Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

Sir E. A. Wallis, The Book of the Dead (London, Routledge and Kegan Paul, Ltd., 1949)

      Glanville, S. R. K., Daily Life in Ancient Egypt (London, George Routledge and Sons, 1930)

      Hope, Thomas, Costume of the Ancients (London, Henry G. Bohm, 1841)

      Houston, Mary G., and Hornblower, Florence S., Ancient Egyptian, Assyrian, and Persian Costumes and Decorations (New York, The Macmillan Co., 1920)

      Maspero, G., Art in Egypt (New York, Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1930)

      Müller, W. Max, Egyptian Mythology (Boston, Marshall Jones Co., 1923)

      Petri, Flinders, Arts and Crafts of Ancient Egypt (London, Methuen and Co., 1926)

      Ross, E. D., Arts of Egypt Through the Ages, Chap. II (London, The Studio Ltd., 1931)

      Thackeray, Lance, The People of Egypt (London, A. and C. Black, Ltd., 1910)

      GLOSSARY

      Accordion Pleating—small, tight pleats at right angles to the plane of the fabric resembling the folds of an accordion.

      Amulet—small object to which magical powers were attributed. Refer to Chap. 1.

      Apron—ornament of elaborate tabs of leather, metal, or enamel, hanging from king’s girdle. Pl. II, 4.

      Arm Band—wide metal bands worn on upper and lower arm. Pl. IV, 4.

      Asp, Royal Snake or Uraeus—symbol of royalty and of blessing given by the king, used on headdress of rulers. Pl. III, 4.

      Badge—emblem worn by a prince on side of head, extending as far as the shoulder. Pl. III, 12.

      Cape—sleeveless garment worn over shoulder. Pl. III, 10.

      Circlet—narrow metal band worn around the head.

      Claft—headcovering of heavy material falling backward loosely over the shoulder, known as the headdress of the sphinx. The greatest pharaohs were represented with this head covering. Claft trimmed with lotus flowers, or decorated with gold worn by woman. Pl. III, 2.

      Collar—round, flat neckwear made of beads, shells, faïence, semiprecious stones, and gold; sometimes made of papyrus or fabric, with geometric and lotus designs embroidered in bright colored wool. Pl. II, 9.

      Cone—ornament containing perfume worn on top of the head. Pl. III, 11.

      Cross or Key of Life—emblem of eternity. Pl. II, 5.

      Faïence—fine, richly colored, glazed earthenware.

      Feather or Plumed Headdress—symbol of Isis and royalty. Pl. III, 7.

      Fillet—band worn around the hair or wig by both man and woman. Pl. III, 9.

      Fret—ornamental pattern representing wanderings of the soul.

      Hawk—symbol of royalty.

      Helmet—close-fitting cap, low on the sides, usually extending over the ears and decorated with royal symbol.

      Henna—shrub or tree whose leaves give a red-orange dye used as a cosmetic.

      Hieroglyph—character in the writing of the ancient Egyptians. Pl. II, 8.

      Horus lock—braid of false hair worn behind right ear by fashionable woman. Pl. III, 8.

      Kalasiris—long-sleeved or sleeveless robe. Pl. II, 2.

      Kohl—preparation from galena or dark gray lead ore which was used to stain the eyelids and the eyebrows.

      Lappet—folded part which extended down each side of headdress.

      Lily or Lotus—flower, symbol of fertility and immortality; also symbol of the Kingdom of the South. Pl. II, 3.

      Loin Cloth—straight piece of cloth held in place by a girdle wrapped around the body from right to left, with the ends extending down the front or at the side. Refer to Chap. 1. Pl. II, 7.

      Lotus—refer to Lily.

      Malachite—green ore of copper.

      Mantle—cape-like garment draped under 1 arm and over the other, sometimes falling over both shoulders and fastened in front. This mantle developed into the short mantilla which was sometimes edged with fringe. Pl. III, 5.

      Ostrich Feathers—emblem of a god or royalty.

      Papyrus or Reed—standard of the Kingdom of the North; also paper made from the papyrus plant. Pl. IV, 7.

      Pectoral—ornaments made of gold and enamel, with a cut-out design, which hung on a breast-length gold chain over the collar. This semiofficial ornament was worn by royalty and other important people. Pl. II, 1.

      Pharaoh—royal title given the ruler in ancient Egypt.

      Plumed Headdress—refer to Feather Headdress.

      Postiche—false beard attached usually by a gold strap, worn as a sign of dignity.

      Pshent—state headdress which combined the headdresses of the Northern and Southern Kingdoms. Pl. IV, 3.

      Rectangular Cape—transparent cape clasped at the breast.

      Reed—refer to Papyrus.

      Robe—very full, rectangular-shaped garment which formed dolman-like sleeve when girded.

      Royal Snake or Uraeus—refer to Asp.

      Sacred Beetle or Scarab—symbol of immortality. Red carnelian, carved in design of sacred beetle, used as official seal by the pharaoh in place of lock and key. Pl. III, 6.

      Sandal—refer to Chap. 1.

      Scarab—refer to Sacred Beetle.

      Scroll—symbol of the Nile River.

      Shawl—rectangular—shaped fabric of varying size.

      Stibium—mixture used for staining eyelid and eyebrow.

      Symbol of Royalty—design significant of the nobility; realistic snake, or bird often worn on headdress. Pl. III, 1.

      Toque—close-fitting cap.

      Transparent Outerskirt—linen skirt lengthened in the back and looped up in puffs, used in latter part of Dynasty XVIII. Pl. II, 6.

      Tunic—long, scant garment varying in length and reaching from the bust to the ankle, worn by man and woman. 1 or 2 straps over shoulders held tunic in place. Pl. IV, 6.

      Uraeus—refer to Asp.

      Vulture—sacred bird which was the protector of the king in time of war.

      Vulture Cap—headdress topped with the outspread wings of a vulture. Pl. III, 3.

      Wig—artificial headdress built upon a net-like surface which served as a protection from the heat of the sun. Pl. IV, 1.

      Winged Clobe—symbol of the sun carried on wings through the heavens. This motif, shown over the entrance of the temples and tombs, signified the protection of the sun-god. It was also used as a decoration on garments, accessories and jewelry. Pl. IV, 2.

      Wraparound Skirt—refer to Chap. 1. Pl. IV, 5.

      Zig-zag—symbol of the Nile River which gave life to the crops.

      Asiatic Empires

      CHRONOLOGY

      SUMERIAN PERIOD (3175-2425 B.C.): First Dynasty of Ur, 2575-2425 B.C. Royal tombs of Ur, epoch of city kingdoms.

      DYNASTY OF AKKAD (2425-2270 B.C.): Founded by Sargon.