Tour of the Queyras. Alan Castle

is wise to assume that water taken from streams and rivers is potentially unsafe to drink, particularly if there are cattle, sheep or goats in the vicinity. If in any doubt, add a water-purifying tablet to any unboiled water, allowing at least 10 minutes for the chemicals to react before drinking the water. Water labelled l’eau non potable is not suitable for drinking.

Equipment

      The most important consideration, always, is to ensure that your pack is as light as possible, without compromising your safety in the mountains. Do not take unnecessary items; nothing spoils a walking holiday more than having to endure the excessive weight of an overloaded rucksack. Those who cannot resist taking a heavy rucksack are recommended to make use of the baggage transfer service (see Baggage Transfer Service, above, and Appendix 3).

      During the summer months this region of France usually experiences fairly high temperatures during the daytime, but, at the relatively high elevations found on this Tour, it can become decidedly chilly on cloudy days and once the sun has gone down. For much of the time, shorts and a t-shirt will be fine, but warm clothing must be carried to allow for a possible deterioration in the weather, and for the evening. A waterproof and windproof jacket is essential, and waterproof trousers are recommended. A pair of thin gloves and a warm hat weigh very little, and could save discomfort or worse if the weather turns cold at altitude. Pack a pair of lightweight walking trousers, which can be worn on the occasional cool day or to protect sensitive skin against sunburn, and wear them while relaxing in the evenings.

      The glare and heat from the sun can be intense, particularly during July and August and at altitude. A sunhat, high-factor suncream, lip-salve and sunglasses will all help to avoid over-exposure to the sun. To ensure that water is readily available during the day, at least one 1-litre bottle should be carried per person. The screwcap plastic bottles in which mineral water is sold make useful additional water carriers. Some walkers prefer a hydration system with a tube and mouthpiece that provides easy access to water.

      Well-worn-in, good-quality boots with adequate ankle support are essential on this walk. Some type of lightweight footwear is also desirable for rest days, for relaxing in the evening and for sightseeing – a pair of good-quality lightweight trainers is recommended. Boots may not be worn inside gîtes d’étape or refuges and are discouraged in most hotels.

      The rucksack, the size of which will depend on whether or not camping equipment is to be carried, is probably the most important item of gear. A ‘dustbin liner’ for the rucksack and a supply of plastic bags should keep the contents dry in heavy rain. Perishable food is best kept in a plastic bag to prevent the accidental soiling of the inside of the rucksack.

      Walkers on the GR58 heading for the hamlet of Les Escoyères (Stage 2)

      A small first-aid kit is important, as there will rarely be an opportunity to buy simple medicines en route. Include plasters, antiseptic cream, safety pins, a small bandage, aspirin/paracetamol, and anti-diarrhoea tablets. Insect repellent may also be useful. The first-aid box is a good place to store a whistle, so that it can be easily located in an emergency.

      Some other miscellaneous items may also be useful. A small torch is invaluable for navigating a route across a sea of slumbering bodies in a crowded refuge. A mini French/English dictionary or phrasebook may help with communication.

      A Swiss Army knife or equivalent will provide a sharp blade for cutting (bread and salami, for example), a pair of scissors, a can opener and a corkscrew (although remember not to pack it in your hand luggage when boarding an aircraft). A tiny sewing kit will allow minor repairs to gear. A compact, lightweight pair of binoculars is a luxury item that will be greatly appreciated in this scenic mountain country, and for observing the wildlife (such as marmots and chamois). Few would contemplate the walk without taking along a camera.

      Neither an ice-axe nor crampons should be necessary in the summer months, although the possibility of freak weather covering the high passes with snow and ice can never be ruled out (and remember that in some years snow and ice can be late clearing from high passes). Outside the main summer months, an ice-axe and crampons would be essential items of equipment.

Maps

      The official mapping agency in France, the Institut Geographique National (IGN), the equivalent of Britain’s Ordnance Survey, produces the following maps, which are of use to those walking the Tour of the Queyras.

      1 IGN Carte de Randonnée 1:25 000

      Three maps are required to cover the entire route of the Tour described in this guidebook.

       Sheet 3637 OT. Mont Viso (St-Véran – Aiguilles). Parc Naturel Régional du Queyras.

       Sheet 3537 ET. Guillestre – Vars – Risoul. Parc Naturel Régional du Queyras.

       Sheet 3536 OT. Briançon – Serre-Chevalier – Montgenèvre. Only a very small part of the Tour is shown on this map.

      All the 1:25 000 IGN maps are of excellent quality and are highly recommended.

      The sheer rock face of Pic d’Asti from the summit of Le Pain de Sucre (excursion from Refuge Agnel)

      2 IGN 1:60 000

      Sheet 06. Queyras – Ubaye. This map covers the whole of the Tour du Queyras and also includes the Tour of Monte Viso.

      These maps can be bought from specialist map shops in the UK as well as local and main city outlets in France (see Appendix 3).

      Each stage in this guidebook is illustrated by a diagrammatic map of the route.

Waymarking and Navigation

      Mountain trails in Europe are generally waymarked more thoroughly than the mountain paths of Britain. Most of the footpaths used in this Tour are part of the GR network, and as such are waymarked with a system of red and white painted stripes. These occur, usually in a horizontal position with white above red, on rocks, boulders, trees, posts, fences, telegraph poles, etc. The standard of waymarking in the Queyras is generally very good, and most of the paths are distinct and easy to follow. The walker should not continue too far without seeing another red and white waymark. If a waymark is not encountered for some time, it is likely that the wrong path has been taken.

      In a few areas the waymarking is not particularly easy to follow. The section between the Col des Thures and Col du Malrif, north of Abriès on the alternative route of Stage 8, requires some care to avoid losing the waymarks. Also, the waymarking on the Italian side of the border tends at times to be inferior to that in France. In this guidebook the route description is particularly detailed in areas where there may be difficulty in following the route.

      Remember too that paint waymarking fades with time, and so a route that was once easy to follow may be less so if the waymarking has not been renewed for several years. Conversely, at the time of your visit an area that was once poorly waymarked may be much easier to navigate if the waymarking has since been refreshed.

      In the GR waymarking system various arrangements of red and white lines are used to signify different instructions. When two sets of red/white marks appear together, this signifies that a change in direction is imminent. This instruction is also sometimes indicated by the use of curved red and white markings, pointing towards the new direction to be taken. The painted cross, usually of one red and one white line, is an important one to remember – it signals that the route is not in that direction; go back to pick up the correct trail. Very occasionally a red and white mark bisected by another white line may be seen. This does not necessary mean that a mistake has been made, but rather that the route is a variant of the main GR trail.