Walking on the Isle of Man. Terry Marsh

this book, which settles for the much more prosaic division based on the trans-island A1 road. Traditionally, Northside has included the ‘sheadings’ (districts) of Glenfaba, Michael and Ayre, while Southside embraced Garff, Middle and Rushen sheadings. Changes in 1796 modified the original pattern by making Northside include Michael, Ayre and Garff, and Southside, Glenfaba, Rushen and Middle – a more geographically accurate division.

History and culture

      The earliest evidence for man’s settlement on the island comes from the Mesolithic period, a time when, quite probably, the island still formed part of the British ‘mainland’. By Neolithic times (about 6000–4500 years ago), Man was an island, and its people lived around the coastal plains in areas that were covered by predominantly oak woodlands.

      During the Bronze Age (about 4000 years ago), trade in gold ornaments and bronze artefacts extended across Europe, and the Isle of Man clearly played a part in this trade. Towards the end of this period, the climate changed noticeably and for a while the development of the island slowed down, only regaining momentum with the development of Christianity. This was a time when the Romans populated much of Britain, though they never occupied Man, in spite of the probability that they must have passed close to it en route with supplies for the garrison manning Hadrian’s Wall, and quite possibly glimpsed it as they trekked to and from their Lakeland fort at Hardknott.

      Close contact with Man and the Atlantic coast of Britain continued after the Romans retreated. During this time, between the 5th and 8th centuries, it is probable that the Isle of Man featured in the itineraries of many Christian missionaries. St Bridget, St Ninian, St Patrick, St Columba and St Cuthbert all figure in church dedications on the island, so it is not too fanciful to suppose that they must have arrived here at some time during their lifetimes.

      Tower, Rushen Abbey

      The scene altered significantly with the conquest of the island by Vikings. This brought about many changes in ethnic make-up, religion and cultural identity. Although pagan at the outset, the Norse quickly succumbed to the influence of Christianity. This, in turn, fostered the propagation of a unique blend of Celtic and Norse influences. The most notable survivor from this period is the Norse annual open-air assembly, the ‘Thing’, at which new laws were announced and disputes settled. In the Norse language, the place for a meeting was a vollr, hence Thing-vollr, has become Tynwald, the island’s unique focus of government.

      During this Scandinavian period the Isle of Man became the capital of an island realm – the Kingdom of the Isles – that embraced all the Hebrides, ruled by a Manx king subordinate to Norwegian sovereignty, with its headquarters on St Patrick’s Isle, today linked to Peel by a substantial causeway. In a religious context, this became known as Ecclesia Sodorensis, a separate diocese, its name based on the Norse for Man and the Hebrides (‘the Southern Isles’). In 1266 the Hebrides were ceded to Scotland, heralding the political break-up of the Kingdom of the Isles, but the religious ties continued for much longer and, though long since severed, there is a reminder of this past regime in the title of the Manx Bishop of Sodor and Man.

      For over 100 years, sovereignty of the Isle of Man was disputed between the English and the Scots, with the former ultimately gaining control in 1405 when sovereignty was granted to Sir John Stanley. His descendants – Earls of Derby and Dukes of Atholl – ruled Man for over 300 years, bringing a period of consolidation during which the island became increasingly isolated. This enabled the development of its own form of government, language and personal names. Trade was not encouraged, indeed strictly regulated, and visitors were kept away. The language of the people was Manx – though the well-to-do and government officials spoke English. Castletown was the capital of the island and the place of the lord’s residence, finally being displaced in favour of Douglas only in 1869.

      During the 17th century, conditions started to change rather radically as ‘the running trade’ – smuggling – took hold. Man’s strategic position, helped by its low custom duties, made it ideal for this form of activity, which grew to such proportions that by the 18th century it became necessary for the British government to ‘take control’ by introducing the Revesting and Mischief Act in 1765. These effectively meant that sovereignty of the island was once more vested in the Crown, and smuggling was curtailed.

      The ‘Revestment’ was a humiliation and an economic disaster for the Manx people, for although Tynwald still remained, it could pass no laws costing money because the customs duties were diverted to the British government. This situation continued until 1866, when the Manx customs revenue was transferred back to the island’s revenue, but with the stipulation that ultimate control over spending should rest with the British Treasury. This situation was only repealed in 1958, since when the island has had the freedom to conduct its own affairs.

Geology and vegetation

      The bulky upland mass of the island is a much-mangled thrust of old slaty rocks, known as the Manx slate series, consisting of clay slates, grits and greywackes, probably Ordovician, rather like the Skiddaw slates of the English Lake District, which also re-appear in the south-west of that region. The slates were refolded several times during the Caledonian mountain-building period and outcrop now in the axis of the island. During this time, the rock mass was penetrated by molten material that formed dykes, most noticeable along the coast, where the slates or grits are exposed.

      During Carboniferous times the limestone that proliferates around Castletown (especially at Scarlett Point) and Port St Mary were laid down. Near Peel, distinctive red sandstone provides an easily workable material for building stone and appears, along with Castletown limestone, in many buildings on the island.

      Solid rocks at surface level are rare, though Carboniferous, Permian and Triassic deposits lie beneath the lowlands at the northern end of the island, covered by glacial drift to a depth of 50m (164ft) or more.

      The Bay at Port Cornaa (Walk 11)

      Three successive glacial periods are thought to have affected the island, with glacial deposits most noticeable in the north, but still significant elsewhere. The ice sheets came mainly from south-west Scotland and north-east Ireland, and boulder clays, along with sands and gravels, are distributed over much of the island.

      An unusual feature of the Manx landscape, something that has existed for centuries, is the almost complete absence of trees. It is clear that when humans first arrived, the coastal lands would have been covered in oak woods, but today trees only occur in the sheltered glens and in recently re-afforested areas.

A wealth of wild flowers

      The immense diversity of habitat on the Isle of Man generates a range of flora and fauna bordering on the spectacular. There are wild flowers throughout the year, from the primroses, celandine, sorrel and wood anemones of spring, when rafts of wild garlic are already filling the air with their pungent smell and bluebells (blue, white and pink in hue) are starting to carpet whatever remaining stands of woodland they can find. Gorse is already in heady, scented bloom come early April, when the delicate coastal squill, sea campion and thrift are also starting to flower. Orchids flourish in June, while the heathers that bring a purple hue to the Manx hillsides start to flower from July onwards.

      Later in the year, into autumn, a few sheltered woodland spots start to produce fungi as the great colour change of the year begins. Throughout the year it is impossible not to notice the luxuriant growth of lichens, mosses and liverworts – clear indicators of a clean and healthy climate.

      Cattle at Port Grenaugh

Birdlife

      The island is well suited to birdlife, and a free leaflet from tourist information centres tells you where to look, and when, for the island’s most interesting species.

      You may be able to spot red-throated, black-throated and great northern