The GR11 Trail. Brian Johnson

right up the track, and right again to the right of two more hunters’ cabins to pick up a path heading NW, before swinging SW. Pay careful attention to the waymarks in this area as there are many sheep tracks, which are often more significant than the GR11. Climb out of the woods and steeply up to a col below Argintzo (1208m). Cross the fence at a stile (4hr 30min, 1139m, N43°03.613 W001°29.089) and veer right, to the left of the fence. Follow waymarks along faint animal tracks round the SE flank of Argintzo to rejoin the ridge and fence, at a saddle (4hr 45min, 1158m).

      The GR11 now contours on the eastern slopes below Collado Bustalmorro and Arsal, but in good weather you may prefer to follow the ridge over Arsal (1233m) before reaching broad, grassy Collado de Zagua with signpost (5hr 10 min, 1163m, N43°02.464 W001°29.596).

      Sheep shearing below Collado de Zagua

      The GR12 continues along the ridge, but turn left on the GR11, veering right of a white cabin. Take care to follow the waymarks to locate the path through the woods. Pass a cabin where you pick up a track which is followed, ignoring all side-turns, to the N-138 road at Puerto de Urkiago (5hr 40min, 912m, N43°02.158 W001°28.209).

      This minor road connects Aldudes in France to Zubiri in Spain. There is little traffic on this cross-border road so it could be difficult to hitch the 20km down (S) to Zubiri, on the Camino de Santiago, where there is accommodation. While it would be possible to camp here, there aren’t any good sites. In an emergency you could use one of the old wartime concrete bunkers on the route ahead.

      Hostal Arrobi Borda, which is just up the NA-1740, about 6km down the NA-138, has accommodation and a bar-restaurant, and offers free lifts to and from the GR11 from the Puerto de Urkiago for those staying at the hostal.

      Facilities on Stage 3

      Hostal Arrobi Borda: tel [phone] www.arrobiborda.com

      Hosteria de Zubiri: tel [phone] www.hosteriadezubiri.com

STAGE 4

      Puerto de Urkiaga to Burguete (Auritz)