Walking in the Bernese Oberland. Kev Reynolds

resume on a footpath at the first bend.

      The alp of Hinderarni is visited on the high trail to Meiringen

      Hasliberg-Reuti is expanding from a small village into a sunny resort 400m above the Haslital. Linked by cablecar with Meiringen, another cable lift extends to Bidmi and Mägisalp, where a gondola continues up to Planplatten at 2245m for some fine walks options. Accommodation can be had at Hotel Reuti (beds & dorm places, Tel [phone]), Hotel Viktoria (beds & dorm places, (Tel [phone]) and Pension Alpenblick (B&B Tel [phone]).

      On reaching the solitary farm of Underbalm (1551m) you can refill water bottles from a spring-fed pipe. The way leads on to Hinderarni (1459m; 2hrs 10mins) and another dirt road. To the east big snow peaks crowd the horizon above the unseen Susten Pass. The way now curves to the right above the Haslital, through patches of forest and out between pastures again. Losing height wander past a few farms and chalets and come to Reuti (1061m accommodation, refreshments) about 1¼hrs from Hinderarni.

      At the entrance to Reuti signposts direct the continuing path across pastures, then into forest where the route becomes steep on the sharp descent to Meiringen which it reaches not far from the cablecar station about 1hr from Reuti.

ROUTE 3

      Engstlenalp (1834m) – Tannenalp (1974m) – Melchsee-Frutt (1902m)

Start	Engstlenalp (1834m)
Distance	7km (one way)
Height gain	140m
Height loss	72m
Grade	1–2
Time	1½–2hrs
Location	West of Engstlenalp
Accommodation	There’s no shortage of accommodation, including dormitory beds, although some of the hotels are at the upper end of the price scale. For current details visit www.melchsee-frutt.ch.

      This popular walk is not too demanding, but visually delightful. It begins by using the initial section of Route 2, then crosses the northwestern wall of the Gental to enter a high, gently sloping pastureland that leads down to the small resort of Melchsee-Frutt. Down there the valley has patches of limestone pavement and a rich alpine flora. There are two lakes in the pastureland, and the small alp village of Tannenalp. A choice of routes will return you to Engstlenalp.

      From Hotel Engstlenalp wander along the path round the western edge of the alp, then veer westward on a clear trail (as for Route 2) which soon takes you across a stream below a cascade. Soon after this the path forks and you take the right branch rising steadily southwestward now with views along the Gental. On a rising traverse below cliffs that wall the valley, the path brings you above them onto a grassy crest with fine views, and over this to descend slightly towards Tannenalp after about 1hr. Refreshments can be had here.

      The Wetterhorn can be seen quite clearly from Engstlenalp

      From Tannenalp bear left along a narrow road, and on coming to the Tannensee, pass round either side of the lake; path to the left, roadway to the right. Continue downvalley, so to reach Melchsee-Frutt where there’s accommodation, refreshments and shops. The lakes of Tannensee and Melchsee lie in the geographical heart of Switzerland, and the pastoral basin in which they are set is very popular with walkers.

      To return to Engstlenalp either reverse your outward route (2hrs), or head south from the lake at Melchsee and climb up to Balmeregghorn (2255m) following the line of a cableway. Once on the ridge between the Gental and Melchsee bear left and follow the ridgepath to Tannensee, where you can re-join the outward route back to Engstlenalp.

      Other routes from Engstlenalp

       One of the classic walks from here is along the path to the Joch Pass (2207m) in about 1hr 10mins. It is a busy path and somewhat devalued by the close proximity of the chairlift. That being said, it is still a fine walk, with the possibility of extending it all the way to Engelberg – a walk of about 4hrs from Engstlenalp.

       Another good route, somewhat strenuous but rewarding, is that which crosses the ridge of the Tällistock – the mountain wall dividing the Gental from the Gadmental – and descends to the village of Gadmen on the far side. This is a walk of a little over 5hrs, with the option of breaking it with an overnight stay in the Tälli Hut.

       A Grade 3 extension to Route 3 leads across the Balmeregghorn to Planplatten and Meiringen in 6½hrs. From Engstlenalp to Tannenalp the route is the same as in Route 3, but thereafter the ridge dividing the two valleys is gained and followed southwestward across the slopes of Ezegg, then over the Balmeregghorn to Planplatten (2245m) where you have a choice of continuing routes to Meiringen. One option involves taking the Eagle Express gondola to Mägisalp and down to Meiringen.

ROUTE 4

      Innertkirchen (625m) – Urbachtal – Gauli Hut (2205m)

Start	Innertkirchen (625m)
Distance	13km (one way)
Height gain	1580m
Grade	3
Time	6hrs
Location	South of Innertkirchen

      Cutting into the mountains south of Innertkirchen, the Urbachtal is an uninhabited pastoral valley rising here and there in gorge-like narrows between high walls of rock. Its western wall is a stupendous flank of limestone – the Engelhörner – which divides the Urbachtal from that of Rosenlaui. This strenuous walk goes all the way through the valley to its inner recesses below the Gauligletscher which, with other icefields, forms a glacial cirque containing the valley’s headwall. Set upon a remote alp the Gauli Hut commands fine views of the Ewigschneehorn and Hienderstock.

      From Innertkirchen follow the narrow road which cuts away to the south of the Aare river to Grund, and then climbs in a long series of hairpins among forest, eventually levelling above a rocky cleft to enter the Urbachtal. There are footpath short-cuts in places. The road then crosses the Urbachwasser and heads into the valley proper after about 1hr 20mins.

      On the trail to the Gauli Hut, great slab walls flank the Urbachtal

      Continue along the road heading southwest, passing a string of farmhouses and haybarns dotted on either side among the meadows. The vast Engelhörner wall on the right is streaked with slender waterfalls and the whole scene is reminiscent of parts of Norway. High above, at the head of the valley, modest glaciers and snowfields may be seen draped from the Hangendgletscherhorn.

      The road ends and becomes a stony track that winds upvalley, passes the little hut of Röhrmatten (seen to the left) and continues as a footpath. Ahead the valley narrows almost to gorge-like proportions and is heavily wooded. The path takes you up into the woods, gaining height steeply in places, then rounds a bend below a solitary cabin at 1364m and eases across a steep gully with a stream pouring through it. (Early in the season this gully may be choked with snow; in which case you