Accessories: belt with clasp.Jewelry: close-fitting necklace resembling dog collar; gold collar similar to the one worn by man; large heavy earring; bracelet; armlet.Typical Colors: refer to F. 7.Typical Materials: refer to F. 8.Make-up: rare perfume; pungent oils and cosmetics; hair, hands, and nails colored with henna.

       I. MEN (Persian, 550-330 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper: tunic belted or unbelted, extending to knee or longer, sleeveless or with wrist-length, set-in sleeve.Outer lower: tight-fitting trousers.Cloaks and overgarments: girded long or short robe, similar to the one worn by the Egyptian, fullness often under the arm.Hair: enormous bushy wig of curled hair, shorter than Assyrian; sometimes with long braids worn over shoulder; round or pointed beard joined to thick mustache.Headdress: band or fillet 3 inches wide sometimes worn low on forehead; king’s crown wider at top; domed hat with ribbon hanging in the back; also deep cap covering neck and entire head except the face; later, turban; cidaris; hood with peak standing straight up, falling back, or omitted entirely by servant, warrior, or hunter.Footwear: barefoot, soft shoe, or moccasin having turned-up toe; sometimes piece of leather wrapped around foot and tied over instep; type of low heel shoe protected the foot from the burning sands.Accessories: walking stick; umbrella; fly whisk; cane rod carried by priest; javelin; knife.Jewelry: used sparingly; earrings; chain; gold collar.Typical Colors: purple robe lined with white; yellow, yellow-green, blue, or blue-green.Typical Materials: tanned hide used at first, later, linen.Make-up: perfume.

       J. WOMEN (Persian, 550-330 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper: longer and wider tunic than that worn by man, closed in front and girded with fringed sash; very voluminous in latter part of period.Outer lower: breeches to knee or ankle at first; very full pantaloons in later period.Cloaks and overgarments: fringed scarf or cape; scarf fringed on both ends and side.Hair: hair falling about shoulders, usually covered by a veil.Headdress: fully veiled; head and shoulder covered.Footwear: barefoot, or soft shoe with turned-up toe.Accessories: sash with fringe.Jewelry: necklace, bracelet, earrings, ring, ankle bells.Typical Colors: refer to I. 7.Typical Materials: leather; thin fabric used for full trousers. Refer to I. 8.Make-up: eyelid and eyebrow painted.

       K. MEN AND WOMEN (Scythian)Garments:Outer upper: coat open in front and held by girdle or tucked under trousers; low neckline; sleeve full but tight at wrist.Outer lower: lower leg of breeches confined in top of boot.Cloaks and overgarments: large shawl.Hair: man wore rather long hair and beard.Headdress: pointed cap or cap-shaped piece of cloth worn by man; long veil worn by woman.Footwear: soft boot laced in front; sandal.Accessories: bow and arrow, spear, dagger, and sword used by man.Jewelry: bracelet of gold for wealthy; torque; brooch.Typical Colors: blue, green, red, yellow, and purple.Typical Materials: leather, fur, wool and felt; fringe trimming; fine cloth in voluminous costume of woman.Make-up: face painted.

       L. MEN AND WOMEN (Amazon)Garments:Outer upper: short vest with long sleeve; outertunic, sleeveless, close-fitting or full; clasp on shoulder; tunic girded if too long or when fighting.Outer lower: pantaloons of same material as vest, held in top of shoe or sandal; skirt worn over long pantaloons by woman; short skirt worn in the home; pantaloons of skin worn during warfare.Cloaks and overgarments: voluminous mantle.Hair: medium length.Headdress: similar to Phrygian bonnet, metal helmet of same shape, jagged crest of ancient animal of mythology on back of cap; helmet ending in shape of bill of a griffin.Footwear: richly ornamented shoe encircling entire foot, laced up front.Accessories: girdle; bow and arrow; spear.Jewelry: brooch.Typical Colors: likely similar to those of neighboring Asiatic countries.Typical Materials: fine fabric embroidered or painted in stripes, zigzags, dots or checks.Make-up: apparently none.

       M. MEN AND WOMEN (Parthian)Garments:Outer upper: sleeved coat, sleeveless shirt.Outer lower: trousers.Cloaks and overgarments: many coats worn at one time; very long sleeve.Hair: man with long hair and beard.Headdress: miter or cylindrical cap, wider at top than bottom; Phrygian cap; round or pointed headdress; veil fastened to headdress and falling down the back, worn by woman.Footwear: leather sandal, shoe, or boot.Accessories: refer to I. 5.Jewelry: emblematic ornament; refer to I. 6.Typical Colors: reddish purple shoe; gay colors worn by upper class.Typical Materials: softer and finer fabrics used by woman than by man.Make-up: man with elaborately curled beard; woman noted for her beauty, no doubt used eye shadow and paint.

      SIGNIFICANT MOTIFS

      Motifs of the various countries can scarcely be distinguished from each other. The Assyrian designs included the bull, lion, and eagle; palm, date, fig, and fir trees; vine, fern, and tall grass; also copies and variations of the winged globe, lotus or lily, and rosette found in Egyptian ornamentation. The Chaldean and Babylonian ornamentation included the winged bull with a human head and other designs characteristic of those found in Assyrian decoration. The Persian designs showed adaptations of the motifs found in Egyptian, Assyrian, Babylonian, and Grecian decoration. In addition to designs which showed the influence of those of Egypt, Assyria, Babylon, and Persia, the Hebrews used stripes and geometrical designs.

      INFLUENCES ON LATER COSTUMES

      Beautiful fabrics of gold and other costly material; color and line of garment shown later in medieval dress; trousers and fitted jacket of all later periods; aigrette worn in hair, 1775, shows influence of Asia Minor; fringe, 1850, 1907, and late 1920’s, ’30’s, and ’40’s; printed fabrics of various periods; turban; shoe with heel in later centuries; stocking cap, 20th century, shows influence of Phrygian cap; dog collar, 5th-11th century, 1850’s, ’90’s, 1900’s, ’40’s, and ’50’s.

      BOOKS OF REFERENCE

      (See also GENERAL BIBLIOGRAPHY, p. 433 )

      De Quincy, Thomas, Theological Essays and Other Papers, Chapter on “Toilette of the Hebrew Lady,” Vol. II (Boston, Ticknor, Reed and Fields, 1854)

      Hope, Thomas, Costumes of the Ancients (London, J. Murray, 1908)

      Houston, Mary G., and Hornblower, Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian and Persian Costumes and Decorations (London, A. and C. Black, Ltd., 1920)

      Tissot, J. J. J., The Life of Our Lord Jesus Christ (New York, American Art Assn., 1902)

      ————, The Old Testament (Paris, M. de Brunoff, 1904)

      Wright, Marion Logan, Biblical Costume with Adaptations for Use in Plays (London, Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, 1936)

      GLOSSARY

      Aigrette—feather or plume of the egret, a kind of heron.

      Baldrick—strap or narrow scarf worn over shoulder and across body, usually to support a sword. Refer to Chap. 1.

      Cafton or Kafton—coat-like, fringed garment sewed down each side and tied in front, worn by Hebrew.

      Cape—refer to Chap. 2.

      Cidaris—truncated cone-shaped headdress, ornamented with a band or fold at its base. Pl. V, 4.

      Claft—refer to Chap. 2.

      Diadem—mitre-like headdress wider and higher toward front, having decoration of rosettes. A white, striped diadem was worn by the royalty.

      Dog Collar—close-fitting necklace, worn later in 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries.

      Fictile—molded pottery.

      Kalasiris—close-fitting one-piece shirt of very fine cloth, fastened with a girdle and worn by the