Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

      Ceryphalos—bandage-shaped fillet which fitted snugly around the head. Pl. VI, 9.

      Chiton—form of linen, cotton, or woolen tunic which may have been of Asiatic origin. The Doric chiton had an overfold and fastened on the shoulder. At first, it was held at the side with brooches and later was sewed at the side to just below the armpit. The Ionic chiton of the woman had no overfold, although occasionally a false overfold was added. This garment was girded in various ways and had a full sleeve fastening at intervals on outer side of arm, sometimes sleeve was formed by cutting out the sides of the garment. The Dorian, who was a soldier and practical man, expressed himself by simplicity of dress, whereas, the costume of the Ionian was distinguished by graceful folds. Pl. VI, 6, 7.

      Chlamys—garment, oblong in shape, resembling the himation, but much smaller, used by a woman traveler, horseman, and foot soldier. Pl. VII, 6.

      Cothurnus—thick-soled, high-laced boot worn by tragic actor. Pl. VII, 8.

      Dentil—one of a series of close-fitting, tooth-like scallops.

      Diadem—refer to Chap. 3.

      Diplax—outdoor garment similar to chlamys, worn by a woman.

      Diploidon—square or oblong piece of fabric doubled so that the folded edge was upward and draped under the left arm and fastened on the opposite shoulder.

      Ephebi—military cloak resembling the chlamys. Pl. VI, 8.

      Fibula—brooch worn to fasten garment at shoulder; originally made from the fibula or small bone of the leg of an animal.

      Fillet—refer to Chap. 2. Pl. VI, 5.

      Cuilloche—decoration made by interlacing curved lines.

      Himation—voluminous rectangular woolen or linen shawl or mantle, 12 to 15 feet long, worn alone or over a chiton, usually white, with an all-over pattern or decoration on the border. The draping of this garment designated the interests and culture of the wearer. The himation often served as a head-covering and cloak. It was considered very proper to wear the himation in such a way as to envelop the left arm, but very bad manners to envelop the right arm. Pl. VII, 2.

      Intaglio—figure depressed below the surface of the material.

      Kolobus—1-piece shirt-like garment worn by a man. It opened at the side for the arm instead of along the upper edge, as in the chiton. The kolobus with long fitted sleeve was considered fashionable; it may have been woven in one piece with an opening for the arm and the head.

      Kolpos—overfold or bloused part at the waistline of the chiton.

      Mantle—refer to Chaps. 2, 3.

      Meander—deep wavy line.

      Miter—woman’s woolen headdress, wider at the top than at headband, enveloping hair at back. Refer to Chap. 3.

      Nimbus—linen headband ornamented with gold embroidery. Pl. VII, 5.

      Peplos—earliest form of chiton usually worn by a woman in the Homeric Period, consisted of a rectangular woolen cloth, often heavily embroidered, with overfold extending to waist, and fastened on the shoulder with a large pin. The peplos of Athena is shown with a 2nd girdle tied on top of the overfold. Pl. VII, 9.

      Petasus—broad-brimmed, low, round-crowned or slightly-pointed hat, woven from grass or palm leaves, or made of felt; worn as a protection from the sun. Pl. VI, 2.

      Phrygian Cap—refer to Chap. 3. Pl. VI, 3.

      Pilos—conical hat worn by a peasant or a fisherman. Pl. VI, 4.

      Psyche Knot—a hair arrangement; twisted roll worn vertically on back of head.

      Sakkos—covering the head almost completely. Pl. VII, 4.

      Sandal—footwear consisting of felt, matting, leather, cork or wooden sole with thongs tied over the foot; usually a strap fastened to the sole between the big and next toe. Refer to Chaps. 1, 2, 3. Pl. VI, 8; Pl. VII, 7.

      Scepter—ornamental staff used by king.

      Splendone—headband of ornamented cloth or leather, with widest part in front, the narrow ends tied in the back. Pl. VII, 3.

      Stephane—brilliantly decorated, inverted crescent, with wider part standing up in front; worn as a head ornament.

      Stiletto—a narrow pointed stick or rod, used as a hairpin.

      Strophion—type of corset made of linen, wool or soft skin; consisting of shoulder straps and 3 supporting bands, 1 for the bust, 1 for the waist, and 1 for the hip; also used as a foundation for the chiton.

      Tiara—refer to Chap. 3.

      Tunic—loose fitted dress; sometimes worn as an undergarment. Refer to Chaps. 2, 3.

      Veil—refer to Chap. 3. Pl. VIII, 9.

      Rome

      CHRONOLOGY

      THE KINGDOM (753-509 B.C.): Rome founded by Romulus, 753 B.C. (According to a professor in Sweden, recent excavations in the Roman Forum have shown evidence that Rome was founded about 575 B.C. by Numa Pompelius.)

      THE REPUBLIC (509-31 B.C.): Twelve tablets of law, the basis of all Roman law drawn up by 450 B.C. First Macedonian War, 205 B.C. After Fourth Macedonian War, 148 B.C., Macedonia a Roman province. Parchment discovered about 200 B.C. First library in Rome about 200 B.C. Astronomy important as a science about 200 B.C. Orations of Cicero, 60 B.C. First invasion into Britain, 54 B.C. Second invasion, 53 B.C. Conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, 58-51 B.C. Caesar, consul for 5 years, tribune for life, 46 B.C. Latin dictionary compiled by Varro. Anthony and Cleopatra defeated at Actium, 31 B.C. Geographical knowledge and commerce extending as far as Central Asia about 30 B.C. Boundaries of Rome extended until they included Mediterranean basin and western Europe. Great interest in learning.

      THE EMPIRE (31 B.C.-A.D. 476): Caesar Octavian, the first emperor, 31 B.C.-A. D. 14, received the title of Augustus in 27 B.C. Pantheon built, 27 B.C., rebuilt, A.D. 123. Dances introduced on Roman stage 22 B.C. Ara Pacis built in time of Augustus, about 9 B.C. Surrender of Britains in A.D. 51. Beginning of the persecution of the Christians by Nero, A.D. 64. Destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum by eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, A.D. 79. Arch of Titus, A.D. 81. Trajan’s column, A.D. 113. Building of road, ditches and stone wall in North Britain by Emperor Hadrian, A.D. 122. End of prosperity in Rome, A.D. 180. Fall of Western Roman Empire, A.D. 476.

      CHAPTER 5

      Rome

      HISTORY

      Rome was becoming influential, but was still borrowing ideas in art as well as in costume from the Greeks. The latter continued to exert a widespread cultural influence on the world. Greece had been the Fashion Center for some time and held her lead in this field until the 5th century A.D.

      Economic prosperity and successful military expeditions were important factors in building up the power of the Roman Empire. Rome, located on the bank of the Tiber, was originally a small city state but eventually the boundaries of the Empire extended to include western Europe and the countries around the Mediterranean. By the reign of Trajan she was the great power of the civilized world except for the Far East.

      During the kingdom of Rome, there were two groups of citizens, the patricians, who were the aristocrats and claimed to be descendants of the original founders of Latium, and the plebeians, the lower class of laborers and yeomen. An assembly of the people elected the king, the candidates being selected from only a few eligible families. Under the rule of Tarquinius Superbus, the patricians revolted in 509 B.C. and created the Republic with a conservative constitution. Executive power was given to two annually-elected consuls who appointed a dictator whose office was for only six months. The