Tour of the Queyras. Alan Castle

by a network of mountain huts (refuge in French, rifugio in Italian). The term ‘Alpine hut’ is hardly apt for these refuges, some of which are very elaborate buildings. Most of the mountain huts in the Alps are owned and operated by the Alpine Club of the country in which the hut is situated. In France this is the Club Alpin Français (CAF) and in Italy it is the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI). A few of the refuges in the Queyras (for example Furfande and Agnel) are privately owned, and several are members of an umbrella organisation, the GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), to which some gîtes d’étape also belong.

      Whereas gîtes d’étape tend to be located in villages or small towns, mountain refuges are usually (but not always) situated in isolated areas of the mountains, well away from metalled roads. They are often built to serve a particular need, such as to provide a base for climbing a particular group of mountains, or to service the needs of hill walkers on long-distance trails. The locations of Alpine refuges are marked on IGN maps.

      Discounts are available in CAF and CAI refuges to members of the various European Alpine Clubs. Probably the easiest club for British walkers to join is the Austrian Alpine Club – UK Section; membership gives reciprocal rights in all CAF and CAI huts and includes mountain rescue insurance.

      Walkers relaxing in the Refuge de Furfande (Stage 11)

      Refuges are generally substantial buildings of stone and wood with unisex dormitories, a dining room/sitting room, toilets, washroom facilities, and most these days provide hot showers. Private rooms are increasingly becoming available. All the refuges on this Tour have a resident guardian during the summer months, and it is important that a bed space is booked, immediately on arrival, with the warden.

      When the main refuge is closed (commonly from mid-September onwards), there will usually be a small unstaffed annex or ‘winter room’ (refuge d’hiver) left open permanently to provide shelter and overnight accommodation. The facilities available here will be fairly basic, and your own food and cooking equipment will be required. Some refuges re-open with full facilities in the winter months during the main skiing season.

      General Information on gîtes and refuges

      Most of these establishments offer demi-pension rates – bed, breakfast and dinner – which tends to be better value than paying for these items separately. Packed lunches are often available, usually to be booked the night before departure. Both gîtes and refuges generally provide snack, meal and bar facilities throughout the day during the main summer season.

      Walkers entering Ristolas (Stage 7 – low level)

      Blankets or duvets are nearly always provided in gîtes d’étape and in refuges. Clean sheets/duvet covers will not necessarily available, however, so some walkers may prefer to carry their own sheet sleeping bags (silk ones are the lightest).

      Most gîtes d’étape and refuges have a hut or gîte book (livre d’or) in which it is customary to record comments about one’s stay. Entries range from a simple ‘we wos here’ to elaborate pen-and-ink drawings and poetry. Spare a few minutes to look back through these entries, which are often very entertaining. (Note how many British walkers have visited recently!)

      Hotels

      Hotel rooms are available at these locations:

       Near to Montdauphin-Guillestre railway station

       Montdauphin

       Guillestre

       Saint-Crépin

       Ceillac

       Saint-Véran

       Ristolas

       Abriès

       Le Roux

       Aiguilles

       Arvieux

      Hotels in France are star-graded according to a system very similar to that used in the UK. Most of the hotels in the area covered by this guidebook carry a one- or two-star grading, which means they are usually reasonably priced, clean and comfortable. Hotels are generally cheaper in France than in Britain. You pay for the room, so there is seldom a reduction if only one person occupies it, although if walking alone always ask for this.

      Backpacking and camping

      Those intent on backpacking, carrying a tent and cooking equipment, will discover that there are limited possibilities for camping on official sites along the Tour. Wild camping is not encouraged, and certainly in some areas it is severely restricted. During planning it is strongly advisable for potential backpackers to check out current regulations governing wild camping (camping sauvage) within the boundaries of the regional park. Information about the Parc Naturel Régional du Queyras will be found on www.pnr-queyras.com.

      In addition to a small, lightweight tent, a closed-cell type of insulating mat or backpacking air-bed and a sleeping bag will be needed. If you are going to cook your own food, the most convenient type of camping stove to use in France during the summer months is one that burns gas. Remember that fuel cannot be taken on board an aircraft, and will have to be bought on arrival in France before commencing the Tour (spare gas canisters may not be available in the small village shops of the Queyras). A small cooking set and lightweight cutlery will also be required. Don’t forget a box of matches or lighter.

      It is unwise for backpackers to assume that water from sources in the Queyras is safe to drink (see Water, below). Water taken from streams and other sources should be treated before using (remember that there are many large flocks of sheep in some areas of the park, as well as wild animals – see Wildlife, below). The art of the backpacker is to leave no sign of an overnight camp. Leave no litter and take care not to pollute water sources. Particular care should be exercised with matches and stoves, as forest fires are all too common during the hot, dry summers. Do not light open fires.

Food

      At the time of writing, small supermarkets, grocers (épiceries) and/or other food shops were to be found in the following locations on the route of the Tour.

       Near to the Montdauphin-Guillestre railway station, Stage 1 and Stage 12

       Ceillac, Stage 2

       Saint-Véran, Stage 3

       Abriès, Stage 7

      There were also food shops in Guillestre and Aiguilles, both of which can be reached by detours from the standard Tour.

      Mountain peaks, including the pointed Tête de Toillies, from the Col de Saint-Véran (Stage 4)

      Shops tend to open earlier than their equivalents in the UK (usually around 7.30–8.00am) and stay open later (often up to 8.00pm), but most will close for two to three hours in the early afternoon. There are very few other possibilities for buying food along the way, although some farms may from time to time offer items such as cheese or honey for sale (but never rely on this). Also, provisions may sometimes be bought from the guardian of a gîte d’étape. It is possible to order packed lunches at many of the gîtes d’étape and refuges en route.

Water

      Water sources are found fairly frequently on this Tour, and lack of water should not prove a problem on most stages, although occasionally there are fairly long gaps where water is not obtainable: always plan ahead. There are water fountains in many villages and hamlets, and water bottles should always be filled when the opportunity arises. Temperatures during the daytime can be very high, particularly during July and August, and heat exhaustion and dehydration can develop rapidly when carrying a pack on steep mountainsides. Always make sure that