Chamonix Mountain Adventures. Hilary Sharp

life easier, faster and less arduous.

      Alpine mountaineering

      As well as regular walking equipment, glacier travel requires gear – crampons, harness, rope and associated hardware. You need to know how to travel safely on a glacier and these skills can only be learnt in practice. (See Appendix D.) If in doubt take a High Mountain Guide.

      Trail running

      The trails in Chamonix are often rocky and a slip can have bad consequences. Running shoes with a really good sole are essential. Many people use very lightweight poles for ultra-long runs. A hydration sac is better than a bottle in hot conditions as more fluid can be carried on your back, whereas a hand-held bottle can be cumbersome when running on trails.

      Mountain biking

      Sometimes you have to wonder why you bothered taking the bike …

      Again, a map is essential otherwise you can quickly get quite confused if not lost.

      Depending on the type of riding you plan to do, the bike needs to have some degree of suspension. You can rent all types of bikes in Chamonix and the shop assistants are experts in their sport. It goes without saying that a helmet is essential and you will probably want some sort of padded body armour for the wild descent rides.

      Road biking

      Besides a helmet and a water bottle you will need a windproof jacket – while the ascents can be very hot, those fast descents will soon chill your body. Gloves are also a good idea, both for protection and warmth on the descents.

      Rock climbing and bouldering

      Harness, rock boots and chalk bag are the obvious requirements for rock climbing. All the routes described in this guide (except those on the Index) are fully bolted so there’s no need for nuts and friends, just a rack of quickdraws. Rope lengths, single or double, are noted for each crag. A helmet is strongly recommended. Bouldering is the simplest of sports (just rock boots and chalk required) but a pad seems de rigueur nowadays. A good spotter is also useful.

      Via ferrata

      In addition to a harness, it is essential to have a special via ferrata lanyard – a climbing sling is not adequate as a fall onto a regular sling is likely to break your back. A helmet is essential.

      Taking your dog

      Skip, Rifugio du Bonatti 1998–2013

      Many people will come to Chamonix on a low-cost flight and therefore it’s likely Doggy will stay at home. However, now that pets can travel in Europe more easily, some people do drive to Chamonix for a long holiday and their furry friends come too.

      There are important regulations on where you can take your dog and in the Family Walks descriptions I have noted whether dogs are welcome on the trails.

      Dogs are not allowed at all in the following reserves:

       Aiguille Rouges Reserve

       Merlet Reserve

       Platé Reserve

       Carlaveyron Reserve

      They are tolerated on a lead in the Bérard Reserve and at Loriaz.

      However, you should be aware that if you take your dog and you see cattle or sheep grazing you should keep it on a lead. And if Fido is in tow, you’re far less likely to see any wildlife – not only his presence but also his odour will see to that.

      On the other hand, you can take your cat anywhere you like.

      My intrepid mountain cat, Zig

      1 WALKS

      Mont Blanc as backdrop while walking near the Refuge Bel Lachat (Hut Walks, Route 4)

      Classic Walks

      What makes a Classic Walk? It goes without saying that the views should be stunning and if possible in all directions; the terrain should be varied and interesting, hopefully with some forest but also lots of walking above the treeline; a clear objective, such as a summit; and maybe even a cafe en route or at the end for a cold beer or an ice cream while you sit back and soak up the scenery.

      There are so many walks in the Chamonix region that it’s difficult to choose. Ten of the best – or perhaps the best 10! – are included here.

      Family Walks

      Family Walks are intended to be walks that anyone and everyone can do, including small children, reluctant adolescents and people who don’t want to walk very far.

      Some are longer than others, but all offer lovely scenery and most are feasible in summertime, regardless of the weather. Routes 2 and 10 are harder than the others and should be reserved for the day when all the family are feeling super fit and the weather is perfect.

      For dog lovers, I have noted whether your beloved furry friend can go along too. Where dogs are not allowed this is usually because the area is a designated reserve of some kind. Sometimes dogs are allowed but must be kept on a lead – usually because of the presence of farm animals.

      Hiking in the Alps for all the family

      Hut Walks

      A hut makes a good objective for a walk, either to stay the night so as to climb to a high point the next day, or as a destination in itself as a good and interesting day out, usually with the added incentive of lunch and a stunning view once you reach your goal. It’s usually a bonus if you can stay the night as the evening and morning light, in good weather, give by far the best photos and ambience. Moreover, many huts are really busy in the day with the lunchtime trade, but when those people leave around mid-afternoon a wonderful calm and tranquillity settle on the high pastures and mountainsides. Of course, if you happen to hit the night when several families with screaming kids stay at the hut, you might regret your overnight reservation!

      In and around the Chamonix valley the choice of huts is vast, many of them situated in the non-glaciated moyenne montagne, with an approach walk of 1–3hr – perfect for a pre and post-lunch walk, with the added incentive that usually the return will be largely downhill.

      Choose your hut carefully and you’ll be able to take dog, child and granny, but be careful – several huts described here are in reserves where dogs are not welcome, even on a leash. It’s not usually a good idea to take your dog on an overnight stay in a hut – not only might there be a resident hut dog, or indeed hut cat, but also other people staying might not be quite so keen to share with your canine friend.

      In the summer season (early July to late August) any hut described here will be open, but outside that time it’s worth phoning ahead to check or asking at the Office de la Montagne. It would be rather disappointing to hike all the way up there and arrive gasping for a beer and tartiflette to find the little fermé sign on the firmly barred door. I have tried to give up-to-date details on facilities at the huts, but bear in mind that sometimes showers might be cold, or temporarily unavailable, rooms might be full, or the hut may have been recently refurbished and what I describe as ‘basic’ may be transformed into a luxury mountain lodge!

      Almost all the hut walks described here are there-and-back routes, the return following the outward route.

      Adventure Walks

      All walks can be adventurous on different levels – it’s always