Walking in the Bernese Oberland. Kev Reynolds

from it.

      The Lauteraar Rothorner directs the way to the Lauteraar Hut

      In the upper Haslital, GUTTANNEN (1057m) has the family-run Hotel Bären (Tel [phone] www.baeren-guttannen.ch); there’s also Hotel Handeck with 67 beds further towards the Grimsel Pass (Tel [phone] www.grimselhotels.ch), and at the pass itself the Grimsel Hospiz, set above the dam, has 64 beds (Tel [phone] www.grimselhotels.ch).

      Southwest of Meiringen, on the way to the Grosse Scheidegg, several hotels, inns and gasthofs in the Reichenbachtal offer accommodation in gentle surroundings. Details are given in the text where walks lead to or past them.

      MOUNTAIN HUTS

      Although there are several mountain huts in the district covered by this chapter, only two are visited on walks described.

      LAUTERAAR HUT (2392m) This SAC hut is located above a confluence of glaciers in wonderfully wild country west of the Grimsel Pass. With places for 40 and a resident guardian in July and September (meals provided) it’s reached in about 4–4½hrs from the Grimsel Hospice. (Tel [phone] www.lauteraarhuette.ch).

      GAULI HUT (2205m) Near the head of the Urbachtal, this 65-place hut is owned by the Bern Section of the SAC, and has a resident guardian from April to early October (Tel [phone] www.gauli.ch).

ROUTE 1

      Engstlenalp (1834m) – Schwarzental (1369m)

Start	Engstlenalp (1834m)
Distance	5km
Height loss	465m
Grade	1
Time	1–1½hrs
Location	Northeast of Innertkirchen

      Engstlenalp lies at the head of the lovely Gental, in a location reckoned by Professor John Tyndall, the scientific Irishman and a Vice-President of the Alpine Club, as ‘one of the most charming spots in the Alps.’ What he wrote in 1866 is still true today. There’s a Victorian hotel, gentle pastures, a clutch of timber chalets and barns, and the clear blue-green Engstlensee walled to the south by a huge mass of slabs topped by a ridge linking the Mähren and Wendenstöcke which continues over the Reissend Nollen to the summit of the Titlis. Cattle graze along the shores of the lake, and much of the area is a designated nature reserve. A track goes to the lake from the hotel and car park, and when it narrows, a path rises to the Joch Pass (2207m), and over to Engelberg. There’s also a chairlift to the pass from the eastern end of the lake. (See Central Switzerland, a walking guide in the same series as the present book, for additional routes.)

      Southwest of Engstlenalp runs the long, deep valley of the Gental – forested here and there, but with open meadows and tiny hamlets lining the narrow road that climbs through it. As you gaze along the valley, eyes are drawn to the big mountains of the Oberland where the Wetterhorn presents an unmistakable profile.

      Postbuses go as far as Engstlenalp from Meiringen and Innertkirchen, and the car park there is often very busy in summer. From the alp there are three ways back to the Haslital; the particular route which follows is the shortest and easiest, but has some spectacular landscape features to enjoy.

      From Hotel Engstlenalp cross the approach road and join a path which descends ahead among trees, keeping left of a stream which soon cuts a channel below. It’s an easy path to follow, in and out of woods with wild fruits in season and plenty of wild flowers too. There are open glades and rough pastures to cross, and at Point 1535m (on the map) you pass a tiny huddle of alp huts. The path continues without difficulty, crossing the occasional side stream and with the woods thinning to give more open views into the valley stretching ahead as it falls away in natural terraces, or steps, of pastureland.

      Near the huts of Under Graben (1468m) by a large old sycamore tree, you have a superb view of a number of cascades showering from limestone cliffs ahead and to the left. It’s a lovely sight, but it becomes even better as you pass below them.

      Cascades shower from limestone cliffs in the Gental

      The path swings to the right, then resumes its former direction to take you beneath the waterfalls, crossing their drainage stream by way of a footbridge. Shortly after this you cross the valley to the hamlet of Schwarzental (accommodation, refreshments) from which point you can catch a postbus down to Innertkirchen or Meiringen.

      Restaurant Schwarzental is a converted dairy built in 1799. As well as meals and refreshments, accommodation is available with 18–20 dormitory places (Tel [phone] or 033 971 48 31 www.schwarzental.ch).

      Should you wish to walk all the way to Meiringen, follow the road until it forks just beyond a small settlement reservoir. Take the right fork for about 10mins, then bear left on a minor road which soon becomes a track. At a left-hand hairpin break ahead beside a solitary farmhouse into mixed woodland. Waymarked paths then continue, and eventually lead down to Meiringen, about 4hrs after leaving Engstlenalp.

ROUTE 2

      Engstlenalp (1834m) – Hinderarni (1459m) – Reuti (1061m) – Meiringen (595m)

Start	Engstlenalp (1834m)
Distance	16km
Height gain	87m
Height loss	1239m
Grade	3
Time	4½–5hrs
Location	Northeast of Innertkirchen

      This is a high-level route that follows a belvedere course along a hillside above the Gental, and is used on the classic Alpine Pass Route. There’s nothing particularly difficult about the walk, save for its length, and it is the distance, rather than severity, that rates it Grade 3. All along the high path there are fine views to enjoy. There are features in the valley below to study from a distance, and the all-absorbing scene ahead of Oberland peaks growing larger and more prominent by the minute. By the time you reach Hasliberg-Reuti, you will have a fresh respect for this stunning landscape. From Reuti there is a steep descent through forest to Meiringen, although there is the option of cablecar for those who prefer it.

      With no refreshment possibilities between Engstlenalp and Reuti (other than fresh water at Underbalm), make sure to fill water bottles before setting out, and carry a packed lunch.

      Facing the Gental with your back to Hotel Engstlenalp, take the path heading to the right (northwest) signed to Hasliberg and Melchsee which leads past the haybarns and farm buildings, then swings westward over a stream. When it forks ignore the upper branch which leads to the Tannensee and Melchsee-Frutt, but continue ahead on a lovely balcony path. This is a delight of long views to the Wetterhorn, of wild flowers and shrubs. It’s not a well-walked path, so there is a good chance you will be able to enjoy a certain amount of solitude. In places narrow and a little exposed (though never dangerously so), in 1hr from Engstlenalp the path brings you to the handful of buildings of Baumgarten (1702m), which has a narrow farm road leading down to the valley.