Southeast Asia's Best Recipes. Wendy Hutton

ground turmeric is somewhat acrid compared to the fresh rhizome. Turmeric leaf is used as a herb in some Indonesian and Malaysian dishes; there is no substitute.

      Vietnamese mint or laksa leaf is a pungent herb with dark, narrow green leaves known by a number of names in the West: polygonum (the botanical name), Vietnamese mint, hot mint, long-stemmed mint and laksa leaf. To help avoid any confusion, here are the major local names: Vietnam, rau ram; Thailand, phak phai; Laos, phak pheo; Malaysia daun kesom; Singapore, daun laksa. This distinctively flavored herb is frequently part of a platter of fresh herbs served with noodle soups in Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam and is added to laksa noodle soup in Singapore and some parts of Malaysia. You can strike Vietnamese mint from plants bought in an Asian store if you live in either a hot or temperate climate. Stand a few stems in water in a glass set in a sunny spot (the window sill, perhaps); as soon as you see white roots appearing, plant it in the soil in a sunny position and water frequently.

      Water chestnuts are Chinese vegetable grown in muddy waters. It has an almost milky sweetness and crisp white flesh that retains its delightful texture even after cooking. Rinse well to remove any dirt before peeling, then put into cold water immediately to avoid discoloring. Water chestnuts can be eaten raw or stir-fried. They are minced to add texture and flavor to fillings. They are also added to desserts and sweetmeats, particularly in Thailand.

      Water spinach is a popular and highly nutritious leafy green vegetable that grows in damp areas. It goes by a variety of names, including morning glory, water convolvulus and swamp cabbage. It has hollow stems with pointed, mid-green leaves, which have a soft texture and appealing mild flavor when cooked. Young shoots are frequently eaten raw as part of a salad platter or with a dip, while the leaves and tender stems are usually braised. It does not keep well; wrap in damp newspaper or a cloth and refrigerate for one to two days.

      Tofu (bean curd) was introduced by the Chinese and has become part of the local diet in much of Southeast Asia. The two most commonly used forms are regular or soft tofu, which is reasonably soft and sold in blocks and pressed tofu, which has been compressed to expel most of the moisture and form a solid cake. Soft tofu is generally used in soups and braised dishes, while pressed tofu is normally deep-fried. Silken tofu (Japanese in origin) is very soft; it is found in some cities in the region and either steamed or added to soups, particularly by cooks of Chinese origin. Fresh tofu should be covered with water and refrigerated; it can be kept for several days. Pasteurized tofu is sold in vacuum packs or plastic tubs outside Southeast Asia; refrigerate until the expiry date. Another type of tofu sometimes added to braised dishes or soups is dried deep-fried tofu, which is generally sold in small rectangles. These are often sold on strings in Asia, but are elsewhere usually packed in plastic. They are light and spongy in texture and need to be dipped briefly in boiling water to remove the oil before being used. Dried deep-fried tofu has an almost nutty flavor and is particularly appreciated for the way it soaks up the liquid to which it is added. It can be kept refrigerated for at least two weeks. Dried tofu skin is the dried skin that forms on top of boiling soy milk. It is dried and sold in sheets as a wrapper or sold in thick crinkled strips about 1 1/4 -in/3-cm wide. Tiny squares of salty fermented tofu, often reddish brown on the outside, are sold in jars and used exclusively as a seasoning (especially with pork) and as a condiment which is often served with rice porridge.

      White fungus sometimes called silver fungus, is generally a pale ivory color and very crinkly in appearance, almost like a dried chrysanthemum. It is used mostly in soupy desserts, where it is enjoyed for its slightly chewy texture and translucent appearance. It should be soaked in warm water to reconstitute.

      Wild pepper leaves are sometimes incorrectly called betel leaves in English (cha plu in Thai, bo la lot in Vietnamese, pak i leut in Lao and daun kadok in Malay). They have a pleasant, faintly peppery flavor and are used as a salad herb or, particularly in Thailand and Vietnam, as a food wrapper. These can sometimes be found in Vietnamese food shops and can be kept refrigerated in a cloth for a day or two.

      Winged bean is also known as angled or Goa bean. It has a slight touch of bitterness and a pleasant crisp texture. Look for small young beans which snap rather than bend. Before cooking, pinch the tip and pull down any strings. Winged beans are either eaten raw, usually with a dip, or blanched briefly in boiling water, then sliced to make salads. They can also be stir-fried, but do not over-cook or they will lose their crisp texture.

      Woodear fungus is used for its slightly chewy texture and dark color. Wood or cloud ear fungus literally grows on trees and has virtually no flavor but is added to soups, salads and vegetable dishes. Two varieties of dried wood ear fungus are available: one is small, thin, crinkly and uniformly black, while the other is larger and thicker with a pale grey or beige underside. There is no difference in flavor, but the smaller version is less chewy and reconstitutes more quickly. It keeps almost indefinitely in a covered container on the shelf. Before using, soak the wood ear fungus in warm water until it softens and swells to about five times its dried size. Small thin fungus pieces will take 5 minutes, while thicker pieces need longer. Drain and cut out any hard central portion, then slice or chop according to the recipe.

      Tips and Techniques

      The preparation of various Southeast Asian ingredients (such as shallots, lemongrass, etc) is described in Essential Southeast Asian Ingredients (pages 12–21). Some other important tasks which are a little more complex or take longer to describe are discussed here in greater detail.

      Dry-roasting Grated Coconut This can be done using either fresh or desiccated coconut; the latter will turn golden much more quickly than freshly grated coconut. Put the coconut in a heavy dry wok and put over low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until golden all over, about 8 to 10 minutes for fresh coconut, 3 to 4 minutes for desiccated. Remove immediately and cool completely before storing in an airtight container. Sometimes, roasted coconut is pounded while still hot until it turns into an oily paste.

      Toasting Dried Shrimp Paste Dried shrimp paste is almost always cooked, except in a few Thai dips. Sometimes, it is added raw to other pounded ingredients which are then fried or simmered, but more often, it is cooked on its own before being added to the dish. Even the most ardent shrimp paste lover will agree that it has an incredibly pungent smell during cooking, so to avoid having to do the job too often and to have a stock of cooked dried shrimp paste on hand, I suggest toasting 1 to 2 tablespoons and keeping it in a sealed jar (you seldom need more than 1 teaspoon per recipe). Do not, however, use ready-toasted dried shrimp paste for dips and sambals; the full flavor of freshly cooked shrimp paste is vital for these.

      One of the best ways to cook dried shrimp paste without the smell forcing everyone out of the house is to put the required amount on a piece of foil, folding over a flap and pressing down to make a thin layer. Tuck the edges of the foil in loosely to make a packet, then set this on a wire grill directly over a medium gas flame, or under a broiler or grill. Cook for about 2 minutes, then turn and cook the other side for another couple of minutes. Open the packet to check that the shrimp paste has lost its wet, raw look and smells fragrant. If you don’t have a grill or broiler, you can put the foil package into a wok or nonstick skillet; it may need a little longer to cook.

      Roasted Rice Powder Put 1/4 cup (50 g) of uncooked long-grain rice in a heavy dry wok and put over low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the rice is golden-brown all over, about 8 to 10 minutes. While still hot, transfer to a mortar or spice grinder and grind or process to a sandy texture; do not grind finely as it is important for it to have