Let's Go Europe 2019. Harvard Student Agencies

from 11am) is practically gourmet. Try fried risotto with apples, roasted nuts, and mustard vinaigrette, or Asian congee with ginger and peanuts. As you might expect from a porridge restaurant, Grød has the whole coffee-in-mason-jar vibe going and emphasizes its use of seasonal and organic ingredients.

       i Morning menu from DKK 45, afternoon menu from DKK 65; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; no wheelchair accessibility

       NEXT DOOR CAFÉ ($)

      Larsbjørnsstræde 23; 27 12 08 18; www.nextdoorcafe.dk; open M-F 7am-6pm, Sa-Su 9am-6pm

      Too often, city center cafés are overpriced and underwhelming, filled with middle-aged tourist couples, reheated pastries, and generic jazz tracks. Not so with Next Door Café. This place is authentic, fun, and always hopping. The basement café is painted entirely in different shades of purple, and the young, tattooed staff bounces the music between pop and hip-hop favorites like Latch and Jason Drool (wait, is he still considered a favorite?). Grab an American-style breakfast of pancakes or a lunch sandwich on homemade bread, and squeeze in at one of the glass-topped tables proudly displaying a wild selection items like banknotes from around the world, hotel room keys, and boarding passes. Enjoy the youthful energy, but don’t get carried away and join in by accidentally leaving behind something important!

       i Breakfast plates from DKK 40, lunch sandwiches from DKK 50, coffee and espresso drinks from DKK 20; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; no wheelchair accessibility

       PALUDAN BOG & CAFÉ ($)

      Fiolestræde 10; 33 15 06 75; www.paludan-cafe.dk; open M-Th 9am-10pm, F 9am-11pm, Sa 10am-11pm, Su 10am-10pm

      Picture an aspiring author, furiously scribbling away on a yellow legal pad, surrounded by books and empty coffee cups, and you already have a good idea of what Paludan is like. It’s an all-day café and book store right in the heart of downtown Copenhagen filled with textured acrylic paintings, tables and decorations that toe the line between retro and shabby chic, and of course, books. All kinds of books, from paperback leaflets to leather-bound tomes, probably containing old secrets of alchemy, or unlikelier still, a proper English translation of hygge. The ground floor restaurant serves three meals a day, as well as a wide selection of coffee and espresso drinks, and since Paludan is right next to Copenhagen University, everything is reasonably priced.

       i Coffee and espresso drinks from DKK 20, brunch plates from DKK 60; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible

       NIGHTLIFE

       BAKKEN

      Flæsketorvet 19; www.bakkenkbh.dk; open W 9am-3am, Th-Sa 5pm-5am

      Bakken is a no-nonsense, unpretentious nightclub in Copenhagen’s meatpacking district in Vesterbro, home to some of the city’s best nightlife. It’s the kind of place where the bouncer gives you the once over, and then remembers that Bakken lets just about everyone in. Energy levels are high, thanks to the soul-shaking electronic and dance music pumped out by weekend DJs, and even the bartenders want in on the fun, often drinking with the customers, each other, or just about anybody who will join them. Don’t expect to debate the finer points of philosophy here, but if you’re looking for a place that will blow out your eardrums, Bakken is a go-to.

       i No cover, beer from DKK 30, mixed drinks from DKK 60, shots from DKK 25; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible

       MIKKELLER BAR

      Viktoriagade 8; 1655; 33310415; www.mikkeller.dk; open M-W 1pm-1am, Th-F 1pm-2am, Sa noon-2am, Su 1pm-1am

      There are lots of microbreweries in Copenhagen, but Mikkeller is the darling of them all. It gained fame as a “gypsy” brewery (these guys are better at beer than at political correctness), meaning that it didn’t actually own its own brewery and relied mainly on collaborations. Today, it has locations all over the world, including several in the US, but the original is still its Vesterbro location. This basement bar has 20 ever-changing craft brews on tap. The whitewashed brick beer mecca is the place where people come for a drink after a long, six-hour Danish work day, whether they want to talk about beer, or simply enjoy it.

       i Beer from DKK 55, bar snacks from DKK 30; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility

       NØRREBRO BRYGHUS

      Ryesgade 3; 35 30 05 30; www.noerrebrobryghus.dk; open M-Th noon-11pm, F-Sa noon-1pm, Su noon-10pm

      The clink of glasses and murmurs of light chatter filter their way downstairs, where candlelight flickers across exposed brick walls. It’s Nørrebro Bryghus, a microbrewery. This place isn’t just for the casual beer lover, though. It’s for people who love drinking good beer, and don’t mind feeling classy while they do it. The whole place is dimly lit, in a somehow classy way, by bare, incandescent bulbs, and the ultramodern exposed ventilation ducts balance the retro feel of brick in the basement.

       i Beer from DKK 65; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility

       TEMPLE BAR

      Nørrebrogade 48; 35 37 44 14; open M-W 3pm-2am, Th 3pm-3am, F-Sa 3pm-5am, Su 3pm-1am

      Surprisingly, smoking indoors is not completely prohibited in Denmark; it’s legal in establishments smaller than 40 square meters. These bars have become local favorites all over Copenhagen, and Temple Bar is one of the best in Nørrebro. It’s a dive bar in the middle of one of the city’s hip neighborhoods that flatly rejects the maddening principles of Scandinavian simplicity. Cheap drinks, a student special on beer, and a pool table on the smoky second floor draw crowds of young people looking for a low-key place to drink and smoke. If you don’t want to smell like an ashtray, the first floor is smoke-free.

       i Beer from DKK 40, shots and mixed drinks from DKK 25; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility

      DENMARK ESSENTIALS

       VISAS

      Denmark is a member of the European Union and is part of the Schengen Area, so US citizens can stay in Denmark for up to 90 days without a visa.

       MONEY

      Denmark’s currency is the Danish krone, officially abbreviated DKK and locally used interchangeably with kr.

      Credit/Debit Cards: Like in Sweden and Norway, cards are accepted at the vast majority of establishments, and some are even cash free. However, in Denmark, you are more likely to be charged a small fee for using an international card. The fee is usually small (no more than 3-4% of the value of the transaction), but consider cash if you’re worried, though it’s worth noting you could be charged a similar fee for withdrawing from a foreign ATM. Check with your bank about foreign fees.

      Tipping: Tipping in Denmark is neither expected nor required; in fact, a service charge is normally included in the bill at most restaurants. As always, a tip is appreciated, so if you feel you received exceptional service, feel free to round up the bill or tip 5-10%.

      Taxes: Like it’s Scandinavian neighbors, Denmark has a sky-high VAT rate of 25%, which is included in all prices. Tip: Some stores in Denmark,