Walking in Scotland's Far North. Andy Walmsley

parts, and in particularly bad weather it may be impossible to access anything beyond the main trunk routes.

      Access to individual peaks is covered in the relevant route description in the walks section of the guide, but below is a brief description of each of the main access routes.

      The view south from Achiltibuie

      A835 from Ullapool to Ledmore

      17 miles (27km)

      Winter access: usually kept open

      An excellent two-lane trunk road giving good views of the Coigach peaks (especially the jutting prow of Sgurr an Fhidhleir). Long straights and easy bends mean fast progress. Knockanrock viewpoint and information centre at GR188090.

      From Drumrunie (GR165054) to Achiltibuie

      - with branches to Reiff and Achnahaird

      15 miles (24km) excluding branches

      Winter access: doubtful under snow

      Unclassified single-track road, but easy. Passes the bases of Cul Beag and Stac Pollaidh (also passing the turning to Lochinver – see below), then descends to a junction at the south end of Achnahaird Bay. Right leads to the Achnahaird campsite and Rubha Mor (Rubha Coigeach); left leads south to Achiltibuie. A short branch road leads norh-west to Reiff, also linking with the Achnahaird road.

      From Badnagyle (GR063113) to Lochinver

      - ‘The Mad Little Road of Sutherland’, 11 miles (18km)

      Winter access: best avoided in winter conditions

      Unclassified single-track road. Starts easily, but becomes extremely tortuous. Gives spectacular glimpses of the Inverpolly peaks and Suilven as it traverses the lumpy moor west of Loch Sionascaig.

      After wriggling around an inlet of Enard Bay, the road cuts across Rubha na Breige to the River Kirkaig (start of path to Falls of Kirkaig and Suilven, café and bookstore) and shortly enters Inverkirkaig (self-catering accommodation, telephone). A further climb takes the road over to Lochinver.

      A837 from Invershin (GR574966) to Ledmore

      26 miles (42km)

      Winter access: rarely closed

      Single-track trunk road. This is the main access from the east to Assynt and Coigach, so is usually kept open even in snowy weather. There are a few very short two-lane stretches, but these are best regarded as extended passing places. The road begins in rural semi-wooded terrain, then climbs gradually into open moorland. Good view of Suilven ahead as Ledmore is approached.

      A837 from Ledmore (GR248124) to Lochinver

      19 miles (30km)

      Winter access: kept open in all but the most severe blizzards

      Two-lane trunk road. After joining with the A835 at the Ledmore junction, the A837 becomes an excellent two-lane road. The road crosses the Kirkaig/Inver watershed then descends to Inchnadamph (private lodge and hotel with petrol pump, expensive). After passing the turning to Kylesku at Skiag Bridge, the road skirts along the shore of Loch Assynt to Lochinver.

      B869 Assynt Coast Road, GR099235 (near Lochinver) to GR232314 (near Kylesku)

      21 miles (34km)

      Winter access: impassable under snow

      This unclassified single-track road is considerably ‘madder’ than the ‘Mad Little Road of Sutherland’ (see above), with numerous climbs, descents and blind brows. The first section is enclosed and wooded, passing the branch to Achmelvich (youth hostel and campsite) before climbing into open country (excellent viewpoint on the left at GR078254). After passing the bleak campsite and small sandy beaches of Clachtoll and Stoer, the road swings inland to cross the neck of the Stoer headland to Clashnessie (branch road on the left leads to the Stoer lighthouse).

      Beyond Clashnessie (sandy bay, ugly static caravans) the road crosses more moorland to reach Drumbeg (parking, toilets, hotel) in an elevated position overlooking Oldany Island, then descends to Nedd by the shore of the charming Loch Nedd, heavily screened by trees.

      From here to the main road near Kylesku is the most demanding section. The road heads east to the A894 via an arduous series of ups and downs (the descent into, and climb out of, Gleann Ardbhair being particularly untamed), with glimpses of Quinag's impressive northern buttresses on the right.

      A894 from Skiag Bridge to Laxford Bridge

      23 miles (37km)

      Winter access: usually kept open

      Two-lane trunk road. The initial section, over the pass between Quinag and Glasven, has some tight and bumpy bends, but after Kylesku Bridge the road smoothes out and makes easy progress to Scourie (campsite, restaurant, hotel, post office, toilets). Continuing easily, the road passes a turning on the left to Foindle, Fanagmore and Tarbet (Handa Island ferry) before arriving at Laxford Bridge (no facilities).

      Arkle and Loch Stack

      A838 from Colabol junction (GR573099) to Laxford Bridge

      34 miles (55km)

      Winter access: usually kept open

      Single-track A-road. Just north of Lairg on the road heading for Altnaharra and Tongue (A836), a left turn near the small group of buildings called Colaboll takes you onto the A838 to Laxford Bridge.

      The A838 actually continues beyond Laxford Bridge to Tongue (description below), but a traveller between Lairg and Tongue would use the more direct A836.

      Although single track, this road is open and quite straight, giving easy passage. The 17-mile (27km) shore of Loch Shin leads to a gentle ascent to the Loch More watershed, passing Loch Merkland and West Merkland (start of Ben Hee ascent) en route.

      From the watershed (start of Beinn Leoid ascent) the road descends easily to skirt the southern shore of Loch More, with tremendous views of Ben Stack and Arkle ahead.

      Beyond Achfary (routes to Arkle, Fionaven and the Sabhals), the road skirts along between Ben Stack and Loch Stack to eventually meet the two-lane A894 at Laxford Bridge.

      Loch Eribol

      A838 continuation, Laxford Bridge to Tongue

      48 miles (77km)

      Winter access: can be closed north of Rhiconich in severe weather

      A mixture of two-lane and single-track A-road. Turning right at Laxford Bridge (the Scourie-Rhiconich road has priority) the A838 continues as a single-track road for about 300m then joins a smooth two-lane highway, like the A894, which then swoops its way to Rhiconich (hotel, petrol). A branch road (B801) runs out to Kinlochbervie from here, continuing as a single-track minor road as far as Sheigra, with a further branch to Oldshoremore. Sheigra is the closest approach by road to Cape Wrath, and the path to Sandwood Bay begins near here at Balshrick (campsite nearby).

      North of Rhiconich, the A838 becomes single track and climbs up to Gualin House, with Foinaven towering to the right. Various small parking places along here provide starting points for Foinaven. Gualin House is now bypassed on its north-west side by a short new section of two-lane road, but single track takes over again as the road descends past Carbreck (start of Cranstackie ascent) to Kyle of Durness.

      Just before Durness two-lane road reappears (at the junction with the short branch to the Cape Wrath Hotel and ferry) and this leads into the village itself. From Durness (hotels, 40-bed youth hostel, campsite, toilets, shop, tourist information) another short branch road leads out to the Balnakeil sand dunes, passing the interesting Balnakeil Craft Village en route.

      The main road continues along the north coast (past Smoo Cave and