Walking in Italy's Stelvio National Park. Gillian Price

the water may be labelled non potabile (undrinkable) if supplies come from snow-melt. Check with the staff if in doubt.

       Although food is available at huts on the majority of walks described here, it is best not to rely on them – always be self-sufficient and carry generous amounts of your own. Bad weather, minor accidents and all manner of unforeseen factors could hold you up on the track, and that extra biscuit or energy bar could become crucial.

       Mineral salt tablets are helpful in combating salt depletion and dehydration caused by profuse sweating; unexplained prolonged fatigue and symptoms similar to heatstroke indicate a problem.

Maps

      The Stelvio National Park has an excellent network of paths, each marked with frequently placed red/white paint stripes on prominent fence posts, tree trunks and rocks, and complete with its own distinguishing number. Note that path numbers were recently changed across the park in line with a nationwide campaign to standardise waymarking. The old faded numbers are still visible on the ground in places, although new ones appear on signposts and updated editions of maps so there should be no cause for confusion.

      Waymarking on a tree trunk

      Sketch maps are provided in this guidebook showing the layout of the walk, with essential landmarks. Limitations of space make it impossible to include full details – essential in an emergency – so it is imperative that walkers obtain a commercial map. The Tabacco ‘carta topografica per escursionisti’ 1:25,000 scale series is one of the clearest on the market (www.tabaccoeditrice.com). These maps use a continuous red line for a wide track, while a broken red line indicates a marked path of average difficulty. Red dots denote routes that are exposed, difficult or faint, while red crosses denote aided sections such as cable or ladders as well as full-blooded via ferrata routes.

      Signposts in Valfurva

      The relevant sheets are:

       N.08 Ortles-Cevedale Ortlergebiet for Walks 16–22, 25–31

       N.045 Laces-Val Martello-Silandro for Walks 1–3, 32–38

       N.048 Val di Peio-Val di Rabbi-Val di Sole for Walks 4–15

      The maps are sold in shops throughout the Stelvio National Park as well as leading outdoor suppliers and booksellers worldwide. In the UK consult The Map Shop (www.themapshop.co.uk) or Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk) if you prefer to purchase them beforehand.

      All the walks are covered by Tabacco, with the exception of Walks 23 and 24, for which you need the new Ingenua 1:25,000 scale maps. Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio Sheet 2 covers Walks 16–25 and 27–31. Order from www.cartoguide.it or purchase at Bormio.

      Lastly, www.altavaltellina.eu also do 1:25,000 maps at a cheap €1, although the graphics are not always clear and route difficulty is not shown.

      Kompass also has a good range of walking maps that cover the Stelvio (www.kompass-italia.it).

      A note on place names: in the Südtirol region of Italy they are bilingual – German and Italian – on maps, signposts and refuges. Both are used in this guidebook the first time they are mentioned, thereafter the German is given preference as that is the region’s dominant language.

      There is an Italian–German–English glossary of topographic and other useful terms in Appendix B.

Dos and don’ts

      It is better to arrive early and dry, than late and wet.

       Find time to get in good shape before setting out on your holiday, as it will maximise your enjoyment. You will appreciate the wonderful scenery more if you are not exhausted, and you will react better in an emergency.

       Do not be overly ambitious – choose itineraries suited to your capabilities. Read the walk description carefully before setting out.

       Always leave word at your hotel of your planned route, or sign the hut register if staying in a rifugio, as this may come in helpful for rescuers.

       Do not set out late and always have extra time up your sleeve to allow for detours due to missing bridges or signposts, and wrong turns. Plan on getting to your destination early in hot weather as afternoon storms are not uncommon. As a general rule, start out early morning to give yourself plenty of daylight.

       Stick with your companions and do not lose sight of them. Remember that the progress of groups matches that of the slowest member.

       Avoid walking in brand new footwear, or you will get blisters; but leave old worn-out boots in the shed as they may prove unsafe on slippery terrain. Choose your footwear carefully.

       Do not overload your rucksack.

       Carry extra protective clothing as well as energy foods for emergency situations. Remember that the temperature drops an average of 6°C for every 1000m you climb.

       Check the weather forecast if possible – tourist offices and hut guardians are always in the know. For the Südtirol see www.suedtirol.information, Trentino has www.meteotrentino.it and Lombardia http://ita.arpalombardia.it. Never set out on a long route in adverse conditions. Even a broad, level track can become treacherous in bad weather, and high-altitude terrain enveloped in thick mist makes orientation difficult. An altimeter is useful – when a known altitude (such as that of the refuge) goes up, this means the atmospheric pressure has dropped and the weather could change for the worse.

       Do carry your rubbish back to the valley where it can be disposed of correctly; do not expect hut or park staff to deal with it. Even organic waste such as apple cores and orange peel is best not left lying around as it upsets the diet of animals and birds.

       Be considerate when making a toilet stop. Keep away from watercourses, do not leave unsightly paper lying around and remember that abandoned huts and rock overhangs could serve as life-saving shelter for someone else.

       Collecting flowers, insects or minerals is strictly forbidden, as are fires.

       Learn the international call for help, described in the following section. DO NOT rely on your mobile phone as many alpine valleys have no signal. Refuges have landlines and experienced staff can always be relied on in an emergency. In electrical storms, do not shelter under trees or rock overhangs and keep away from metallic fixtures.

       Lastly, do not leave your common sense at home.

      The path draws close to Lago di Pian Palù (Walk 15)

Emergencies

      For medical matters EU residents need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Holders are entitled to free or subsidised emergency treatment in Italy, which has an excellent national health service. UK residents can apply online at www.dh.gov.uk. Australia similarly has a reciprocal agreement – see www.medicareaustralia.gov.au. Other nationalities should take out suitable insurance. In any case travel insurance for a walking holiday is strongly recommended as costs in the case of rescue and repatriation can be hefty. Members of alpine clubs are usually covered,