The Isle of Mull. Terry Marsh

operate from London and stations in between to Glasgow via the West Coast line – see www.virgintrains.co.uk for more information.

      The railway from Glasgow follows much of the same route as that used by cars and buses, although the early stages on leaving Glasgow differ until you reach Tarbert.

      For National Rail Enquiries, call 08457 48 49 50 (24 hours, seven days a week). See also www.thetrainline.com.

      By ferry

      Caledonian MacBrayne operates all the ferry services running to Mull (The Ferry Terminal, Gourock PA19 1QP; tel: [phone]; fax: [phone]; booking hotline: [phone]. You can book online at www.calmac.co.uk.

Getting Around

      Although there is an adequate bus service across the island, exploring Mull is best accomplished on foot, on a bike, or by car. But it is important to realise that most of the roads on Mull are single track roads with passing places. There are no urban motorways here, no high-speed roads on which it is safe to drive at high speeds, and the only dual carriageway is brief and single track, just south of Salen.

      One of the continuing delights of Mull is that you can achieve quite significant circuits on its limited road network but the limitations of the roads make journeys longer than might be expected. From Craignure to Tobermory it is about 33km (21 miles), but it is a journey that will take around 45 minutes; the road is good as far as Salen, but then becomes single track. Craignure to Fionnphort is 56km (35 miles), a beautiful drive, but one that will take at least an hour.

      Cars are not permitted on Iona, Ulva or Gometra. These islands are for pedestrians, and getting there is easy.

      Getting to Iona

      Caledonian MacBrayne operates a frequent service between Fionnphort and Iona (tel: [phone] or 01680 812343; website: www.calmac.co.uk).

      Getting to Ulva and Gometra

      Ulva is reached by a two-minute crossing on demand – signal at the pier. The ferry operates from Easter to the end of September, Mon–Fri (and Sun, June to August only), 9am–5pm, and from the end of September to Easter, Mon–Fri for the post and the school run only (call the boathouse (01688 500241) or the ferryman (01688 500226 or 07919 902407) the day before to confirm times).

      Gometra can be reached by a bridge from Ulva, or by a direct, small, fast or semi-fast ferry on Loch Tuath (tel: [phone] in the evening, or enquire at the tourist information office in Craignure).

      Driving on Mull

      Passing places are identified by either a white diamond or a black-and-white pole. These spaces serve two purposes: the first is to allow oncoming traffic to proceed; the other, often ignored, is to allow following vehicles to overtake. If a vehicle is following closely behind you must allow it to pass – it is an offence not to do so. But, always stop on the left when using passing places. If the passing place is on your right, wait opposite it to allow traffic to pass. You must not cross to the right; keep left. Following cars may be local tradesman going about their business; it is a courtesy to allow them to get on.

      Driving slowly is not an issue, in any case there are few places where you can safely put your foot down. No-one minds how slowly you drive, as long as you let others pass; in fact, the slower you drive, the greater the likelihood of spotting something interesting. Do not park in passing places, not even briefly; they are not viewpoints. Bear in mind, too, that the nature of the roads on Mull means that you will be doing a lot of slowing down and starting off again. This means increased wear and tear on brakes and tyres, as well as increased fuel consumption.

Accommodation

      Tobermory is the main town, and offers a range of accommodation from hotels to guest houses, B&Bs and a youth hostel. Elsewhere, and generally across the whole island group, there are guest houses and B&Bs in good number. Camping and caravan sites are few and far between – see Appendix C for details. All main facilities are available in Tobermory, including the island’s only static bank (the Royal Bank of Scotland has a mobile banking service). Elsewhere, the facilities are intended primarily for locals rather than visitors.

Communications

      Postal services are the same as for mainland Britain, but there is poor, limited and variable mobile phone coverage across much of the island.

      There are very few places where you can connect to the internet, and such as there are will be found in Tobermory. Most hotels, however, do now have wireless connections.

      English is spoken everywhere; Gaelic hardly at all. Until within the last hundred years, however, Gaelic was the everyday language; today it is heard only among a small number of the older population. Yet, in Salen school, there is a Gaelic unit teaching children from three to 11 years old in Gaelic, and the Mull Gaelic Choir (Còisir Ghàidhlig an Eilein Mhuilich) is renowned throughout Scotland.

      Walking along the raised beach, Treshnish (Walk 1.10)

Using This Guide

      Walking on Mull ranges from short and easy outings not far from civilisation, to rugged, hard mountain, moorland and coastal walking – as demanding as any in Britain – in isolated locations, where help is far away. Almost all of it demands a high level of fitness and knowledge of the techniques and requirements necessary to travel safely in wild countryside in very changeable weather conditions, including the ability to use map and compass properly.

      The walks in this book are widely varied in character and will provide something for everyone, embracing high mountains, lonely lochs, coastal cliffs, glens and forests. Many walks visit places that are less well known, where self-sufficiency is critically important. But every walk is just that, a walk, and does not require rock climbing or scrambling skills beyond the most fundamental; ironically those skills are more likely to be tested along stretches of the rugged coastline than on the high mountains.

      All parts of the island are visited, and the chosen walks will provide an excuse for many visits to the island, and allow walkers to evade inclement weather in one part of the island by taking on walks in another.

      Each walk description begins with a short introduction, and provides starting and finishing points, as well as a calculation of the distance and height gain, and an indication of the terrain which will be encountered. The walks are grouped largely within the generally recognised regions of Mull, and, within those areas, in a reasonably logical order.

      Peak bagging

      Ben More (Walk 2.9)

      This book has not been written to facilitate peak bagging. But, for the record, Mull has just one Munro (Ben More), one Corbett and seven Grahams. If you collect Marilyns, then you have 27 to contend with on Mull and the adjacent islands, only 11 of which are included in the book. Information about the mountains database as it concerns Mull is found at www.hills-database.co.uk.

       Based on a list originally published in 1891 by Sir Hugh Munro, Munros are Scottish hills that are at least 3000ft (914m) in height and considered to be distinct and separate mountains.

       Corbetts are the range of Scottish hills beneath Munros. They are between 2500 and 2999ft (762–914m) high with a drop of 500ft (150m) on all sides.

       Grahams are Scottish hills between 2000 and 2499ft (609–762m) high with a drop of 500ft (150m) on all sides.

       Marilyns are British hills of any height with a drop of at least 150m on all sides.

      Distances

      Distances