The GR11 Trail. Brian Johnson

reach a track going off diagonally left (438m) just after large parking areas on either side of the road. The GR11 forks left (S) down the track. Gradually descend, forking left and veering sharp right at a junction. The rocky peak ahead is Risco de San Antón (596m). The good track switchbacks down, reaching a clear-looking woodland stream at the final switchback. Continue down the track until you cross a cattle grid and come out at a small road. Turn right, uphill, to reach the W end of the Embalse de San Antón (Endara) dam (5hr 40min, 240m, N43°16.624 W001°46.494). Turn left across the dam and continue along the road to pass the Ermita de St. Antón, on your right (5hr 50min). This chapel has a water-point and a covered seating area.

      Turn left up a concrete track signed to the Bar-restaurante Ola-Berri, just after the chapel. Before you reach the bar, the GR11 turns right over a stile and up a path across pasture, then forks left as you enter the wood and climbs steeply to reach a concrete track at the Collado de Tellería (Collado de San Antón) (6hr 20min, 415m, N43°16.446 W001°45.513). You may prefer to stay on the concrete track left of the Bar-restaurante Ola-Berri, then switchback right and follow the track to the Collado de Tellería.

      Continue E along the concrete track, descending past a farm and climbing again. Keep straight on at crossroads and fork right at some houses. Fork right up a track then left along the main track and left again. Turn left and right at a woodland stream and then join a concrete track at a farm with a water-point in the farmyard. Fork right and then left along a path which joins a track. Soon fork right as the track becomes a path. Cross a concrete track at Alasta (357m) and follow the track along the crest of the ridge. Dry camping. Fork left after a white building at Amargunko Lepoa and contour to the next saddle, Amargaga Lepoa (7hr 30min, 304m). Take the middle track, then fork left, then right, then left again to start the descent to Bera. Follow the main track down to reach a minor road on the outskirts of Bera. Keep straight on at a crossroads before veering right to an old narrow bridge across the Rio Bidasoa.

      Memorial plaque on bridge at Bera

      There is a memorial plaque on the bridge to the men of the Rifle Brigade who died on 1 September 1813 defending the bridge against the French. During their retreat following defeat at the Battle of San Martzial, the French army reached San Miguel Bridge over the Rio Bidasoa at Bera. The river was in flood following a severe thunderstorm and the bridge was the only crossing point. The bridge was defended by a 70-man company of green-jacketed riflemen (well known to readers of the Sharpe novels by Bernard Cornwell or viewers of the TV films starring Sean Bean) under Captain Daniel Cadoux. This small company held the bridge against about 10,000 French troops for about 18 hours. Unfortunately, they were let down by Major General Skerret who refused to send help, despite being camped only a mile away with his Light Brigade. When the Rifle Brigade eventually retreated they suffered heavy casualties and the French were allowed to escape from the trap.

      Cross the bridge and follow the road into town, turning left along the main road to the town centre. Turn right at the Bar-restaurante Euskalduna and continue to the square, now a big car park, just after the tourist office (8hr 30min, 40m, N43°16.844 W001°40.928).

      Bera is a small town with a tourist office (public toilets inside), a selection of accommodation and an excellent supermarket. Ferreteria Monola stocks ‘original’ and ‘easy-clic’ camping gas.

      Facilities on Stage 1 (in route order)

      Camping Jaizkibel: tel [phone] www.campingjaizkibel.com

      Albergue Juan Sebastián Elcano: tel [phone] www.gipuzkoangazte.eus

      Irún Tourist Office: tel [phone] www.irun.org/turismo

      Bera Tourist Office: tel [phone]

      Hostal Zalain: tel [phone] https://zalain.info

      Hotel Churrut: tel [phone] www.hotelchurrut.com

      Casa Rural Romano: tel [phone]

STAGE 2

      Bera to Elizondo

Start	Bera
Distance	31km
Total Ascent	1300m
Total Descent	1200m
Difficulty	Easy. Waymarking is good.
Time	8hr
High Point	Santa Bárbara (396m), Collado Achuela (795m)

      Today’s walking is primarily on tracks through woodland and pasture, over steep rolling hills. This is a long day so early in a hike, but there is no obvious way to shorten it for those who are not camping.

      

      Head S from the GR11 information board along the right-hand side of the square and up a concrete track which passes to the right of a tennis court and public swimming pool before joining a tarmac road. Continue to a junction on a bend with a probably dry water-point. Fork right up a track, then left and left again past a house and onto a concrete track, before forking right up a track. Rejoin the track and follow it to the final house. Take the left-hand track, still climbing, then go sharp left at a track junction onto open hillside. Fork right up the ridge to the summit of Santa Bárbara (1hr 5min, 396m, N43°15.955 W001°40.310). On the summit you will find a concrete bunker and a collection of monuments and memorials. The high mountain to the N is La Rhune (900m) in France.

      In 1939 Franco ordered the Pyrenean border to be fortified and militarised. The plan was to build more than 10,000 bunkers from one end of the Pyrenees to another. Initially, the reason for the fortifications was to prevent the return of the Republicans, but plans were modified to thwart a possible German invasion and finally to prevent intervention by the Allies or the Maquis (French resistance movement). Construction continued until 1952, long after there was any justification for the defences. You will see the remains of this defence line at intervals along the GR11.

      Veer left along the edge of the wood, descending to a saddle and straight on up the other side. At the end of the wood descend through fields, picking up a concrete track to the right of a white house to reach the Collado de Idoia (1hr 30min, 269m).

      Turn diagonally right along a dirt road, forking left uphill. Higher up, fork right along a track, turn left at a junction by a barn, Dornakuko Borda, and fork right when you return to the dirt road by another barn. The road veers right as you reach the woods. Contour along the SW slopes of Ibantelli (697m) and cross a woodland stream. It would be wise to treat the water before drinking. Continue to the Venta de Lizaieta at Collado de Lizarrieta (2hr 25min, 441m, N43°15.661 W001°37.157). This bar-restaurant was closed in 2017.

      Cross the road and continue up a large track. After about 10min, at a saddle, a track joins from back right. The GR11 takes the path forking right and switchbacks down past Usategi bar-restaurant (normally closed)before forking left and climbing past a barn with possibly dry water-point. Fork left to cross a ridge and then descend a little on the other side. The path then contours and passes another barn before reaching a junction just below the Col de Narbarlatz (3hr 10min, 445m, N43°15.170 W001°36.027). Fork right and follow the track downhill. Fork right and descend to a woodland stream. Cross and veer right. Pass below the Casería