Let's Go Europe 2019. Harvard Student Agencies

expensive (can’t argue there), and they’re obsessed with Vikings. In short, they’re great places to travel, but get a bit sleepy after a few days. Copenhagen is different. It’s not just the capital city of Denmark; it feels like the cultural capital of all of Scandinavia. Between the city itself and the many towns within reach via commuter rail, Copenhagen boasts truly impressive Renaissance castles, Baroque gardens that would make Louis XIV raise an eyebrow, and one of the best food and microbrewery scenes in the north. You’ll feel right at home in Copenhagen’s vibrant young population, filled with starving art majors and wingtip-clad startup founders alike. There’s something for everyone here, from the casual nightclubs of the Meatpacking District and the smoky bars of Nørrebro, to the bohemian paradise of Christiania with its alternative architecture and open marijuana trade. The discerning diner will love Copenhagen’s massive food halls and local delicacies. Don’t miss the smørrebrød or the greasy, crunchy goodness of flæskesteg. The casual cyclist will be amazed both by the sophistication of the city’s bike lanes, and by how uncharacteristically aggressive a Dane on a bicycle can be. It won’t be cheap (nothing in the Nordics ever is), but Copenhagen is one of the only Scandinavian cities where you could spend a week and still not have scratched the surface. It’s small but busy, modern but timeless, and of course, it’s very, very hygge.

       ORIENTATION

      The city center of Copenhagen (also known as Indre By or København K), extends from Copenhagen Central Station all the way to the northern end of the city. Like city centers everywhere, it’s touristy, crowded, and expensive. It’s also where you’ll find many of Copenhagen’s main attractions, including Strøget (one of Europe’s longest pedestrianized shopping streets), a number of museums and palaces, and the people-watching meccas of Kongens Nytorv and Nyhavn. Just to the east is Christianshavn, a network of islands and canals constructed by Christian IV in the style of Amsterdam. Within Christianshavn is the offbeat community (and favorite of twenty-somethings from all over the world) of Christiania, famous for its open marijuana trade. North of the city center is Østerbro, an upscale residential neighborhood with plentiful parks and high prices. Just west is a funkier alternative: Nørrebro, a classic example of a once-heavily-immigrant neighborhood overtaken by broke hipsters and art students. Directly west of the city center is Frederiksberg, another wealthy neighborhood filled with parks and baby strollers (Frederiksberg Have and the Cisterns are worth a visit). South of Frederiksberg is Vesterbro, home to the Meatpacking District and old Carlsberg Brewery. Copenhagen is also a great hub for exploring other cities on the island of Zealand, Denmark’s largest (except Greenland). To the west is Roskilde, one of Denmark’s foremost Viking cities, and to the north are Helsingør and Hillerød, home to famous Renaissance castles.

       ESSENTIALS

      GETTING THERE

      Copenhagen Airport, Kastrup (CPH), known as Københavns Lufthavn in Danish, is Scandinavia’s busiest airport. The metro is the easiest way to get to the airport; Copenhagen’s main train station is Copenhagen Central Station (København H), which connects to the rest of Scandinavia and other major European cities.

      GETTING AROUND

      Copenhagen’s public transportation system includes buses, a metro, and trains, which are all covered under the same ticket. The capital region is divided into zones, with ticket prices varying accordingly. Tickets can be purchased at metro stations and at 7-Elevens, but you can also buy them on buses (with cash). A 24hr pass is DKK 80, and a 72hr pass is DKK 200. Copenhagen has a city bike program, but they’re expensive (DKK 30 per hour) and bulky since they’re equipped with unnecessary electric motors. Renting from a shop or company like Donkey Republic is a better option. With so many bikes on the road, know that Danes bike with a purpose and don’t tolerate slow cyclists or pedestrians clogging up the bike lane, so make sure to stay clear. Additionally, city bus stops are often set up so that dismounting passengers step right into the bike lane, so look both ways before you get off the bus.

      PRACTICAL INFORMATION

      Tourist Offices: Copenhagen Visitor Service (Vesterbrogade 4; 70 22 24 42; check www.visitcopenhagen.com for monthly hours, but generally 9am-5pm or later during high season).

      Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in Copenhagen, though some places may charge a small fee for using an international card. ATMs (often called pengeautomat, or some variation thereof) can be found on the street and outside most banks. A branch of Forex Bank can be found inside Copenhagen Central Station (33 11 22 20; open daily 8am-9pm).

      Post Offices: There is a centrally located post office on Pilestræde (Pilestræde 58; 70 70 70 30; open M-F 8:30am-7pm, Sa 8:30am-2pm).

      Internet: Internet is widely available in Copenhagen. Most cafés and many museums provide free Wi-Fi, as do Copenhagen Central Station and the visitor center.

      BGLTQ+ Resources: Denmark is one of the most gay-friendly cities in the world and in Scandinavia, and that’s saying a lot. It’s home to Denmark’s oldest gay bar, Centralhjørnet, and a number of guides, and even an app (GAY CPH) is dedicated to BGLTQ+ travel. LGBT Denmark is the national organization for BGLTQ+ advocacy (Nygade 7; 33 13 19 48).

      EMERGENCY INFORMATION

      Emergency Number: 112. In non-emergency situations, call 1813 for a nurse or doctor, or 114 for police.

      Police: Politigården, the Copenhagen Police Headquarters, is located near Copenhagen Central Station (open M-F 8am-9pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm).

      US Embassy: There is a US Embassy in Copenhagen (Dag Hammarskjölds Allé 24; 33 41 71 00; telephone open M-F 8:30am-5pm, appointments from M-Th 9am-noon).

      Rape Crisis Center: The Centre for Victims of Sexual Assault at Rigshospitalet in Østerbro has a 24-hour crisis center and hotline (Blegdamsvej 9; 35 45 50 32).

      Hospitals: Always call 1813 before visiting an emergency room, or you may not be admitted. The doctor or nurse you talk to will also help you find the nearest hospital (Bispebjerg Hospital; Bispebjerg Bakke 23; 35 31 35 31).

      Pharmacies: Pharmacies (called apotek in Danish) are common on the street. Steno Apotek near Copenhagen Central Station is open 24hr (Vesterbrogade 6C; 33 14 82 66).

       ACCOMMODATIONS

       GENERATOR HOSTEL ($$)

      Adelgade 5-7; 78 77 54 00; www.generatorhostels.com/copenhagen; reception open 24hr

      Generator has built arguably the most successful hostel franchise in Europe, and its Copenhagen location doesn’t disappoint. It feels like the kind of place a Saudi prince might stay—you know, if Saudi princes stayed in hostels and not five-star hotels. Most dorms have ensuite bathrooms, the bar has two happy hours each night, and the lounge area has arcade games, pool tables, and plenty of plush couches for lounging. Its location near Copenhagen’s largest square is close to the lively nightlife along Gothersgade, and provides easy access to Nørrebro. The one downside: there’s no guest kitchen. But Saudi princes don’t cook for themselves anyway.

       i Dorms from DKK 250, privates from DKK 600; reservation recommended; BGLTQ+ friendly; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi; linens included; storage lockers provided; laundry DKK 50; breakfast DKK 75

       COPENHAGEN DOWNTOWN HOSTEL ($)

      Vandkunsten