Wine Faults and Flaws. Keith Grainger

and count the number of seconds that the taste sensations last. The sensations delivered by poor quality and inexpensive wines will disappear after 5–10 seconds (short length), and any remaining sensations are likely to be unpleasant. Acceptable quality wines will have a length of 11–20 seconds (medium length), good wine 20–30 seconds (long length) and outstanding wines a length of 30 seconds or more (very long length). Truly excellent wines may have a length that runs into minutes. It is important that throughout this test of length, the sensations remain in tune with the actual taste of the wine, and also that everything remains in balance. The taster may wish to adjust the number of seconds timing given above for the various lengths to their own, individual perceptions.

      Finish may be considered on a scale that runs from short, to very long. If any unpleasant characteristics dominate the length, they will affect the quality and should be noted accordingly. For example, a wine with unripe tannins and other bitter compounds might have a medium or even longer length. However, the bitterness will dominate, and the nature of the length becomes increasingly unpleasant. Sometimes faults that might not have manifested themselves previously become apparent on the finish of the wine. On occasions, these may include haloanisoles at a medium level – see Chapter 3 and smoke taint at a low level – see Chapter 12.

2.8 Assessment of Quality

      2.8.1 Quality Level

Quality judgements are framework dependent. This poses a dilemma. Do we consider the quality of a wine only within the context of its peer group or against the entire wine world? Can a wine such as Beaujolais, which is usually made for early drinking in a soft, immediately approachable style, be described as outstanding quality even though it is carefully crafted, exquisitely perfumed, expressive of its origin and superior to most others of its type? The key to answering such questions is to be as objective as possible in the assessment, noting the quality of the wine, as perceived by the taster, according to the origin and price levels of the wine.

      2.8.2 Reasons for Assessment of Quality

      It is, of course, very possible that many wines of outstanding quality are not to our palate and, on occasions, simple wines may be very appealing. The reasons for our quality judgements should be logical and as possible. When reviewing the tasting assessment, consideration should be given to the intensity, concentration and complexity of nose and flavours on the palate, the structure of the wine, the balance, and length of finish. The following guidelines form a framework for quality assessments:

       Faulty: showing one or more faults, at a level that makes the wine unpalatable;

       Poor: a wine that is, and will always be, unbalanced and poorly structured. A wine with light intensity, very simple one‐dimensional fruit flavours, maybe some flaws, and short finish;

       Acceptable: straightforward wine with simple fruit, of medium intensity, somewhat lacking in complexity, with a medium finish;

       Good: an absence of faults or flaws, well‐balanced, medium or pronounced intensity and with a smooth texture, complexity, layers of flavours, and development on palate, fairly long or long finish;

       Very good: a complex wine, concentrated fruit, very good structure, well‐balanced, long length of finish;

       Outstanding: intense fruit, and or tertiary flavours, perfect balance, very expressive and complex, classic typicity of its origin and very long length of finish.

      A wine of very good or outstanding quality will present the taster with an unbroken ‘line’, i.e. a continuity from the sensations of attack, when the wine first enters the mouth, through the mid‐palate and on to the finish. It will develop and change in the glass and gain complexity. In other words, it will not say all it has to say within a few seconds of the initial nose and taste. An outstanding wine will also exude a clear, definable, and individual personality, true to its origin, making a confident statement of time and place. It will excite in a way that seems to go beyond the organoleptic sensations. In other words, it will have the ability to move the taster in a similar way to a work of literature, art, or music.

The ‘line’ of a wine, as detailed above, may be depicted visually in the form of a palate profile. This is a graph that illustrates the intensity and the texture of a wine from the attack (front‐palate) through to the mid‐palate, to the back‐palate and to the finish. An example of a palate profile is shown in Figure 2.5.

Figure 2.5 Palate profile.

      It will be noted that a criterion for a wine to be assessed as good, very good, or outstanding quality is the absence of any fault or flaw. As previously discussed, this can be a contentious issue. There are technical faults which, at low levels, and dependent upon their relationship with the multiflorous compounds giving aromas, tastes, structure, and texture to a wine may be acceptable or even add complexity and an extra quality dimension.

2.9 Assessment of Readiness for Drinking/Potential for Ageing

      2.9.1 The Life‐Cycle of a Wine

      The topic of when wines are ready for drinking and the assessment of this during tasting is, by nature, complex. The life‐cycle of wines depends on several factors: origin, colour, style, structure, and particularly quality. Inexpensive wines, be they red, rosé, or white, are made to be drunk immediately. The reds will generally have been made without, or with little, post‐fermentation skin maceration that would give tannic structure. They will have been highly processed, including fine‐filtration and technical stabilisation before bottling. A period of three or four years in the bottle is the maximum keepability, and after this time they will have lost fruit and become ‘dried‐out’. The further we move up the price and quality scales, the more wines benefit from some bottle ageing. Fine red wines are designed for bottle maturation. The time taken for them to reach their peak, and just how long they will remain there, will vary according to the quality and style of the vintage, the origin of the wine, and the winemaking techniques. The intensity of fruit on the nose and flavour on the palate are important indicators, but these may be ‘closed’ in youth. The components of solid structure, including medium to high levels of tannin, medium to high acidity and appropriate alcohol content, are the key indicators to a red that will improve in bottle. In youth, these will be fragmented, and to the novice, the wine will appear hard and unbalanced. Considerable bottle ageing will be required for them to evolve and integrate. High acidity, in particular, is a great preservative, but balance is crucial.

      2.9.2 Level of Readiness for Drinking/Potential for Ageing

All wines have a window of drinkability, beyond which they will be in a state of decline, either slow or rapid, the latter particularly in the case of low quality wines. Within the window of drinkability, there will, in the case of high‐quality wines, be a period when a wine is at its peak, in perfect balance and expressing complex tones that almost defy description. The tertiary characteristics will be fully developed, and the length of finish will be at a maximum. Unfortunately, there can be a disparity in the peak of drinkability between individual bottles of the same wine, sometimes due to the efficiency of the closure, but also if the storage temperature and other conditions have been inconsistent. As wines decline, the fruit will start to dry out. Richness will fade, oxidative and vegetal characteristics may overwhelm, bitterness comes to the fore, and the length of finish diminish. A decrepit wine may show high levels of oxidation and other faults. There are numerous factors the taster might consider in reaching an assessment as to where a wine is in its life‐cycle including development on the nose