Walking in Scotland's Far North. Andy Walmsley

has a good number of self-catering cottages for hire.

      The nearest campsite is at Achmelvich, 3 miles (5km) north by Loch Roe. This is a good, reasonably priced, fairly well-equipped site (open March to September) close to the excellent sandy beach of Achmelvich Bay. There is also a youth hostel (38 beds – open March to September) here.

      Stoer

      Situated on the picturesque coast road between Lochinver and Kylesku, Stoer is merely a tiny crofting community with a small sandy beach (pleasant in good weather, but usually just bleak) and a post office with limited opening hours. Nearby is the rather basic campsite at Clachtoll (which has an attractive sandy cove). The scenery at Stoer is defaced by ramshackle mobile homes, which are common in the area.

      Drumbeg

      A slightly larger community than Stoer and rather more attractive, Drumbeg is situated further north along the same road. Its location is elevated, overlooking the rocky shore of Eddrachillis Bay and Oldany Island. There is a parking area with toilets, and a view indicator looking out across the bay with its multiple islands – a picturesque scene in good weather. There is also an hotel and a post office here.

      Kylesku

      Once an important staging post on the route north, the village of Kylesku is now much quieter. A new bridge (an elegant one, it must be said) means that the village is now bypassed by the A894, which sweeps effortlessly over the narrow Caolas Cumhang and Garbh Eilean to reach the Duartmore Forest. The name Caolas Cumhang means ‘the narrow straight’, and it is from a corruption of this name that the anglicised form, Kylesku, is derived.

      Kylesku has its own inn, and boat trips are run from the village up the fjord-like Loch Glencoul to visit the Eas a Chual Aluinn waterfall – Britain's highest at 658ft.

      There is also a good choice of accommodation in the vicinity, and this area makes a good base for both the Assynt peaks and also those of the Reay Forest, further north.

      Brora

      An east coast village, somewhat larger than those above, Brora has most amenities, including campsites, hotels, etc. Its location is rather inconvenient for the main mountains of the far north, but it does have the advantage of being served by the railway.

      Helmsdale

      Like Brora, Helmsdale is located on the east coast, is serviced by rail, and has a youth hostel and a tourist information office, as well as shops, hotels, etc. It is reasonably convenient for the eastern peaks such as Morven, and could also serve as a base for peaks such as Ben Klibreck if motorised transport is available.

      About halfway between Brora and Helmsdale is a campsite (Crakaig Camping – GR960097). The site is basic and low priced, and is in an attractive setting by the beach at Lothbeg Point.

      Scourie

      This is a pleasant crofting village built in a natural bowl among low rocky hills and overlooking the sheltered Scourie Bay. There is a friendly hotel, expensive filling station, well-stocked provisions store/post office, and a number of self-catering cottages nearby. Scourie also has the best campsite in the far north. Reasonably priced, the site is clean and well laid out with terraced pitches overlooking the sea, and has a relaxed atmosphere. Free hot showers are available, along with a laundry room, a restaurant, and an affable owner who will allow dogs, provided they are exercised off the site (open from Easter to end of September – occasionally at other times if there is demand).

      A boat runs (weather permitting) from the pier to the Handa Island Bird Sanctuary.

      Scourie is a convenient base for the Reay Forest and the far north-west.

      Rhiconich

      Little more than a hotel with a few surrounding crofts and cottages, Rhiconich is the last outpost on the road to the north coast, and marks the junction with the branch road out to Kinlochbervie and Shiegra.

      The hotel would make a good base for ascents of Arkle or Foinaven.

      Dunbeath

      This is a small, scattered village, located on the east coast in the far north-eastern corner of the guide area. Dunbeath has a camp site and a hotel, and is a convenient base for the exploration of the Morven group of hills.

      Kinlochbervie

      This is a major fishing port on the north-west coast, comparable to Ullapool in importance. Kinlochbervie is situated on a narrow neck of land between two sheltered bays – an ideal location for a port. It has a lonelier atmosphere than Ullapool, but does offer a range of accommodation and is conveniently situated in relation to the great peaks of Foinaven and Arkle.

      Nearby is a lovely beach at Oldshoremore (campsites here and at Balshrick) and the start of the path to Sandwood Bay, one of the jewels of the coast.

      Durness

      Bleakly exposed atop rugged sea cliffs, Durness is at the northernmost point of the A838 road. The village itself consists only of a few scattered houses and a couple of shops, but in the vicinity are a number of attractions including a good campsite, a youth hostel, some spectacular beaches, the celebrated Cave of Smoo (with hotel) and the Balnakeil Craft Village. The latter is housed in converted old army buildings, which are numerous hereabouts.

      Tongue

      Tongue is an unremarkable village, clustered around a sharp road bend near the junction of the A838 and A836. It has two hotels, a youth hostel (on the shore of the Kyle of Tongue), a very small campsite and a post office.

      The Kyle of Tongue Crossing (more of a causeway than a bridge) has bypassed the former road, which took a circuitous route around the southern shore of the Kyle. However, the old road is still worth driving for its superb views of Ben Loyal.

      Tongue makes a convenient base for Ben Loyal, Ben Hope, Ben Stumanadh and Ben Klibreck.

Getting There

      Although situated in the farthest corner of the British mainland, the far north is not as difficult to reach as might be imagined. Excellent road links make Ullapool (for example) as accessible as many popular Scottish locations further south. For the southern Sassenach, the journey to Skye or Torridon can take just as long as that to the far north.

      The A9, although not the most scenic of Scottish roads, makes for easy travel to Inverness, and links to Lairg, Helmsdale or Ullapool from there are excellent. For those who cannot face the drive, there are internal flights available to Inverness and Wick, or you could even let the train take the strain – the line meanders all the way up to Wick via Lairg, Helmsdale and Forsinard.

      Once you are much north of Inverness, Royal Mail post buses provide the main system of public transport. These run regularly between all post offices in the far north, and a timetable is available from the Royal Mail on request. Note that, despite the name, you should not expect these post buses to actually be ‘buses’. You are just as likely to find yourself travelling in a small van or estate car as in a purpose-built bus.

      Summer Isles ferry

Roads within the Area

      With the notable exception of the Parph and Cape Wrath, road access within in the area is very good, but not too good. You are never far from a road in this area, and all the peaks are fairly easily accessible, but there are a number of places where it is possible to get away from the car-borne tourist and feel the ‘wilderness experience’. The inner reaches of Glen Dubh and Glen Coul (east of Kylesku), and the middle of the Inverpolly Forest (west of Cul Mor), spring immediately to mind.

      Although the road network is quite comprehensive, many of the roads are single track, and outside the months of June, July and August they see little traffic. In early spring or in autumn it is possible to drive for miles along these roads without seeing a single vehicle. This is quite a contrast to areas south of Inverness, and it is one of the great charms of the far north.

      If a winter trip is planned, it is worth remembering that road closures due to snow