The Isle of Mull. Terry Marsh

or balaclava, gloves or mittens, spare clothing, maps, compass, whistle, survival bag, emergency rations, first aid kit, food and drink for the day, all carried in a suitable rucksack

       Let someone know where you are going

       Learn to use a map and compass effectively, and don’t venture into hazardous terrain until you can

       Make sure you know how to get a local weather forecast

       Know basic first aid – your knowledge could save a life

       Plan your route according to your ability, and be honest about your ability and expertise

       Never be afraid to turn back

       Be aware of your surroundings – keep an eye on the weather, your companions, and other people

       Take extra care during descent

       Be winter-wise – snow lingers in the corries well into summer. If snow lies across or near your intended route, take an ice axe (and the knowledge to use it properly).

       Have some idea of emergency procedures. As a minimum you should know how to call out a mountain rescue team (dial 999), and, from any point in your walk, know the quickest way to a telephone. You should also know something of the causes, treatment and ways of avoiding mountain hypothermia.

       Respect the mountain environment – be conservation minded

      On Mull it is vital to be properly equipped and to walk within your capabilities and experience; self-sufficiency is especially important here. There is no mountain rescue service on Mull – the nearest is in Oban. So, the consequences of an accident may well be far worse than if rescue was closer to hand. Be well prepared.

      In the event of an accident, telephone the police, but bear in mind, too, that mobile phone reception on Mull is neither extensive nor reliable.

Maps

      1:50,000

      All the walks in this book can be found on the following Ordnance Survey Landranger Sheets:

       47 Tobermory and North Mull

       48 Iona and West Mull

       49 Oban and East Mull.

      1:25,000

      Of greater use to walkers on Mull are Ordnance Survey Explorer maps, and for the whole of Mull you will need the following sheets:

       373 Iona, Staff and Ross of Mull

       374 Isle of Mull North and Tobermory

       375 Isle of Mull East: Craignure.

      All OS maps are all available from www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk.

Paths

      Not all the paths mentioned in the text appear on maps. And where they do, there is no guarantee that they still exist on the ground, remain continuous or well defined.

      A number of the walks go close to the top of dangerous cliffs, both coastal and inland. Here the greatest care is required, especially in windy conditions. Do not, for any reason, venture close to cliff tops. Some of the routes rely on sheep tracks, which make useful paths in otherwise trackless areas. Sheep, however, do not appear to suffer from vertigo, and don’t travel about with awkward, laden sacks on their backs. If a track goes towards a cliff, avoid it, and find a safer, more distant, alternative. Burns should be crossed at the most suitable (and safest) point, which can involve lengthy, and higher, detours in spate conditions. Do not allow the frustrations of such a detour to propel you into attempting a lower crossing against your better judgement.

      If there are children in your party, keep them under close supervision and control at all times.

      With only a small but growing number of exceptions, paths are not waymarked or signposted. Many of the mountain paths, however, are cairned. In a constantly developing environment like Mull, changes often occur to routes, especially through forests (where trees are felled), or on coastal walks (as a result of landslip, for example). See the Advice to Readers box at the front of the book for information about how to let Cicerone know of any changes that you come across for the benefit of future walkers.

      The path around the Calgary headland (Walk 1.9)

1 NORTH MULL

      Caliach Point sea cliffs (Walk 1.9)

      INTRODUCTION

      The north of Mull boasts little in the way of significant upland; the highest point, Speinne Mòr, rises to a mere 444m (1456ft). But what it does have is a bounty of coastal walking – some of the finest on the island – and quite an array of woodland and moorland walks. There are only two important settlements here – Tobermory and Dervaig – three if you include Salen, which sits on the arbitrary boundary between north and central Mull.

      A goodly proportion of north Mull is forested, although clearing is currently an on-going feature, but there is also a great swathe of open moorland, generally of the most demanding kind where only experienced walkers should venture away from the established paths and trails.

      South of Tobermory lies the area known as Aros, while to the north and west are Mishnish and Quinish respectively, where the tell-tale signs of lava bedrock ripple away into the distance. What makes this region of Mull especially appealing is the convoluted nature of the terrain; this is a hummocky, undulating, twisted landscape of considerable beauty, bringing new vistas at almost every step and exposing the visitor to enticing views of surrounding islands, Coll and Tiree, and the mainland fastnesses of Morvern and Ardnamurchan.

      Further west, headland points like Caliach and Treshnish, especially the latter, provide some of the finest walking on Mull, where interest is constantly maintained and the evidence of past ways of life litter the landscape and raise their tumbled remains above the encroaching bracken and heather.

      Rainbow over Eileanan Glasa

      North Mull is for walkers rather than mountaineers, and provides considerable scope to invent walks and pit yourself against the ruggedness of the land, where navigation skills need to be of the highest order. Many walks described in this book take you far away from outside help, and so the ability to self-help in rugged terrain is of paramount importance. In return, you will be rewarded with days of solitude and tranquillity where eagles dare and otters make the most of the coast and inland lochs.

WALK 1.1

      Tobermory and Aros Park

Start	Tobermory car park (NM 505 551)
Distance	5.5km (3½ miles)
Ascent	90m (295ft)
Terrain	Woodland and lakeside paths
Map	OS Explorer 374 Isle of Mull North and Tobermory

      Aros Park is a green lung for Tobermory, not that it needs it, given the breezy ozone that permanently mantles the town. But this sometime estate park, now owned by the Forestry Commission, is linked to Tobermory for good reason: it is the perfect place to explore a managed estate woodland, to enjoy the ornamental lake carpeted with water lilies, and to harvest a bounty of brambles in season. The woodlands are rich and