Walking in Italy's Stelvio National Park. Gillian Price

to avoid disappointment. If you are driving through, look out for signs saying camera libera (Italian) or Zimmer frei (German) signs.

      Camping and overnight bivouacs are strictly forbidden within the Stelvio National Park, except in emergencies. A tent is still a good option for a low-budget holiday but be aware that campsites are few and far between – see Appendix C for listings.

      Approaching Tabarettahütte (Walk 29)

      Although all the walks described in this guidebook are designed to be completed in a single day to allow for a return to valley accommodation, an overnight stay in a high-altitude alpine rifugio (refuge) is always a memorable experience and can be the highlight of a walking holiday. With the odd exception at road level, these refuges are located in spectacular high-altitude positions accessible only on foot. They are generally open from late June to late September/October (although a handful open in spring for ski tourers).

      Refuges offer reasonably priced meals and refreshments as well as sleeping facilities that range from spartan dormitories with bunk beds to cosy simple guest rooms. Pillows and blankets are always provided so sleeping bags are not needed. Sleeping sheets are, however, compulsory in club huts so carry your own. You will also need a small towel. Flip-flops or lightweight rubber sandals are a good idea as boots are not worn inside huts. Hut rules also include no smoking and lights out from 10pm–6am. Charges are around €18–25 for a bed and €40–50 for half board, which means a three-course dinner, overnight stay and breakfast. Some huts are privately owned, although the majority belong to the Italian Alpine Club CAI (Club Alpino Italiano), its Trentino branch SAT (Società Alpinisti Tridentini) and the Südtirol Club AVS (Alpenverein Südtirol).

      Refuges – whether club or privately managed – are open to everyone. Members of affiliated alpine associations from other countries get discounted rates (approximately 50% off bed rates) in line with reciprocal agreements. Members of the British Mountaineering Council and Mountaineering Council of Scotland can buy a Reciprocal Rights Card from the BMC website (www.thebmc.co.uk), and it is also possible to join the UK branch of the Austrian Alpine Club (Tel [phone]; www.aacuk.org.uk) or CAI, the Italian Alpine Club (www.cai.it) – contact an individual branch directly.

      Refuge accommodation must be booked in advance on July and August weekends, preferably by phone as few have email access during the summer. ‘Vorrei prenotare un posto letto/due posti letto’ means ‘I’d like to book one/two beds’. Be aware that if you book but do not turn up, you could set in motion costly (for you!) alpine search and rescue procedures, so remember to phone and cancel if you change your plans; but do give plenty of warning for courtesy. Some establishments accept credit cards but it is best to carry a supply of euros in cash to be on the safe side. See Appendix C for listings of all the refuges visited in this guide.

      Lyfi Alm provides home-style meals and refreshments (Walk 35)

Food and drink

      A holiday in the Stelvio National Park is also a guarantee of memorable gastronomical experiences thanks to the rich culinary traditions of the Lombardia, Trentino and Südtirol regions.

      Hearty soups feature regularly on menus: minestrone with vegetables is unfailingly satisfying, as is substantial zuppa d’orzo with barley, while Gulaschsuppe, a rich tomatoey soup with chunks of beef and paprika, is another good bet. Pasta starts with pizzoccheri, a wholesome and filling dish of buckwheat pasta, cabbage and potatoes smothered with melted cheese. Gnocchi con ortiche are tiny potato and nettle dumplings, while Trentino versions are strangolapreti (priest stranglers!) incorporating spinach, and monchi made with polenta (cornmeal) and smothered with sage-flavoured butter. Do try capelazzi, over-sized ravioli stuffed with ricotta, and when in the Südtirol, if you can get your tongue around the name, seek out Kartoffelteigtaschen mit Bergkäse, pockets of fresh pasta filled with soft potato and served with melted local cheese.

      A tagliere (‘cutting board’/platter) is always a good choice for lunch or a snack, especially at a mountain farm or eatery with local dairy products, and will hold a selection of local cheeses, cold meats and sausage served with bread. In the Trentino valleys Casolet is a guarantee of a smooth, tasty cow’s cheese made using a traditional technique. Poina is a sort of ricotta (a non-lumpy version of cottage cheese), a creamy fresh spread produced with whey and either smeared on bread with miele (honey), or melted over hot polenta (cornmeal). Another version is Asni, which has garlic, salt and pepper added before being enfumegada (smoked) to keep it longer. There are plenty of cold sausages similar to salami. Valtellina is renowned for its Bresaola, dried beef flavoured with juniper berries and herbs and eaten in transparent slices. The area’s cheese production is prodigious – scumid is a sharp type and goat’s cheese (formaggio di capra) is common, both fresh as well as compact, pungent and mature. Sciatt (literally ‘toad’ in dialect) are delicious cheese-filled fritters made with grappa-flavoured batter.

      Of the vast choice of meats, spicy goulash stew and stinco or roast pork shank are dishes to look forward to.

      Kaiserschmarrn, a Südtirol speciality

      On the sweet front, in the Trentino valleys look out for carrot cakes (torta di carote) or the variously spelled torta di fregoloti, a delectable lumpy shortbread made with chopped almonds. In the Südtirol go for either Kaiserschmarrn, a concoction of sliced pancake with dried fruit and redcurrant jelly, or the ubiquitous Apfelstrudel (sliced apple enveloped in thin filo-like pastry) sold in every bakery, pastry shop and café.

      As regards liquid refreshment, homemade cordials may be on offer such as Holunder (elderflower) or even alpenrose. There is a range of high-quality wines – all reds – from the valleys surrounding the Stelvio Park: Lagrein and Blauburgunder from the Bozen basin, Teroldego and Schiava from the Trentino valleys, and fragrant Sassella and Inferno from Valtellina.

      Coffee comes in classical Italian style with short black espresso, milky frothy cappuccino or less concentrated caffé latte.

      Most villages and farms still have their age-old drinking fountains. Tap water (acqua da rubinetto) is always safe to drink (potabile means drinkable) and can be requested in cafés and restaurants instead of the bottled mineral water that causes so much unnecessary pollution as it is transported back and forth across Europe.

What to take

       Good quality waterproof boots with ankle support and non-slip soles, preferably not brand new unless you plan to protect your feet with sticking plaster. Trainers are inadequate for alpine paths.

       A comfortable medium-sized rucksack (max 20 litres capacity), large enough to contain food, drink and necessities for a full day out.

       Rain gear – a waterproof jacket, trousers and rucksack cover are ideal, or a full-length poncho; a folding umbrella is handy for walkers who wear glasses.

       Binoculars for watching birds and animals, and a camera.

       A basic first aid kit including sticking plasters.

       Maps, compass and altimeter.

       A whistle and headlamp or torch for attracting attention in emergencies.

       Sun hat, glasses and high-factor suncream; remember that for every 1000m of ascent, the intensity of the sun’s UV rays increases by 10%, and many walks in this guidebook are above the tree line.

       A range of layered clothing to cater for conditions ranging from fiery sun through to lashing rain and storms, and occasionally snow.

       Lightweight telescopic trekking poles are handy for descending steep slopes and easing the weight of a rucksack off knees and back.

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