Chamonix Mountain Adventures. Hilary Sharp

you’ll probably catch at least fleeting glimpses of alpine animals. Here’s the list of the main ones to watch out for.

       Marmots Usually heard rather than seen at first as their high-pitched warning whistle gives away their presence. Keep your eyes open on rocky slopes or grassy meadows.

      Marmot

       Chamois Often spotted early morning or late evening in the higher forests. This goat–deer hybrid has small horns that hook backwards and long legs.

       Ibex This mountain goat prefers rocky terrain and will be found high up on shaly rocky slopes. It’s a sturdy creature, often seen in groups, but if you’re lucky enough to come across an old male he’ll most likely be alone.

      Ibex are seen quite often but not always this close

       Stoats These energetic little creatures will sometimes be spotted scurrying around boulders. They look sweet but can be vicious to anyone outside of family. In winter they are white with a black tip to their tails and called ermine.

       Deer Small deer (chevreuil) are quite commonly seen in the forests, usually from behind as they make a fast getaway. Larger deer are less commonly spotted although at night they often cross the roads and care should be taken when driving around the Chamonix valley after dark. Whether you see them or not, the deer are there in the forest and their droppings are often seen. You’re most likely to encounter them at dusk.

       Foxes These are numerous in the Chamonix region but luckily haven’t yet adopted the habits of the town fox, which is seen as a pest. Foxes here live wild and so far don’t seem to be too interested in the McDustbin ready meal … long may it stay like this.

       Vipers These snakes are commonly found on hot tracks in the afternoon – there’s a fair chance of coming across one slumbering on the trail if you’re at reasonably low altitude (below 1000m). Getting bitten hurts and you’ll need medical attention, so be careful where you put your feet and don’t wear sandals when hiking.

       Butterflies On southern slopes expect to see lots of butterflies in the height of the summer. The large white Apollo is easy to spot as it flits around slowly from flower to flower.

      Apollo butterfly

       Golden eagle If you look up and see a big bird circling over Vallorcine or Chamonix, the chances are it’s a golden eagle. They have a huge wingspan – well over 2m – and so they don’t need to flap much. The immature adults have white marks on the underside of their wings, which makes for easier identification.

       Alpine chough These black birds have a yellow beak and red feet and they will almost certainly join you at some point in the mountains for a picnic. They make a characteristic cheeping sound and are usually found at frequented passes and huts.

       Bearded vulture There are a few of these around, since they have been reintroduced in the Aravis range, just down the valley. These wonderful birds have a wingspan of almost 3m and an orange underbelly. If you see one, count yourself lucky. And don’t panic – they only eat bones.

      There are lots more flowers, trees and animals to look out for, of course – this is just a very small selection. Basic flora and fauna books are available in English from the bookstores in Chamonix. Armed with these you’ll add another dimension to your walks, climbs and bike rides.

How it all started

      The first ascensionists of Mont Blanc

      The history of Chamonix is first documented in 1091, when an order of monks settled on the right bank of the Arve and the Priory was formed. No doubt people inhabited the valley for centuries before this; but living tucked away among the high mountains, cut off from the lower valleys for a good six months of the year and the rest of the time struggling to scrape some sort of existence, the inhabitants of the Chamonix valley didn’t attract any attention for many centuries.

      Traditionally the peaks and glaciers struck fear into the hearts of the locals; the source of violent storms, avalanches, mud slides, often wreathed in clouds and battered by winds, such places could only be the cursed home of dragons and evil spirits.

      The glaciers themselves gave cause for great concern in the 18th century when what is now referred to as the ‘Little Ice Age’ occurred. This caused the glaciers to increase in size at an alarming rate, pushing these frozen rivers down into the valleys where they threatened to destroy homes and farmland.

      The Mer de Glace seen from the air

      However, not everyone shared this fear of the glaciers and the destiny of Chamonix changed in 1741 when two English chaps, Wyndham and Pococke, set off from Geneva to visit Chamonix and discovered this rural mountain village, where people struggled to survive on what they could cultivate during the short summer season. Wyndham and Pococke were mesmerised and enchanted by the glaciers and having visited the Mer de Glace they left and spread the word. Soon, well-heeled visitors were flocking to Chamonix from all over Europe and it became a sought-after feature on any European Tour. By the 1770s, it is estimated that 1500 people a year were visiting Chamonix. The locals were quick to seize the opportunity and soon teams of ‘guides’ and porters were ready to lead these tourists onto the glaciers. Summit ascents soon followed, with Mont Blanc itself first climbed in 1786.

      This growth in tourism equally lead to the construction of hotels and the formation of the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix in the early 19th century. In 1860 a road was built from Geneva to Chamonix, via Sallanches. This was also the year that Chamonix became French, having previously been attached to the mountain Kingdom of Savoy.

      In 1901 the railway arrived in Chamonix, which enabled travel in winter, and by the middle of the 20th century not only did Chamonix boast a mountain railway and numerous cable cars but the town had also hosted the first Winter Olympics in 1924.

      Today, Chamonix sees its permanent population grow from around 10,000 to 60,000 in the summer season, and on a sunny summer’s day more than 200 people may stand on the summit of Mont Blanc.

Mountain adventures

      The valley base itself provides the full range of activities at a lower level. Whatever activity you decide on, it will be done against a jaw-dropping backdrop of glaciated peaks, soaring rocky spires, and deep rivers and gorges.

      Walks

      The beautiful Tré-les-Eaux valley (Adventure Walks, Route 5)

      First and foremost, Chamonix is a region where people walk in the hills and it makes sense that this guide features lots of walks. Any walk can be an adventure, a discovery of a new path, a surprising view, a summit or a hamlet. One person’s stroll is another person’s challenge, so the walks are divided into different categories:

      Classic Walks

      These are the walks people come to Chamonix to do, the real classics, although obviously the choice is somewhat subjective. They vary in length but they almost all require hiking fitness and, apart from one hike, they involve significant ascent.

      Family Walks

      These are walks that can be done by most people, committed hikers or not. Children, dogs, the elderly – everyone can come along. However, check the details for each walk – there are some places where dogs have to be kept on a lead or not even taken at all. These walks all take you